Can we avoid digging into roof/ removing tiles to add fan to room with lights

[peterdeck]

Hi there, I have a number of halogen 12V downlights in a cathedral ceilling and would like to add a fan. Getting new wiring into this particular ceilling means chopping lots of holes (as they did when they put in the downlights) to get the wire over beams/struts... or, having to take tiles off the roof (Which after the mess last time, I'd certainly try). My question is, is there any way a fan can be added somehow into the existing wiring without having to get another wire up there. I've found fans that can be operated entirely by remote...so a permanently 'on' connection will be fine. But common sense tells me you need a remote for the lights too...is such a thing possible. And can you mix things of different power on one wall switch? Thank you for any help!

[applied]

It Is possible to get remote fans with the light and fan switches on the remote that you fix to the wall in place of the original switch.
However there is a limitation on how much load you would be able to put on this controller they are not really rated for this type of situation.
Your only reliable cost effective option is going to be running a wire for either the fan or lights.
Pulling tiles is probably your best option or a wall split inverter.

[mattski2008]

Hi. At work we use a universal remote kit which can be added to most fans and the max light load that you can put on it is 300w. Although i would only put about 200 max as they don't seem to last as long. If you were lucky enough and the switch wire from the switch to your first light ran past your fan location you wouldn't need to run any cables at all. This is not very likely though. You next best option is to kick a few tiles, possibly as few as 2 and use a tongue to throw a few wires around....
PS what is a wall split inverter.?? AC???

[applied]

Yeah i refering to a split system ac no need for a fan.
But now I think of it I have seen wall mounted fans before They look like a split system knockoff and some even have heating built in there for low ceiling rooms and over beds and rental places they plug into gpos but have remotes and can be installed with two wallmates and screws

[peterdeck]

Hi. At work we use a universal remote kit which can be added to most fans and the max light load that you can put on it is 300w. Although i would only put about 200 max as they don't seem to last as long. If you were lucky enough and the switch wire from the switch to your first light ran past your fan location you wouldn't need to run any cables at all. This is not very likely though. You next best option is to kick a few tiles, possibly as few as 2 and use a tongue to throw a few wires around....
PS what is a wall split inverter.?? AC???

So, if the fan is the first item on the (red?) wire from the switch...which is actually easily done as it happens... and this fan is controlled by a remote...then I can see that when the switch is on, the fan will be able to be on/off (by remote) and all the lights will be on. But if the switch is off at the wall, then surely the fan would be off as well as all the lights? OR have I missed something? Or are you saying that you could use a remote to turn on/off the lights and another remote to turn on/off the fan?

[peterdeck]

Are you saying that one of those remote/receiver combinations that is used to control a fan with inbuilt light, could be used to control the fan and external lights... as long as those lights are less than 300W..which is no prob as the downlights are only 50W a pop

[applied]

That's what he has suggested the remote controlls both the fan and the lights internal or external doesn't really matter so long as you stay at or below 200w or so as they are cheap solid state devices and are not intended for that purpose. 12v downlights with 50 watt globes are closer to 65watt draw with losses accounted for.

[mattski2008]

This is very basic pic of what we mean. This pic does not indicate any earthing which is a must!!!!!!