Hi All,

I'm planning on increasing the height of the tiling in my house's toliet area soon, and the wall is currently painted with thickish 70's style green paint. Should this paint be removed instead of tiling over it? I'm just a bit concerned that the paint is not going to provide a good surface to adhere to, as in places where the paint is chipped, you can peel small sections of it away from the wall. The walls are all solid brick (internal and external).

Any advice appreciated ... and I've had a bit of a search and couldn't find much on the topic.

Cheers,

Shane

We are planning to place a 6ft fish tank, which holds up to 900kg, on our soon to be tiled area. The tank stand is welded out of square tubing and has 6 legs approximately 20mm in width. So this is 150kg per leg. I am concerned about the tiles cracking and wondering what type of load distribution would prevent this. We were considering putting the tank on wheels as the 6 legs are already taking the load ok and the wheels will enable the tank to be moved (after it is mostly drained as I am aware of the force the water has against the glass). Would nylon castor cups under the wheels be enough to distribute the fully laden load? Or would we need to put down sheeting or rails or something else?

The 600x600 tiles will be on a concrete base which has a thicker piece of concrete directly under where the tank is to be (sorry not sure of the correct term).

thanks for any advice

I bought 6mm villaboard to do behind tiles in shower. However it will butt join to 10mm plasterboard making tiling a little more difficult. The guy who is helping me suggested using 10mm Gyprock Aquacheck to get nice join for tiling. Which to use?...

For the corners I have right angled PVC strips that the villaboard slots into. It is 25mm on the back and around 15mm on the front. ie. you end up with both a internal and external flashing all in one... If I use the villaboard do I silicone them into this PVC stip

I am putting in a polymarble shower base... I was going to lay cement/tile sheets over the entire floor (including under the shower base) and use cement based tile adhesive as the bed for the shower base. Do I need to lay the sheet under the shower base and is cement based tile adhesive ok ......(it does say to use it in Marbletrend's installation booklet btw..)

not really sure if this belongs here but......
looking to use one of the larger type sails as a carport,instead of a fixed colourbond type.in the pics from various websites it shows people using them in the driveway as carports and im wondering if anyone on here has any experiance with these things(as carport)
they are gr8 to sit under and drink beer but im not to shure about using them as car cover.
anyone?:?

hi for sale is my flextool wacker i bought it about 3 months ago secondhand in excellent condition and has very minimal work since then only did about an hours worth of work if that, i recently serviced it cleaned air filter, changed oil, new spark plug etc

I paid 1000 for it want 800

To arrange viewing call 0439 527 866

Hello all,

First time poster.

I am what i beleive to be about (50%) into my first reno (prob more like 20%). After pulling the carpet upin the kitchen(??) i foundsomevery very pretty lino,had to go,but its gluedtothe FB. The boards appear to not have been treated sothey will need snading and polising etc.Any hints or tips on how to get te flooring upoff te fb.

Thanks

How long should I leave a slab before I park/drive on it ? Its average thickness is about 120mm- 25MPA

Thanks

Greg

May sound a fairly simple question. How would you normally fix the end of bearers to existing brick pillars

Can someone explain the reasoning behind putting down a raft slab say 9m, why it would need an internal beam at say every 4m. Obviously you would either put 2 in equally spaced rather than 1 in the middle? overdesign vs under design.

I am looking at making a 2 open plan rooms under a deck, and trying to come to terms with the A/S regarding length of slab.

I poured a slab just to level off an area with an edge beam of upto 350mm high with an average of 100-120mm slab 4 x 9m just to put some steps on. I piered down where posts will go and now use thes for future pier points for a new deck. Engineer had no issues with the slab/piers for a new deck.

So why would I design a similar slab of similar dimensions to become a room/rooms but no internal walls with internal beams?

Hi all,

I want to get an extension done on my post-war cottage - a deck and a detached room about 6x4m off the deck. The deck would be about the same diametre as the room.

Now, I am totally clueless about such things and that's why I'm here. I haven't got plans drawn and have only got one quote from a builder who built a great deck for a friend, and he quoted me $80,000.

I have tried to get other quotes but the other builders I've spoken too appear to think it's too small a job as they haven't got back to me. Sorry for the vague description but I am just wondering if anyone can tell me whether $80,000 seems reasonable as a ballpark figure for this type of job.

Cheers,
Taz

i have a brand new 202 litre fridge that is empty. how long should the fridge part take to cool down to 5 degrees? i have had it switched on 3 hours and gone from 25 degrees to 15 degrees. is this excessive?? on full cold setting as well. freezer seems to be doing ok.

Hi there. Katiecoo has a problem . I have just purchased this house, and the back garden is on 3 levels. Treated pine sleepers, and concrete retaining wall blocks are used. The concrete blocks are very black and dirty. A good pressure clean will certainly make a differerence. Is there anything that I can do to prevent these blocks discolouring in the future? Can they be sealed with something to assist?.

I'm currently building a timber deck around my pool. The wife doesn't want a glass fence and given that I need 45m of fencing I doubt I could afford it anyway.

Bunnings sell a powder coated aluminium fence at a reasonable price. From memory it's $99 for a 2.5m wide panel and $21 per post. It looks good but I wonder about the strength of it. I reckon if a teenager was to stand on the bottom rail widway between the posts he might bend it. I'm going to buy two posts and one panel to evaluate it myself, but I was wondering if anyone on the forum has used or seen this fencing and can comment.

Regards,
Jack

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone knows where I can buy and pick up a small quantity (~100) of clay bricks to fill in a boarded-up back doorway. They will be rendered over so they can be any old bricks. Or if anyone on the southside has a pile of bricks they want to get rid of???

Thanks

Hello fellas (and ladies),
Extremely green and very nervous about treading the extension path. We have a 12 square brick veneer ex-commission house. It is a very basic 3 bedroom house with a semblance of an entrance hall, lounge, kitchen one bathroom and small laundry. We have begun the process of design with a company for the addition of Master Bedroom, Robes, Ensuite, new kitchen, family room and possibly extra study. It sounds like a lot of space, but it was origianlly thought to be just over 5 house squares.
I have just got off the phone with company guy and been advised that there is no way that the extra study is possible for just on $100K (our budget) and that due to the expanse of roof width wise (absorbing a lot of our budget) that we would end up with just on 4 squares of extra living........
WE ARE DESPERATE FOR MORE SPACE. We cannot afford to re-buy in this area and want to stay where we are.
My questions are these, and please, feel free to wade in with info/advice etc.
1. Has anyone out there built to lockup and finished it themselves, and in your opinion, was it cost effective and worth it?
2. Has anyone, used an independent builder for this size project? I am wary of this as I know of two families who just about went under with a bankrupt/dodgy builder.
3. Does this price seem fair for what is being offered? I thought so, but now have the feeling that they may have been "blue skying" us to maybe get the job.
Any advice or guidance would be appreciated.
4. Has anyone completed a single storey extension of this approximate size in the inner north east suburbs of Melbourne, and could they give an approximate idea/rough guide to costs please?
Thank you everyone.
Extendogirl