Hi all,

I want to get an extension done on my post-war cottage - a deck and a detached room about 6x4m off the deck. The deck would be about the same diametre as the room.

Now, I am totally clueless about such things and that's why I'm here. I haven't got plans drawn and have only got one quote from a builder who built a great deck for a friend, and he quoted me $80,000.

I have tried to get other quotes but the other builders I've spoken too appear to think it's too small a job as they haven't got back to me. Sorry for the vague description but I am just wondering if anyone can tell me whether $80,000 seems reasonable as a ballpark figure for this type of job.

Cheers,
Taz

Hello fellas (and ladies),
Extremely green and very nervous about treading the extension path. We have a 12 square brick veneer ex-commission house. It is a very basic 3 bedroom house with a semblance of an entrance hall, lounge, kitchen one bathroom and small laundry. We have begun the process of design with a company for the addition of Master Bedroom, Robes, Ensuite, new kitchen, family room and possibly extra study. It sounds like a lot of space, but it was origianlly thought to be just over 5 house squares.
I have just got off the phone with company guy and been advised that there is no way that the extra study is possible for just on $100K (our budget) and that due to the expanse of roof width wise (absorbing a lot of our budget) that we would end up with just on 4 squares of extra living........
WE ARE DESPERATE FOR MORE SPACE. We cannot afford to re-buy in this area and want to stay where we are.
My questions are these, and please, feel free to wade in with info/advice etc.
1. Has anyone out there built to lockup and finished it themselves, and in your opinion, was it cost effective and worth it?
2. Has anyone, used an independent builder for this size project? I am wary of this as I know of two families who just about went under with a bankrupt/dodgy builder.
3. Does this price seem fair for what is being offered? I thought so, but now have the feeling that they may have been "blue skying" us to maybe get the job.
Any advice or guidance would be appreciated.
4. Has anyone completed a single storey extension of this approximate size in the inner north east suburbs of Melbourne, and could they give an approximate idea/rough guide to costs please?
Thank you everyone.
Extendogirl

My name in Andrew and I am likely to become a rgular on here.
I have just purchased my first home and the kitchen is only 2.3M wide. I am looking to remove part or the wall to creath an open kitchen and breakfast bar.
I would like to find out if anyone can help with someone to check out if this is load bearing and / or let me know what size beam I need to install to replace the wall.
I am looking to save as much $$ as I can so all the "hard work" will be done by me.
I will then be ripping out the entire kitchen and installing a new one.
Thanks in advance for all your help.:2tsup:

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I am re-opening my business in a bigger location and it has 2 rooms that need to be demo'd. The entire space is around 4000 sq ft, and there are 2 offices that need to be removed.

my question is, (they are non load baring) so pretty much just 2x4s and sheet rock...

Can I simply take a demo hammer and hit the walls down? How would I go about removing this wall? I know there is some wiring within it because there are light switches in the rooms..

remove sheet rock first? then use a saw to cut the 2x4s out?

thanks

Hi all,

Is it possible to add expansion joints to an existing house.

The house is rendered concrete on both the internal and external walls, which, with any slight movements, cracks faster than the Hawthorn backline under any sort of pressure.

As it's both internal and external, controlling the moisture in the ground will not be possible, nor is underpinning an option (well cost anyways).

So I've read a lot about Control / Expansion joints and just wandering if they can be added to the above type of house, which I assume would help prevent the constant cracking the occurs during the various seasons ?

Thanks.

I have a crack in the roof I patched with flashing and silicone when the roof was dry but due to heavy wind and rain it has finally come off. It lasted for about two months. However, the flashing on the other side of the roof, which was done by the builder, has not come off. I would like to know what I'm doing wrong and how can I patch the crack again using flashing. Should I use duct tape? The roof is tiles.

The silicone I'm using is translucent roof and gutter silicone sealant. I have attached picture of both the silicone and flashing that I'm using.
picasaweb.google.com/100510941587828224124/Roof

Thanks.