Height of window/bench behind cooktop

[JB1]

Hi,

I'm building a new house and will use a 650mm high fixed window as behind my cooktop.

This is a type of design I want

91128

Now I gotta advise the carpenter how high I want the window to be installed.

I will have the std 900mm height bench tops.

I will be having solid timber flooring on ply, so say 30mm.

So would 930mm be the correct height from the slab, or should it be slightly lower 910mm or 920 to account for the frame?


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[BaysideNana]

JB I have a similar window in my kitchen, although it's a sliding window and the electric cooktop is along the other leg of the L bench. Anyway they stuffed up on my window height too...the sill was supposed to be level with the Caesarstone bench (finished) as I had arranged with the stoney to continue the CS inside the window frame, now there is a 30mm raised piece of CS as a window sill. The stoney also said this is a common mistake and he could use thicker/thinner filler pieces in the window frame as required. Fortunately it looks OK and just one of the many stuffups!

Anyway the measurements they used were similar to yours (and they still got it wrong)....finished cupboard height+bench thickness (flooring not included in this case as cupboards were fitted directly to concrete slab and porcelain floor tiles laid 'after' kitchen installed).

Btw, you'll love the bench window lets so much light into the kitchen, and in my case, sun during winter as that window faces north. It's something people love or hate, mostly the latter because it's something new, but something I will definitely repeat in the next kitchen.

Hope this helps?
:D


....edited to add the my bench window is 600mm high, not that it makes much difference!~

[JB1]

Yes it certainly does help.

So your window was mounted too high? Do you mind taking a photo of it for me.

I was sure 930mm was correct, now I'm not so sure..

Hopefully I won't regret cleaning the window all the time, but mine was necessary, as my kitchen has little if any natural light.

Maybe I'll mount it 910mm (880mm + 30mm floorboard), to account for the 20mm Caesar Stone, so you see less of the window frame.

[Cecile]

Just curious to know whether window glass will meet the requirement for non-combustible surface behind the cooktop (and yes, I know that glass doesn't burn). Do you need a specific type of glass, eg 6mm toughened/laminated etc?

What looks great might actually not be compliant. Expert's comments?

[JB1]

I think it's not the glass they are worried about, it's what is behind the splashback they are concerned about.

I.e. behind glass Splashback you need fireproof sheeting to protect plaster/timber studs etc. there is no requirement for tiles.


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[chrisp]

The latest issue of "Energy Safe" (a magazine produced by Energy Safe Victoria) has a relevant question in this issue's "Gas Q&A" section. The issue can be found on line at http://www.esv.vic.gov.au/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=3p_5XdKgnIc%3d&tabid=404&mid=2135

For the time poor (and the just-plain-lazy :) ), the relevant Q&A is:


What material can I use behind the splashback for the gas cooker I am installing?

The splashback material you are using will determine whether a fire resistant board is required on the wall.
» Ceramic tiles: Gyprock walls are satisfactory if you are using ceramic tiles as the splashback.
» Stainless steel: Where the clearance to the nearest burner is less than 200mm then the wall behind the stainless steel splashback must be fire resistant.
» Toughened glass: As with stainless steel, where the clearance to the nearest burner is less than 200mm then the wall behind the toughened glass splashback must be fire resistant.

Refer to ESV’s Gas Information Sheet No. 3 for a list of these materials and their suppliers. Also refer to ESV’s Gas Information Sheet No. 6 that provides details of stainless steel or glass on walls near gas cookers.

Refer to Domestic cooking appliance, AS5601: 2004 Clause 5.12.1.

[METRIX]

These types of things can and will always go wrong, because you are dealing with a chippy, a flooring supplier, a window supplier and a kitchen maker, and it doesn't take much to get it wrong.
My suggestion would be to get your chippy to allow a little more clearance in the framework , and make sure you have the window installed before the kitchen guys comes and does a check measure.

This way if something is wrong the window can be moved slightly to allow for correct height, this needs to be done before any brickwork is done on the outside because the brickwork is cut to suit where the window is, and cannot be changed once done.

Steps to get it done.

1] Explain to your chippy exactly what you want to achieve, ie: CS going over the sill
2] Find out EXACTLY what the flooring height will be, is it 28, 30 or 35mm, and let the chippy know this
3] Find out exactly what the kitchen height will be, should be 900mm, so add this to the floor level, then subtract for the bottom sill and allow for glue etc and possibly a few mm for mistakes
4] Get the chippy to install and level the window
5] Get the kitchen guys in tho check measure and confirm it will work
6] If all good let chippy know, then commit to brickwork

One thing you need to check, if the window happens to get broken, is the CS going to interfere with replacing the glass / rubber seals in the future ?, you would need to speak to the window supplier re this.
Also ensure the back of the CS which will be going over the sill is polished, as you will see this from the outside of the house

Note, The kitchen carcases can be adjusted higher or lower to suit a small discrepancy, but not too much or you will notice the difference in height as it wont be what you are used to.

[JB1]

Hi Metrix Building

You have great points, especially about getting access to replace broken glass. I think that the main thing.

I think what I'll do is get the window on site, have a look at it and then make an decision about how I want it.

Basically, I want it exactly like the attached photo.

It appears that you can still replace the glass without affecting the benchtop, you also won't need to polish the stone as it won't be seen from the outside in.

It's going to be a guess at best, I was set on 18mm solid flooring on top of ply, but the carpenter insist that 13mm direct stick on concrete is the way to go... that's is going to be like a 12 mm difference..

I can always get the cabinet maker (have yet even spoke to one) to make the bench 910 or 915mm high if required.