Hello all,

First time poster.

I am what i beleive to be about (50%) into my first reno (prob more like 20%). After pulling the carpet upin the kitchen(??) i foundsomevery very pretty lino,had to go,but its gluedtothe FB. The boards appear to not have been treated sothey will need snading and polising etc.Any hints or tips on how to get te flooring upoff te fb.

Thanks

We have bought a house that has slate floors throughout and want to install skirting boards.As the floor is natural slate and uneven, what is the best way to alleviate the gaps between the board and the floor. Scribing is one way but will take me a month of Sundays.
Would love some advice.
Cheers

Hi everyone,

Does anyone have this brand of floating timber floor? I like the light look of american (white) oak, but not being a hardwood floor, I'm a bit concerned about being more prone to dents, even from furniture.
White oak is a tiny bit harder on the Janka scale than Tassie oak, and I heard that some people get dents in their Tassie Oak floors just from sofas and other heavy furniture sitting on them :oo: !

Does anyone have this floor and can you share your experience with it? Also, does it go orange with age (or darker)?

Maybe we should be looking at the good old blackbutt instead ... but it is unfortunately much more expensive :( and a bit darker

Thanks!

Has anyone installed Marmoleum linoleum? Not to be confused with vinyl.

It seems to have quite a few advantages. Any negatives other than higher cost to buy?

Hey,
I've just bought an apartment, and am doing a timber floor instead of carpet. Its ground floor so the builder was fine with this, although he said i cant fix into the concrete.
Is it possible to lay ply and then glue and fix hardwood flooring to the ply, without the ply being fixed to the concrete, or will there be too much movement?
Thanks

Hi all,

I am about to embark on installing a laminate floating floor and I have a query.One of the doorways the the new flooring will pass though has a pre fabricated metal door jamb (the internal wall is single bricks) .The floor would stop at this door way as the floor steps down into the garage on the other side.
How do I maintain the expansion clearance though the doorway as undercutting the door jamb,even if I could, will still not allow sufficient clearance as the door jamb is so thin?

Any iIdeas ?

Thanks

Hi guys

Need a bit of help (again!)

Our slab needs to be prepared for floating floors. Some areas are out of tolerance for levelness, eg. we have a high spot which creates about 5mm deviation in one direction and about 3mm deviation in the opposite direction (it's like a little ridge). What do we do to make this area level? What materials to use?
I heard of cement based screed and it sounds like somehting we can apply easier, rather than the liquid compounds which I assume are best when spread over the entire floor (which we don't really need to do, plus I think it would raise the floor level a little).
But what brands and where to buy that (Bunnings?)? And do they need etching of the floor first? I'd like something that doesn't need any professional or time consuming preparation :(

Can you help please? Thanks!

Hi all ... I recently had my floors done by a flooring professional here in Melbourne. I decided on going with treatex in a satin finish on my parquetry floor, stained with a half black stain. The first time round there were some spots of rejection on the floor, some marks left from the roller and dripping on the vertical parts of a stair tread which I wasn't happy with. There were also some evident sanding swirls in one of the rooms visible under downlights.

The guy running the show agreed to have his guys come back and re-do the floor. Unfortunately I had already had cabinetary and a large in built desk placed in to the room with the swirls and I was advised that they couldn't blend in the finish around the desk. So I had them do everything but (the dining area, kitchen and corridor). The finish now is better (no rejection), however there are still roller marks that appear quite evident.

I've attached a picture of the sort of thing I'm talking about. Is this something that is common with treatex? I don't think i'm being overly picky, unless this is a common issue? I'm assuming this won't change much over time with use. Is there anything that can be done to blend these sorts of marks in after application? Or is the only solution sanding back and re-applying?

Given that this is the second time this has happened I'm concerned that this is either just the way the product is (?), or that the application method being used will always result in this....

Thanks!

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