Lintel or other solution for skillion roof?

[Mark22]

Hi
I am building an extension that has a skillion sheet roof off the side of our house. Where the rafters(probeams) are to be attached there is an existing lintel that I can attach joist hangers to and double studs at other points. This is the case for all but 2 of the probeams, each of which both end up between 2 studs(at 450mm) at different points of the wall . Do I need a lintel between the 2 studs to attach the joist hanger to, or is there another solution? If a lintel is the best solution what size lintel would be needed.
Thnaks, mark

[barney118]

Not exactly sure what you are trying to explain, a picture photo will help. Need to know some measurements of the roof span extension span etc roof type.

[Moondog55]

Rather than use an existing lintel would you not be better off and much easier using a new ledger of the correct size??

[Mark22]

Not exactly sure what you are trying to explain, a picture photo will help. Need to know some measurements of the roof span extension span etc roof type.

Photo is side of extension where probeams attach. Probeam 1 sits on top plate of new section of frame of extension. Probeams 2 and 4 attach between the studs. Probeam 3 will attach to existing lintel above window. There are more probeams in this section(6), but picture is simplified to show what I mean.

Extension is 5.3mx3m. Other end of probeams (3m span) attach to new framed wall on fence line. Steel sheet roofing material.

Thanks for your help, hope this makes it clearer.

[Gaza]

i would bolt an LVL along the length of the wall the same depth as your i beams ie 300mm or 240mm.

screw off woth coach screws to every stud,

then hang the I beams with joist hangers.

using ledger like moondog said is another option but this will need to be boxed out when sheeting the wall.

[Mark22]

i would bolt an LVL along the length of the wall the same depth as your i beams ie 300mm or 240mm.

screw off woth coach screws to every stud,

then hang the I beams with joist hangers.

using ledger like moondog said is another option but this will need to be boxed out when sheeting the wall.

Thanks Gaza, scuse my ignorance but what does LVL stand for and what width/material would you use? Would this pass inspection?
cheers, Mark

[barney118]

Mark, I would use a 90x45 ledger coach screwed to each vertical stud and put your rafter ontop using a Uni tie or triple grip. Have you had plans approved? As I am not sure what council will think of building a roof to the fence/ boundary line. It becomes a fire hazard, generally council make you set back 900mm. I was building one and they were inspecting for a DA rear deck and I was pulled up and they wouldn't pass my DA even though it had nothing to do with it. I would also hate that a fire broke out and your insurance company refused to pay for a structure that cased it.


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[Mark22]

Thanks Barney, plans are all approved and indicated a lintel, so that's why I was wondering if there was another solution. I was also curious to know whether making a change from the plan needs to be signed off by the surveyor before going ahead. Wall along fence is clad in ezylite panels and has 60/60/60 fire rating. The probeams are laminted ply and tapered, so plaster sheet can be fixed directly to the underside of them, maximising ceiling height. If I used a ledger this would need to be boxed in and I would prefer not to have this in the room.
cheers, Mark

[Moondog55]

When using a ledger for our skillion roof extension in Northcote we just ran the ceiling plaster to the inside edge of the ledger, no problems at all, does not need "boxing in" the rafters or joists meet the bottom edge of the ledger after all and any cosmetic gap is covered by the cornice.

[barney118]

Mark, I am slowly getting the info needed now. :D Lucky you with regards to the building to the fenceline, councils can be a real PITA. The question now is focusing on the how these rooms are connecting, on your dwg you have openings at 1400? correct? Where you connect onto the right side of photo, you dont need a lintle if this is a wall, I would screw using bugle heads the rafter to the studs (what spacing is the rafters?) and install a 400mm block under the rafter nailed to the stud as you wont see this when you sheet., there is an existing lintle above the window, which I assume is being removed, use a joist hanger on here. Will need to put a new lintle here if opening up this section wider than the existing window.
On the left of your photo this is where you need a lintle to carry the existing roof across the opening which loos like it is there.