Hi all. I have a merbau rail running along the top of a half wall on my deck. I let it weather for a few months then applied flood spa & deck as per instructions. As you can see from the photos, I'm still experiencing tannin leaching onto the wall under it.

Is there something else I can use to coat the timber keeping in mind it is not decking and won't have any foot traffic etc? Maybe a polyurethane clear coat or something?

I posted this in the decking section as you guys seem to be the merbau experts.

Thanks!

Our property is on 1:3 gradient all over. After rain we have water coming out of the ground in several places flowing down the hill. Toward the back of the house when I dug a hole for a post the hole half filled with water overnight - and that was a dry spell!

i laid a concrete path (hand mixed in a mixer) down the side of the house about six months ago and it rained that night. Within a day or two a gravelly patch developed which progressively got worse until it was about 300mm square and is just loose gravel as though the cement has been washed out. Now every time it rains and when the concrete has dried out this patch continues the have a damp strip running away from it down hill (actually sideways across to the edge of the path as that's the way the path drains)

If I have water bubbling up from underneath when it rains (and for some time after) what would be the best way to repair this spot? There is an ag drain down the side of the path and I laid plastic under but I think this section may be at a join.

Hey All,

Currently re-plastering a bathrooms/laundry/toilet after water damage and frame/rot.

Frame has been replaced, and I'm going to use Aquacheck for the wall linings of these areas. House is built on concrete slab.

I'm trying to figure out how to do the wall/floor junctions in these areas. The walls will end up being painted.

From what I can gather form the CSR installation manuals, I need to use PVC flashing angle @ 75 x 50mm, glue one side down to the slab using Fulaprene 303 Adhesive, with the other side (vertical) just "resting" on the bottom plate of the stud wall. I then mount the Aquacheck 6mm above the bottom of the flashing and apply water proofing membrane over this joint, approx 150mm on the vertical and 150mm in the horizontal direction?

Does this sound right? Do I fill the 6mm gap between the Aquacheck and the PVC flashing with the CSR wet area sealant?


Cheers,
Dave

:o

Volvo Trucks - The Ballerina Stunt - YouTube

Hi, I'm looking at building a 4.5x6m carport in the middle of my property (far from setbacks, etc). I was hoping to wood-frame it and go through the hoops with the city. I've just received some quotes from private certifiers, and they want an engineer's report along with a council assessment. Part of their fee includes the assessment. I would be footing the bill for the engineer's report (they even recommended their mate).
I'm just wondering if this is completely necessary. An engineer for a carport? It seems excessive. The assessment as well. I callled the council about placement and they said it wouldn't need development approval coz it's not near anything. Anyway, I hope someone here can offer me some not-for-profit answers. As soon as money's involved, it dawns a silly season round here. Cheers.:?
PS: I'm in Moreton Bay, just north of Brisbane.

Hi all,

Brand new here, but have been reading the forums for awhile. I've managed to find some of the answers I'm chasing, but not all so I'm turning to you for a bit of help/recommendations for a decking timber species.

I'm a Canadian gal that has settled in central-Perth with my Australian partner. We've recently purchased our first home and are looking to build a deck (roughly 3.5 x 7m) out the back. Now luckily I have an exceptionally handy father who has been building decks in Canada for a number of decades. I've managed to get him to agree to build us a deck the next time he visits (around the end of the year), but I need to have everything on hand before his arrival so we can get started quickly (so he doesn't feel like his whole holiday has been spent building a deck).

In the interest of expediting the process we're thinking of using some of the pre-made handi-blocks as part of the sub-structure and treated pine as the joists/bearers. While not his favourite, my father has a great deal of experience with Canadian treated pine so he's comfortable working with that. However, for the actual decking we've been looking at different hardwoods but many of the species are foreign to my father so I'm trying to get some help on choices.

The site (facing East) of the deck will be exposed to all of the elements (Perth wet winters/hot dry summers). We'd like something low maintenance (treating it once-twice a year is fine) that will hold up well for at least the next 10-15 years. Cost is a factor as well as we've spent a bundle updating the house itself. We've discussed jarrah (and haven't ruled it out) but in my limited experience (it's throughout our Federation-era home) it's a devil to work with. I guess we're after a combination of looks/convenience/cost...which likely hardly narrows it down as I assume that's what everyone is chasing!

Sorry if that's a bit long winded. Any advice is greatly appreciated and if you know of good places to source the timber (besides the big chains) in Perth all the better.

Many thanks in advance.

Hi guys

I have had my house renovated recently and had a colour bond roof installed on my new extension which is a flat roof. Since the roof plumber has finished I have had a number of other tradesman over to finish off different jobs.

I was up on the roof recently cleaning out some gutters and noticed that the roof was slightly damaged. As it looks like someone has walked on it incorrectly. That isis directly on top of the folds rather than on the flat channels in between. As a result this has caused dents in the folds.

This is now causing water to collect in the channels as they are slightly raised and not flat like they should be.

So was wondering if someone could offer some advice as to how I might fix without having to unscrew the sheets and use a rubber mullet to get the dents out and mould it back to the right shape.

As the sheets are all in one length that is they run from one side of the roof to the other.

I thought that there might be tool available where I could put it on top of roof which would suck the dents out.

Any aappreciated cheersappreciated cheers

I'm planning to build a balcony using Scyon exterior flooring - per these instructions: http://scyon.com.au/products/downloa...ons+Jan+12.pdf

I notice that it talks about laying the tiles directly over the waterproof membrane (with control joints etc.) or on a mortar bed.

I like the sound of the direct method as I'm thinking that it will be lighter weight, less effort and less chance of the mortar bed having an incorrect fall etc. but my impression is that most people use the motar bed approach.

Keen to get suggestions on which approach is better - pro's and con's etc.?

I bought a rangehood that needs a large steel duct. The duct will require a hole through the kitchen wall to the outside. The wall is double brick load bearing. The hole will need to be 370 wide by 150 high (mm). The brick sizes are standard (230w x 76h). So with the 150 height, a hole will require the removal of part of 2 courses. And I reckon the 370 width would leave bricks above the hole unsupported. Am I going to need a lintel fitted? Helpful advice will be gratefully received. Many thanks.

Is it possible to buy concrete lintels that don't have the steel exposed at the ends ?

I'm in a very corrosive environment and would prefer not to rely on mortar sealing the steel.

Re-stumper recommendations Perth South East. Property in Jarrahdale specifically...
Ideas?

Hi,

I'm mounting a large 1700mm framed mirror onto my porcelain tiled bathroom wall. Estimated weight of the mirror is 15-20kg.

The mirror is like a large picture frame with strings to mount it.

What's the best way to mount the hooks?

Drill through the porcelain tiles trying to find a stud?

Or would it be possible to silicone 2 x (one on each end of the mirror) self adhesive style plastic or metal flat backed picture hooks?

The other alternative is to silicone say 2 x 30cm lengths (one on each end of the mirror) of 2 x 1 pine or 16mm MDF and then screwing picture hooks onto the timber??

As I may remove the mirror in future, I rather not drill the tiles.

G'day all.
I am trying to assess whether it is practical and cost effective to raise the height of an existing corrugated sheet roofing of the pergola! My intention is to enclose part of the pergola to extend my rumpus. In order to keep the ceiling height of the extended portion same as the existing (indoor) rumpus, the pergola roof needs to be higher. The house itself has a concrete tile roofing while the pergola has a corrugated sheet.How difficult or expensive can it be? What are the issues I need to consider?

I am considering two options.

1. A saw tooth roof for the raised section of the pergola roof.
2. Simple raised roof of the pergola, so that it meets the tiled roof further up.

Which will make more sense?

Looking forward to some suggestions.
Cheers

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In the process of painting the house exterior (60yo weatherboard) and was wanting to paint the back steps with a grippy finish as they can be a bit slippery when it's raining. The steps are in alright condition with what looks to be acrylic which I will lightly sand with 120 before coating.

Should I add grit to my usual paint I'm using for the battens / fascia (solaguard satin acrylic) OR go for a proprietary paint with the grit already added and have it tinted?

My 2 concerns are having the tint right and also the grit holding up thru wear and tear.

Cheers.

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