Allowable span and cantilever , point loads and paranoia

[Moondog55]

OK
Just re-framed for the window and I cheated a little with the distance between stud centres.
I have 670 between centres and the more I look at the distance the less I like what I've done.

There is a lapped join in the top plate corner ( common practice in the 50's?? ) and a rafter sitting 90mm away from the check-out for the stud I removed and 55mm away from the new stud, well within the allowable cantilever I think, what concerns me is the other rafter sitting 170mm away from the lapped join in the corner.

As I see it I have two options.
just add a short 90*45 in the left-hand corner to support the top plate a little or put in a supporting member spanning the 620mm gap.

90*45 ? 90*35 on edge?
Combination of both?
I'll do it now before I get the plaster on and it is finished and I'll feel better.
Comments? Advice?

[Bloss]

Just whack a block on each stud if you want or a nogging against the underside and a couple of blocks to hold it up, but is that ply staying in place and is it nailed to that top plate - in which case don't do anything.

[Moondog55]

Cecile does say I worry too much; I guess my tendency to overbuild is probably to do with living in earthquake areas in the past.
Yes, that braceply is permanent
The Brisbane Ranges has a fault line running parallel but it hasn't slipped in an age and the local volcanoes are quiescent ( dormant but definitely not extinct ) so I guess just a block in the corner because I have an offcut and putting it in will make my little nagging voice shut-up

[Gaza]

1 question why are you not using Termite treated pine?

when you say 670mm gap if doing studs at 600mm centers the gap is 580mm, a 670mm gap is a heap more.

we only do 450mm stud centers for timber framing but 600 centers for light steel

[Moondog55]

Gaza we are in Norlane, (Geelong ) very heavy acid clay soil and NO TERMITES, so LOSP being almost twice the cost we use ordinary MGP 10 /12
If it isn't needed we don't use it.
I use some LOSP for garden furniture and still use H4 for posts.
To clarify
It is because the stud spacing was greater than 450//600 centres that I asked the question. \C2C is 670mm gap is 620mm.
If you see any LOSP treated pine in any of our photos ( usually as lintels ) it is because I raid the scaps bim at M-10 and get it free or very very cheap as off-cuts

[Moondog55]

Just because I could.
Even given your advice and Knowledge Bloss I feel better in myself knowing it is twice as strong as needed, being in the corner of the house and all.
I added a 90*45 noggin and a couple of shorts to hold the noggin in place.
This old hardwood is tough, the cut edge feels like diamond and the carbide blade had a little trouble cutting though it, the self driving screw stripped the internal drive hex when screwing the new noggin to the top plate.

[Bloss]

Just whack a block on each stud if you want or a nogging against the underside and a couple of blocks to hold it up, but is that ply staying in place and is it nailed to that top plate - in which case don't do anything.
mmm - I thought I offered that solution . . . :? it's always OP's call :cool:

[Moondog55]

Yep you did. But you also said it wasn't needed, it was the not needing it that I was referring to, not the noggin part.
It is now more than twice as strong as it needs to be, nothing exceeds like excess.

[Moondog55]

Given the recent events ( past few years that is ) with the collapse of various verandas and decks and roofs flying off in a light breeze perhaps I am not over building at all, just adding an extra safety margin, plus a bit; just in case the worst happens.