View Full Version : Replacing A single floor board
10th Feb 2008, 08:32 PM
I pulled the tiles up in the kitchen this weekend and found a couple of things that need attention before the floor can be sanded for polishing... one of which is a board that has split and has had a repair done to it by nailing a thin strip of metal over the top of it...
I remember seeing on here a thread where someone described in detail how best to get a section of a floor board out and put a new one in, i remember you have to remove the bottom of the groove but thats about it... I've spent an hour searching and can't find the thread again... If someone happens to have a link to it, or if someone can describe the process againt hat would be greatly appreciated...
10th Feb 2008, 09:06 PM
ok its fairly simlple
to remove the old board
drill a hole at either end of the damaged area.
cut across the board with a jig saw or similar (make sure it is square)
cut along the length of the board (to make it into 2 peices)
simply lif teach pice out or push them threw underneath.to install the new board
check the width in older houses the boards were often a diferent size used now so you might have to go to a demolisher or timber recycler to get a new board
cut the board to exactly the right length.
sand or file a slight tapper on either end so it will slip in easily.(they can be cut on a angle to start with
remove the bottom edge of the grove side.(you can also remove the tung if you wish)
place the new board on the floor next to the hole.
lift the grove side slightly and slide it into the hole.
push the tung into the grove in the existing board.(this dosent matter if you removed the tung) tap with a hammer if it wont go easily
once the tung is located push down on the grove side untill it is flush with the floor. (tap with hammer if necisary)
if you dont understand any of these steps then please let me know n i will explain better.
10th Feb 2008, 10:19 PM
Cheers, that all sounds pretty straight forward, much appreciated
10th Feb 2008, 10:20 PM
it is realy easy
just make sure you make it the right length and dont split the grove on the other board.
10th Feb 2008, 10:55 PM
weisyboy has explained it quite well but don't forget the cleats. It is usual to cut the faulty board off flush with the floor joist at each end and nails cleats to the floor joists to support the ends of the replacement board.
11th Feb 2008, 12:15 AM
This might help in some way.
11th Feb 2008, 09:48 AM
i forgot to mention that.
it is best to cut of each board flush with the joists and chisel so that a little bit away so the end sits on the joist
11th Feb 2008, 10:18 AM
Thanks for the pics Dusty and the other tips, I'll give it a go at lunch time today... will post a pic of my disaster once im done... hehe
11th Feb 2008, 02:09 PM
Jobs done... spot the replaced board... thanks for all your help, those pics were particulary good thanks Dusty...
Its a bit creaky so i might beef up the supports by the 2 end joists, the board is only just on them because of where the nails were... Also the top of the groove on the black board on the bottom side of the replace ment cracked and came away, annoying but not the end of the world the floor is old-ish cypress and as I am preparing the floor i can already see its going to need a bit of filler....
Man that black tar stuff stunk when using the circular saw, had to put a mask on...
22nd Jun 2009, 09:34 PM
Exactly what I needed. I am currently matching in some boards on a floor - and I am having a problem with the long cut up the boards. The cut pieces are pushing down and jamming the blade - I think I need to make sure the base of the circular saw sits across the stable boards either side? Or maybe make the cut a bees dick short of the depth of the board and just break it after the cut has finished?
22nd Jun 2009, 10:16 PM
just take it slow when cutting you dont wnat the saw to jam and kick back.
It happened to me once and i ended up having to change about 6 boards. that was a pain in the BUTT.
i normal use a festool plunge saw to do this these days it makes nice clean cuts and the rail keeps it straght.
29th Jun 2009, 05:33 PM
Thanks for the advice, took it easy and didn't panic - all looks good so far.
Finished photos to come.
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