bath spout lug not far enough out of wall

[ajm]

folks, i have seen on here a thread about not having enough of the brass lug for a bath spout to attach onto sticking out from the tiles. now its happened to me. we have a lovely big new bath spout to put in the new bathroom but do not have enough of the half inch brass connection sticking out from the tiles to actually connect it. can you get extenders of some sort ?

[Overkill]

You should be able to find an adaptor at Bunnings but they are usually several cm long and your fitting might not screw flush to the wall. If the plumbing was done recently I would get the plumber back in to put it right at his expense. This sort of thing seems quite common, I've seen it in the last three places I have lived in.

[METRIX]

Bunnings sell a brass adapter which has a female thread on one side and a male thread on the other side, it is about 5cm long, cost about $4, [plumbers supplies will also sell them]
This will fix your problem, and yes it is a very common problem, plumbers don't leave enough of the fitting sticking out.

Dry fit it first to see it does not fowl your bath spout, if all good, best of to use one of the non hardening solutions to keep it water tight rather than a bit of thread tape [also available at bunnings or plumbers supplies]

[plum]

That would be right, blame it on the plumber, ever thought it may be the tiler packing studs out, thus making the finished wall thicker. A nipple extension should fix it up though. :roll:

[METRIX]

Ahh, so now it's the carpenters fault for not putting the studs in straight to start with ? :U

I think we should just blame the tiler, as there's none of them on this thread, and when they do turn up, just blame it all on the sparky, LOL

[Overkill]

Its obviously the architect's fault for not specifying everything down to the last mm

[ajm]

thanks to all you responsible adults for your answers. it was actually my doing as i placed the pipes where i wanted them. mind you, i really think its my kids' fault as they wanted a bath when we already had a perfectly fine shower. i think we are covered for a few years now as they can't even read yet, let alone defend their reputation.:D

[heavytrevy]

There are 3 differant sizes for the extension, measure first to make sure u get the right 1. Being a Tiler I always carry a cpl plus tap extensions .

Regards

[Overkill]

Sorry to hijack the conversation, but what is meant by 'packing out the studs' while tiling and why would a tiler need to do that? I'm getting close to to renovating tiled areas and coordinating the tradies to place things right for the next guy would be handy to know.

[ajm]

There are 3 differant sizes for the extension, measure first to make sure u get the right 1. Being a Tiler I always carry a cpl plus tap extensions .

Regards

well, good old bunnies seemed to stock only one that i could see. its 50mm long and only threaded half way. i need only half of that so was going to try threading the rest and then cutting off the excess. that said, i think i am screwed anyway. the spout we have is meant to sit flush to the tiles. with an extension, any extension, i have to somehow get the nut back behind the tiles. now, i presently have about 2mm of the damn thing protruding from the tiles, so I am going to have to somehow cut off a bit of it to allow the nut of the extension to be recessed when attached. How is one supposed to do that!

Overkill, I think "packing out the studs" refers to applying thicker tile glue than required to flatten out a wall that isn't plum. sort of like when they bed the floor to flatten it or to add a slight fall to the drain.

[JB1]

I had this issue with retiling my shower.

Old tiles were say 5mm thick, the new ones where much thicker, so I was a little short.

I didn't realise it was an issue until much later on.

What I did was trim off both the female and male end with a hacksaw and cleaned it up. Crude I know.

As you need to get the female end as flush with the tiles as possible (you can't use the female end with a spanner), I placed 2 nuts on the male extension end and tightened them against each other. I then used a spanner on the nuts and tightened the extension adapter as much as possible.

undo one nut at a time and voila, the female adapter end was quite close to flush... not perfect, but quite good, siliconed it up and then installed the shower outlet elbow.

On a different renovation with a new outlet I saw my plumber shorten the male brass thread using an special bit on a cordless drill... created a perfect flush finish in 30 seconds... better than a hacksaw haha

Ok, back to your problem.

If the hole the tiler has made is big enough, you can use the special drill bit to shorten the thread until it in well behind the tile and install the female extension end flush to tiles. I would cut off as little as the female extension as possible.

[ajm]

JB1: whats the bit called? what does it look like, if you don't have a name?

[JB1]

No idea, but it looks like a professional plumbers type of equipment, a normal person will never need to use it, so it's not going to be at Bunnings.

It looks similar to say the end of a drill chuck key, the edges grinds down the brass thread and I assume there is something in the middle to fit inside the tread and guide it so it doesn't slip out.

Anyway a plumber here will know the name.

it ground down the thread beautifully flush.

[plum]

As far as I know, that tool hasn't been on the market for years, could be wrong, but I asked my suppliers at least ten years ago if they still stocked them but was told the manufacturer went under.

In regards to your problem, what may be possible is to loosen the screws holding the lugged elbow and to pull it through the tiles, from there cut with trusty hacksaw and screw on your m & f socket.

[JB1]

My Plumber was a rookie (but a good one) and the tool looked new.

It looked pretty useful to me and I would assume all plumbers would have one for the fit off, much faster, neater and safer than a hacksaw.

I was admiring his tools and were speaking about tools (also about this said bit) and also shark bit fittings. I've had a few tradies comment on my 18v Panasonic drill, but nothing else of mine as all my other tools are rather ordinary.

[chrisp]

My Plumber was a rookie (but a good one) and the tool looked new.

I'm not a plumber, but the tool sounds very much like a "spot face cutter". Try searching at an engineering machine-shop supplier.

[Bedford]

You need a reamer with a center in it.

But a shorter center than this one.

http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f205/91073-bath-spout-lug-not-far-enough-out-wall-img_1916.jpg

[plum]

My Plumber was a rookie (but a good one) and the tool looked new.

It looked pretty useful to me and I would assume all plumbers would have one for the fit off, much faster, neater and safer than a hacksaw.

I was admiring his tools and were speaking about tools (also about this said bit) and also shark bit fittings. I've had a few tradies comment on my 18v Panasonic drill, but nothing else of mine as all my other tools are rather ordinary.

Possibly a good tool for a rookie :;

[ajm]

how nice is my plumber? he has got his offsider dropping the bit into me in the morning on the way to his first job. thats service for you. hopefully, i can encourage him to do the job for me for a six pack (or maybe a cooked breakfast considering the time of day). if not, i pray that you all do not see a post later this week asking how to replace a lug without ripping out a newly tiled wall and without admitting to the boss that mistakes were made. she is becoming less forgiving now that the weather has gone brass monkeys on us.

[mike_perth]

Your plumbing supplier will have one - they are blue and I cant remeber who makes them (mines in the shed and its too cold!!)

They arnt cheap though about $60 but they have a thing to catch the brass swarf which is removeable to get into spaces like this.

[Overkill]

You shouldn't have any trouble using the tool. Brass cuts differently to other metals; it will suck in a sharp cutting tool and either jam it or ruin the part. You want to use light pressure and no lubricant, probably a medium to low speed. If the brass fitting is cutting slowly, increase the speed rather than the pressure.

[mike_perth]

Yeah use it dry medium speed no pressure and youll be fine it really is eay to use and fast at cutting.

Try to keep it square so the thread starts more cleanly when threading on your adaptor/tap