How to attach iron roofed addition under eaves and what flashings?

[Jonesy_SA]

Hi all,
My house was built in 1960 and additions added later. Namely the rear veranda was bricked up into a 'sleep out' and an extra room added to the front of the house. With the recent heavy rains i have filled a few buckets in the front room; an inspection revealing quite a few rust fractures in the iron.
I'm a bit stumped on what and how to do a few things. (ill take a better photo soon)
- The current roof has only a slight pitch and where it meets brick work there is no flashings at all, should there be?
- Where the iron travels under the eaves it does not appear to be properly fastened down. This doesn't seem such a big issue in the area to the left of the photo as the distance from the last tek screw to the wall isn't too large and the shave of CGI probably keeps that section partly supported. However the final sheet at the far end of the photo only has the odd tek screw on bad angle the the distance from the wall to line of tek screws is quite large?

Should there be flashing of some sort where it meets the masonry, and how on earth do you attached the iron in these sections under the eaves? Ideally i don't want to remove the tiles and eaves to gain access (the eaves are most likely asbestos).

Thanks

[olmeri]

Hello Jonesy

A mate commented on your problem and pic ... the water coming into your sleepout is probably coming from the gutter overflowing and then flowing back across the top of your roof where it meets the wall. The pitch is much too flat for corro which contributes to the problems.

I will try to describe all - maybe you could see your local sheet metal bloke and get some flashings custom made to do something like this.

First flashing - Upside down "L". Take the gutter off and flash behind it - up over the side beam or whatever is behind it, and down behind the gutter area.

Next one ... "L" shaped with a bent down bit on the base leg, put the long end of the "L" up behind the previously installed gutter flashing a good 50mm or so, down to the line of the roof, out 100mm or so, then a bend at the end which will need to be scribed down into the profiles of the corro.

You will need to used a closed cell foam inlay sponge behind the bend that is scribed into the corro.

The whole shebang can be held onto the roof sheets with teks.

Hope this helps.

[cyclic]

The first thing you need to do is get rid of the corrugated roof and replace it with a deck that is good for 1 degree fall, Stramit Speed Deck or similar, then you can fit apron flashing back to the wall under the eaves and bent down or scribed into the roof pan.

Yes, it is awkward but not impossible.

I would suggest you then run a downpipe from the internal angle of the gutter along the pan or rib to the outer gutter to try and get all water from the gutter to the outside of the habitable area where it can overflow if need be and cause no problems.

[goldie1]

You could probably fix screws in under the eave with a 90 degree drill chuck

[Bloss]

The first thing you need to do is get rid of the corrugated roof and replace it with a deck that is good for 1 degree fall, Stramit Speed Deck or similar, then you can fit apron flashing back to the wall under the eaves and bent down or scribed into the roof pan.

Yes, it is awkward but not impossible.

I would suggest you then run a downpipe from the internal angle of the gutter along the pan or rib to the outer gutter to try and get all water from the gutter to the outside of the habitable area where it can overflow if need be and cause no problems.

:whs: - you could also simply re-roof leaving the existing in place which would be less disruptive, but the concern would be the condition of the framing under that extension roof so best would be to get a design sketched up to replace it (and there is room there to increase the pitch anyway) and fully replace - again with a profile better suited to low angles.

[Jonesy_SA]

Hi all,
Regarding the leaks - I Do not believe the gutters are overflowing back onto the roof and in light to medium rain the water is building up and seeping between the masonry and end of sheets. I went crazy with silicon and the rust fractures and with the rain we have had since it hasn't leaked.

Finally got around to measuring the pitch. I didn't have any useful tool to do it so used an app on my iPhone that's meant to be reasonably accurate. Either way it's not greater than 5 degrees and I believe it is closer to 3 degree. Therefore the CGI is out and a deck such as Strammit Speed deck, Stratco topdek 700 etc is in.
The advantage of these concelled type decks is they use a clip that screws onto the framing and then the sheets clip on top. With a 90degree attachment for my drill I think I could just get the screws in.
The disadvantage is I havnt been able to find any pre-scribes flashings for these sheets and the turn up/turn down tool isn't cheap!!

Ideally I would like to increase the pitch but I havnt found amy resources on how to do this type of framing or go about the job. I though about simply running another length of timber over the current and then decreasing in size as it approaches the gutter.

[cyclic]

Hi all,
Regarding the leaks - I Do not believe the gutters are overflowing back onto the roof and in light to medium rain the water is building up and seeping between the masonry and end of sheets. I went crazy with silicon and the rust fractures and with the rain we have had since it hasn't leaked.

Finally got around to measuring the pitch. I didn't have any useful tool to do it so used an app on my iPhone that's meant to be reasonably accurate. Either way it's not greater than 5 degrees and I believe it is closer to 3 degree. Therefore the CGI is out and a deck such as Strammit Speed deck, Stratco topdek 700 etc is in.
The advantage of these concelled type decks is they use a clip that screws onto the framing and then the sheets clip on top. With a 90degree attachment for my drill I think I could just get the screws in.
The disadvantage is I havnt been able to find any pre-scribes flashings for these sheets and the turn up/turn down tool isn't cheap!!

Ideally I would like to increase the pitch but I havnt found amy resources on how to do this type of framing or go about the job. I though about simply running another length of timber over the current and then decreasing in size as it approaches the gutter.

For turn up-turn down you can usually hire the tool from the sheet supplier or you can slot a piece of hardwood with a power saw and use it.

There are no pre-scribed flashings, simply buy a pair of Wiss snips and a pencil. Mark the sheets and scribe as necessary.

You will be able to mark the flashing at the upper roof gutter line, cut to suit then push into place.

If you cannot screw the flashing under the eaves use some Sika 221 against the brick/render.

Roof pitchs are 1 degree= 1 in 60, ie 1mm in 60 mm out of level,

3 degrees= 1 in 18, ie 1mm in 18 mm or 100mm in 1800 and so on and so on.