Laying Yellowtongue over existing floor - Can I do this?

[Bill108]

I have an existing timber floor in the sunroom that is about 80mm lower than the rooms surrounding it.
In general would there be any issues if I placed say 60mm batons on top of the existing timber flooring then yellow tongue particleboard on top to bring it up to the same level as the other rooms?

Or do I need to remove the existing flooring first? The existing flooring is timber that structurally appears to be quite solid.

The final floor covering is going to be floating floorboards if that makes a difference.

[SilentButDeadly]

No issues that i can think of (apart from window & door heights). Given your location I'd consider some form of insulation between the battens before you fit the yellow tongue...

[Bloss]

No issues that i can think of (apart from window & door heights). Given your location I'd consider some form of insulation between the battens before you fit the yellow tongue...

:whs: As to insulation if you used foil (sisalation or similar) straight over old floor that would help - not strictly the best way, but would add quite a bit of R-value at low cost with the air gap above..

[Oldsaltoz]

Just a thought.

Is there any chance the floor could ever get wet?

Chipboard and moisture can lead to disaster.

Good luck. :)

[Bloss]

Yellowtongue (& Structafloor variants) and any chip-based, even MDF used as flooring is water resistant (some isn't!) but all if coated with polyurethane or other good quality coating can be as good as any timber floor - the appearance is a matter of taste - I quite like it. But like any timber floor if you allow the coating to wear ie: do not maintain it properly, or allow water ingress at high levels for a long time then it will damage the timber. Same issue arises for engineered flooring, regular timber floors, cork and so on. The general rule is that timber and water should not be in contact for too long as timber does not like water. In this case the flooring will have no weather exposure before coating so a light sand and clean is all that is needed before coating - unlike what was said in another thread, the surfaces are resin impregnated to waterproof, not 'waxed' - the coating needs sanding to key the coating, but does not need removing. Note that there is a pre-sanded version available for this type of use, but would normally be a special order.

[Bill108]

Thanks for your comments everyone, much apprecieated.


No issues that i can think of (apart from window & door heights).
Thanks for raising that. Windows are quite large and will be fine, and the doors are all at the level of the surrounding rooms anyhow, so it wont affect them.



:whs: As to insulation if you used foil (sisalation or similar) straight over old floor that would help - not strictly the best way, but would add quite a bit of R-value at low cost with the air gap above..
I hadnt considered laying foil as well. I did think that the extra layer of timber would improve the insulation anyway, but will consider adding foil into the mix.


Just a thought.
Is there any chance the floor could ever get wet?

Other than someone spilling a drink, no.


Yellowtongue (& Structafloor variants) and any chip-based, even MDF used as flooring is water resistant (some isn't!) but all if coated with polyurethane or other good quality coating can be as good as any timber floor - the appearance is a matter of taste - I quite like it.
I was thinking of laying floating floorboards over the top eventually, floor coverings is going to be close to the end of the entire project.