Cheap and shonky window replacement best solution?? Query

[Moondog55]

Well it turns out that the aluminium window in the second bedroom was installed without a decent lintel.
Window is 1900 wide and the "Lintel" is an old "4B2" not even on edge and I can see a bow in the window.

We have decided we probably will not be going up a floor but just in case I want to frame up to cover this possibility.
thinking about things this morning and I wonder what is the best solution, to cut out all the shonky work and add new timber studs and jack studs and a proper lintel to suit a 1900 opening or to re-frame for 2 smaller windows and get two "off-the-shelf" awning windows to fill the holes>??
Second part of the question, is there any structural difference or ease of building between the two styles of lintel.
ie lintel under top-plate or lintel over the opening??

Dividing into 2 separate opening does allow the use of standard 90*35 as the lintel, but I happen to have on hand a length of 140*35 F22

[SilentButDeadly]

One lintel is easier to install than two especially in a retrofit. In my situation (similar to yours) I removed the offending dodgy work and completely reframed between top and bottom plates to fit new old windows (five of them plus a door). In all cases the new lintel was directly over the window opening. I think there were some photos in the WIP thread...

[Moondog55]

I agree putting in a single lintel would probably be a lot easier.
Now to do some research and see whether one or two windows is the cheaper option, although i think I prefer two awning windows to a large slider cost will be more important for this room.
Tables give 2 X 140*35 or 2 X 120*45 as the lintel, I couldn't see a substitute size using a deeper section so I assume it needs to be doubled to give resistance to twisting.

[shauck]

what's your roof load width, rafter spacing, roofing material, are you N1/N2 or N3 (I'm assuming not cyclonic - Geelong)

[Moondog55]

what's your roof load width, rafter spacing, roofing material, are you N1/N2 or N3 (I'm assuming not cyclonic - Geelong)

Room is

3000mm 450mm Sheet N2 ( at least i think it is N2)
One of the reasons I ask is that the local< Mitre 10> said they could do a much better price on certain sizes as it is slow moving and they have a little too much stock of some of the deeper sections in short ,lengths of 190*45 <2400mm

[shauck]

I'm looking at F17 Seasoned hardwood (there is no F22 in the span table).
single or upper story, load bearing walls. (no span table for lower story)
RLW 3000 (although you said that was the room size so not absolutely sure that is your RLW).
600 rafter spacing (no 450 in table).
Sheet roof, N1/N2

190x45 will span 3300.

2/90x35 will just span 1900

140x35 will span 2300 probably a good choice seeing as you have it already. That is to say, assuming your RLW is 3000.

[Moondog55]

RLW is much less than 3000 but that is the smallest option in the set of tables I have, my tables say a 140*35 needs to be doubled to span that gap as as lower story.
If I could substitute a deeper section and not double up was really my question, I framed the query badly

[shauck]

Not sure what span tables you are using but mine are AS1684.2 2010 I'm looking at F17 seasoned hardwood

and sorry, yes you were also looking for lower of two story building.The span tables for lower story, load bearing wall were further down in the list.

The info needed is roof load width and upper floor load width. The table is divided into FLW - 1500/4500/7500. Then the columns under these three are UFLW - 1800/3600/4800.

If you are, for example, FLW 1500 and UFLW 1800 and wish to achieve a single member to span 1900 -

140x45 - 1900 span
170x35 - 2100 span
190x35 - 2400 span
190x45 - 2600 span
and so on.

To get your roof load width, I THINK, will be based on the roof you intend to put on the upper storey and the floor load width would be your current ceiling and whatever you do to make it an upper floor.

I would appreciate it if someone would confirm this please.

[Cecile]

We've got a different set of tables, AS 1684.4 1999, 2002 revision, Table A50, F27

[Moondog55]

Yeah I really should wear my glasses when reading , but it seems as if there is no aditional table of substitute sizes to replace a vertically laminated 2X ****

Not that it really matters, we probably will never go up a second floor as there appears to be no way to avoid the cost of scaffolding, and that appears to be the major cost.

[shauck]

Doesn't your span table have both single and doubled choices in the same table? You should update your span tables. I'm noticing a few differences between what mine say and what others' older versions say.

Needing scaffolding depends on if you lay a sheet floor first. I just built a place with an upper mezzanine and a 45 degree pitched roof using only ladders. The gable ends and ridge and rafters and all the rest was done from upper floor.

I have bought scaffolding too and it works out cheaper than hiring it if you have it for a long term job. I bought it for a painting job that took a few months and I found it really great. I did a fair bit of searching before buying this one. The company is Mr Scaffold. It's commercial grade but not the really thick aluminium. Need to take care with it and not suitable for brickies or to be lent to rough and careless people.

[Moondog55]

Well I just re-framed the old window.
I cut the original wall studs and retro-fitted a 90*45 on the outside of each and used a 140*35 F27 doubled as the lintel.
With 90*45 header
So it is now strong enough to support a second floor even though we will probably not go up; it is a nice feeling knowing we can if we ever win the lottery
Thanks Su, it was actually easier than I thought except for the actual mass of those 2 lintel beams, luckily a friend came down from Melbourne and helped me lift
brought the sill height up to 1100 from the floor and hole for a standard window

[shauck]

Cool. Glad it wasn't too hard a job. Good luck with the lottery.

[Moondog55]

Sometimes I just "Think" too hard, just getting in and doing the job is often a lot easier.

Going to use 3 X M12 bolts and washers tho; to join those two lintels together, old timber and nails and glue may not be enough to keep them laminated.
A little packing and then I box with plywood sheathing.

My builder mate did point out that timber has a much lower "R" value than the bulk insulation, so there will be a cool spot near the ceiling compared to the rest of the wall, another argument in favour of 140mm deep studs