54221
Australia's largest renovations forum

Hire the best air conditioning and heating expert and save up to 40%

Go

Brivis Ducted heating problem

Results 1 to 34 of 34
  1. #1
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MElbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default Brivis Ducted heating problem

    Hey all...

    Anyone know what could be wrong with our ducted system?

    Brivis ducted system, was working fine,

    digital thermostat - relay turns on ok.... Pilot light is on...

    problem is that when the theromstat is switched on there is no reponse from the ducted unit... fan does not come on, heater rails do not alite.

    i can manually put the fan on via the swtich in the unit but it wont automatically start when the relay switches on the thermostat nor does the gas fire up....

    any suggestions.

    Cheers

  2. #2
    The typo kign Gumby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
    Posts
    628

    Default

    I had a similar problem and called a local Heating Cooling guy in. He turned the unit's power off at the plug and then turned it back on. It reset the unit and it worked fine.

    he charged me $100 for the call out.

    Give it a try. And if it works, you owe me $100
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Also had a similar/identical problem with our system some time ago but wasn't as lucky as Gumby. The gas control unit in the burner unit outside had to be replaced - at a cost of $350 back in 05.

  4. #4
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MElbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default

    thnx for the replies..

    have tried turning it off and on again. was one of the first things i tried....

    unfortunately i think its the main control unit also.... thought it would of just been a gas relay in the main unit but the fan is not swtiching on either so it might be the whole module.

  5. #5
    The typo kign Gumby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
    Posts
    628

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by futronix View Post
    thnx for the replies..

    have tried turning it off and on again. was one of the first things i tried....
    See, since you joined this forum, things are getting better already.
    You just saved yourself $100
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  6. #6
    Country Member zathras's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Wallan, VIC, Australia
    Age
    49
    Posts
    72

    Default

    Hmmmm, I just got in the roof to do the same to my Brivis heater.

    Certainly cycling the power switch seemed to make things a lot better, gas fired up straight away.

    Is there a Brivis Y2K fault designed to trip on the 11th August 2007?

    The other strange thing is the light fitted so you can see went on and off several times before staying on when I first turned it on.

    I'm thinking perhaps the switches on the GPO / light is full of dust making a bad contact, flicked it several times and all seems good now...
    Ray

  7. #7
    PLU.MBR.BL.DR. bricks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Adelaide - West
    Age
    33
    Posts
    643

    Default

    You may have a broken mag valve ( gas control) Do you have to manually start the pilot with a piezo igniter button?

    Your mag valve gets a small EG 30-50 milliamp feed from the thermostat to power a small electro magnet which opens the gas feed- pilot will work when this part isn't.

    If you have a rod and tube type thermostat the milliamps are the same but the tube assembly may have broken- happens all the time.

    The fan on most units is wired before the gas valve too so if your fan is broken your gas won't come on either- its a safety feature- If i were you id check the fan first, then worry about the gas, until you get the fan working the gas problem- if there is one - wont be easy to find.

    Sometimes there is a build up of scum on the fan blades and motor making it much heavier- if you wipe this off and clean it a bit you may find the fan can spin more easilly,
    If you dont play it, it's not an instrument!

  8. #8

    Super Moderator

    Electron Murderer

    Stuart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    286

    Default

    Had a similar situation - same symptoms.

    My unit wouldn't reset - what had happened was I had too many ducts closed, and the unit had tripped on overheat.

    Real problem was - dust, age, (lack of) luck, the trip wouldn't reset, even with power cycling.

    My guy - (I've found a good one) came out, took the unit apart (bloody trip switch is in the bottom, underneath everything!), cleaned it out, tested, confirmed the switch was still good, and was working again and reassembled.

    Total cost - about $80. I've used this guy in the past, and will every time in the future - he's reliable, charges reasonably, and knows his job.
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    Stu's Shed.com

  9. #9
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MElbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bricks View Post
    You may have a broken mag valve ( gas control) Do you have to manually start the pilot with a piezo igniter button?

    Your mag valve gets a small EG 30-50 milliamp feed from the thermostat to power a small electro magnet which opens the gas feed- pilot will work when this part isn't.

    If you have a rod and tube type thermostat the milliamps are the same but the tube assembly may have broken- happens all the time.

    The fan on most units is wired before the gas valve too so if your fan is broken your gas won't come on either- its a safety feature- If i were you id check the fan first, then worry about the gas, until you get the fan working the gas problem- if there is one - wont be easy to find.

    Sometimes there is a build up of scum on the fan blades and motor making it much heavier- if you wipe this off and clean it a bit you may find the fan can spin more easilly,
    thnx for your reply. the fan can be manually started from a switch.. fans tests ok... we have changedf from a mercury swtich thermostat to a digital one (been working for over a year till now).. relay clicks on ok... havent tested the current going through to the inlet of the cotrol box onthe unit.... will have to some more investigating.......

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Hey Futronix, I hope this problem isn't keeping you awake at night.

  11. #11
    Novice
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Hi, it could be any number of things and hard to say without more specific information. It could be your gas valve, flame rollout sensor or your electronic controller. If your heater has been switched off for some time and the LEDs are doing a merry dance its probably your electronic controller.
    If you can safely test voltage going to the gas solenoid you may find zero volts going to the gas control. They are usually solenoid driven.
    On a mid 90s model the controller is a Tek321.

    Brivis had a recall on over 11,700 EMS2 heaters made between 1994 and 1997 due to a faulty circuit board (which they tried to deny when i rang their service (sic) centre)

    Anyway they stuffed me around for a while then sent out a tech who didnt follow proper start up procedure but flicked the power on and off rapidly (not a good idea IMO) and reckoned its not a recall but refused to show me the part or explain why and wanted $470 to replace the board. Their customer service is appalling IMO.

    If you shop around you can buy the Tek 321 controller for under $280 and takes minutes to replace (and costs a whole lot less to Brivis i am sure).

    Does Brivis mention on their website or user manuals that its not a good idea to leave the unit with the power switched off power to the heater- no - why ? Cos it can "blow" the circuit board and they make money from it.
    I found out the hard way. I do not recommend Brivis.

  12. #12
    Novice
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    23

    Default

    oops just to add, when the heater has been off for a while and is turned on the surge can blow the board especially when its a few years old and its been cold. Moral of the story is always leave the power connected to your heaters folks. Dont shut it off for summer etc. It aint worth it.

  13. #13
    2K Club Member seriph1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kilmore, near Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    2,090

    Default

    first of all WELCOME to the forum! Hope you get your problem fixed. Someone mused that these units seem to break down at the same time - ours (EM35 in-roof monster) displayed weird faults..... fan working first thing in the morning - then gets up to temp. goes back 4 or 6 degrees turns on but never gets to temp again. Went up top and saw the fan was working, system kept saying 'purge' - heater unit was turning on then off then on etc. Called Brivis who wanted 175 call-out fee plus parts - we are in KILMORE, which is an hour from Melbourne (greetings to the Wallan-ite in this thread!) - anyway I asked the original installer (business over the road from us) what he thought the problem might be ..... sounds like a FLAME SENSOR was his reply. Called Brivis again and asked how much - $70 - then saw a number for spares on their site. Called it and got a flame sensor for $17 trade price. Got home - got in the roof - fitted it in ten minutes and we are happ'nin baby! Good result all-round really, but I have to say Brivis was pretty inflexible seeing the system was only out of warranty by two weeks and cost more than 6 grand.

    but we are waaaaaaaarm n toasty up here in Kilmore, which can be a tad chilly

    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  14. #14
    Novice
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    23

    Default

    ...but I have to say Brivis was pretty inflexible..........
    yes, and i can think of a lot of other words to describe what i think of them....

  15. #15
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MElbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Cheers everybody for their reply.

    I decided to take things into my own hands, turned off the unit. turned off pilot light, get rubber malet out.. knock the gas valve box (in/out box)

    fire up pilot again.... turn thermostat on.....Bobs ur uncle....

    Thanks all again for your replies, much appreciated

  16. #16
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MElbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Cheers everybody for their reply.

    I decided to take things into my own hands, turned off the unit. turned off pilot light, get rubber malet out.. knock the gas valve box (in/out box)

    fire up pilot again.... turn thermostat on.....Bobs ur uncle....

    Thanks all again for your replies, much appreciated

  17. #17
    Novice
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Are you serious ? you hit the gas control valve with a mallet and it worked ?
    The gas valve is usually solenoid driven on late models and is operated by the electronic controller.
    I hope the gas valve isnt stuck to the on position now and potentially allows uncombusted gases to flow if the pilot goes out.... Cheers

  18. #18
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MElbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default

    no solenoid is not stuck open..... lol...

    our is a old style ducted.... never been serviced....
    and no i dont recommend anyone hit it with a hammer...

    jus thought i would give it a try and it worked... i kinda knew in the first place that it was the solenoid as I tested that there was enough current to trip the solenoid.

  19. #19
    rkg
    rkg is offline
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Glen Waverley Melbourne
    Posts
    1

    Default Brivis

    Hi,
    I am trouble in getting my ducts on when central heating is on. It shows all i.e. fan running, gas seems to be fired as only radiant heat is coming out of all the ducts but no flow of air?
    any suggestions? what is the location of Motto? 2-3 montsh ago it came out and service man fixed it and got $100 (just plug in)--I am wondering whether it came out again?
    pl suggest

  20. #20
    2K Club Member seriph1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kilmore, near Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    2,090

    Default

    So many variable, but it sounds to me like the main duct has fallen off, which is what happened to ours at first..... the heat melted the crap gaffer tape they used and down she came ..... went into the roof space and it was lovely and warm ...... the heating bill that month was something to be believed! I suggest getting up in the roof and checking that first. After that, if you can verify that the fan is operational, it may be that the unit is 'cycling' but not getting to full throttle so to speak. This is what happened in our case .... we could hear it running and all that but no joy out of the ducts. I bought a replacement thermocouple and presto..... then I bought another for the next time it fails.
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  21. #21
    Novice
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by seriph1 View Post
    So many variable, but it sounds to me like the main duct has fallen off, which is what happened to ours at first..... the heat melted the crap gaffer tape they used and down she came ..... went into the roof space and it was lovely and warm ...... the heating bill that month was something to be believed! I suggest getting up in the roof and checking that first. After that, if you can verify that the fan is operational, it may be that the unit is 'cycling' but not getting to full throttle so to speak. This is what happened in our case .... we could hear it running and all that but no joy out of the ducts. I bought a replacement thermocouple and presto..... then I bought another for the next time it fails.
    We've currently got the same problem. Fans spin, pilot lights up but nothing comes out of the ducts.
    Tomorrow ill change the gaffer tape and see if that does the trick. Otherwise ill try changing the thermocouple, but my question is where abouts do I buy one from and is it easy to install?

    Cheers

  22. #22
    Golden Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    865

    Default

    If your fan is on and burners are on then the thermocouple is not the problem. If your thermocouple is knackered then your pilot will not stay lit. There must be a duct that has fallen off somewhere.

    Tools

  23. #23
    Novice
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tools View Post
    If your fan is on and burners are on then the thermocouple is not the problem. If your thermocouple is knackered then your pilot will not stay lit. There must be a duct that has fallen off somewhere.

    Tools
    Cheers buddy. But the thing is nothing is coming out of any ducts so i guess there must be something wrong with the two main ducts coming out of the unit. Will change the gaffer tape tomorrow and check all ducts.

  24. #24
    2K Club Member seriph1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kilmore, near Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    2,090

    Default

    if the ducts are off then hot air will be raging throughout your roof space, and that'll be easy to fix.... If it isnt that, then I believe a call to the Brivis hotline (number should be on your t/stat) may be in order..... or a local service agent if you know one..... the fault I described was fixed by changing the thermocouple, which took minutes. Though I am trained in electronics engineering, I can't recall anything that was particularly difficult. One piece of advice again, even though I mentioned it previously..... buy another one for next time. The place I bought them from was in West Melbourne but I can't recall their name ..... will try and find the receipt. You'll obviously need to know the precise model number of your unit. For what it's worth, ours has two thermocouples. I replaced both.... they bend over time due to the heat, then they fail. As mentioned, our unit turned on...... fans ran..... gas ignited and then turned off...repeatedly.
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  25. #25
    Novice
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Our ducted heating is acutally under the house. I went under the house today and noticed that one of ducts had a problem which what caused no air to come out. The core bit which is inside the insulation snapped and blocked the air going through.

    Rang up spare parts and they quoted $60 for 6m worth of core, insulation and sleeve for the 12" 1300mm (this is what it said on the sleeve). Not sure what the 1300mm is. Does it matter if I buy a 12" 500mm (for example)?

    Anyone know of any other places that sell the core, insulation and sleeve?

  26. #26
    Diamond Member Terrian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Kilsyth, Victoria
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,065

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gt88 View Post
    Our ducted heating is acutally under the house. I went under the house today and noticed that one of ducts had a problem which what caused no air to come out. The core bit which is inside the insulation snapped and blocked the air going through.
    Had a problem with the lack of heat to 2 ducts, bathroom & bedroom, turns out the duct tape let go at one of the joins, the spiders under the house had been kept nice & warm for a day or 2, have to get some decent cloth tape I think.

    Anyone know of any other places that sell the core, insulation and sleeve?
    I did see ducting at Bunnings a month or three ago. I didn't really take any notice of the size or price though, sorry.

  27. #27
    Novice
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Terrian View Post
    I did see ducting at Bunnings a month or three ago. I didn't really take any notice of the size or price though, sorry.
    Thanks for that mate. Will head down there in the coming days for a look.

    Can anyone help me with the 1300mm thing? I know it has to be 12" due to the extract from the unit which the ducts connect to is 12" but im not sure what the 1300mm relates to.

  28. #28
    2K Club Member seriph1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kilmore, near Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    2,090

    Default

    Why can't it just be reattached?
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  29. #29
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Gladstone Park
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tools View Post
    If your fan is on and burners are on then the thermocouple is not the problem. If your thermocouple is knackered then your pilot will not stay lit. There must be a duct that has fallen off somewhere.

    Tools
    Hi
    We have only lived here 6 months and other house had a younger heater than this one which is a Buffalo approx 80's model Now when we light the pilot it stays on while heating but when we switch the manual thermostat off the pilot goes out and have to go and relight each time Brivis want $175 to come out (ripoff) Any ideas and what is a thermocouple
    Also does anyone know if a model this old can have an electronic thermostat instead of the manual type
    Presume someone other than Brivis can come and look (hopefully cheaper)

  30. #30
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Gladstone Park
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Just looked up thermocouple on How stuff works

  31. #31
    Apprentice (new member) liverrot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I had a problem with the pilot light not staying on. The pilot would light but as soon as you release the pilot button it would go out. Mine is a Brivis Buffalo 85 central heating unit. Following everyones advice (thanks!), I went and bought a thermocouple and my heater now works. I got a Brivis Thermocouple (part B009065) from Totaline, Roden St in West Melbourne. I could have got a Honeywell equivalent from Reece but I decided to get the Brivis branded one. I probably got touched in the process at $50. I installed it myself by removing the whole pilot assemby which involved the capillary tube fitting and pilot gas pipe fitting and one screw on the pilot assembly. I then yanked out the thermocouple with a pair of pliers then pushed in the new thermocoupling by hand. I then loosely refitted the pilot unit, the pilot gas pipe and the new capillary tube taking care to not cross threads which is dead easy to do. Then tightened everything and tested for leaks with soapy water. Then started it up and it worked just like a bought one!

  32. #32
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by liverrot View Post
    I had a problem with the pilot light not staying on. The pilot would light but as soon as you release the pilot button it would go out. Mine is a Brivis Buffalo 85 central heating unit. Following everyones advice (thanks!), I went and bought a thermocouple and my heater now works. I got a Brivis Thermocouple (part B009065) from Totaline, Roden St in West Melbourne. I could have got a Honeywell equivalent from Reece but I decided to get the Brivis branded one. I probably got touched in the process at $50. I installed it myself by removing the whole pilot assemby which involved the capillary tube fitting and pilot gas pipe fitting and one screw on the pilot assembly. I then yanked out the thermocouple with a pair of pliers then pushed in the new thermocoupling by hand. I then loosely refitted the pilot unit, the pilot gas pipe and the new capillary tube taking care to not cross threads which is dead easy to do. Then tightened everything and tested for leaks with soapy water. Then started it up and it worked just like a bought one!
    Hi all,

    I know this is a pretty old thread and I apologies for dragging it back up but I have only just had this same problem arise with my Brivis Buffalo 85, Now I can get a multifit thermocouple for about $20 but I am a bit unsure as to how to remove the pilot assembly.

    Could anyone give me a quick run-down on what I need to disassemble to change the thermocouple?

    Cheers,
    Glenn

  33. #33
    Novice
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Hi, I'm wondering if anyone can advise what I can replace an "Enerstat K4W" thermostat / controller with? I currently have this connected to a Brivis Auto EMS Gas Ducted Heater. I'm not overly familiar with this sort of thing but believe the control unit is causing my heater to not work. I get a battery light permanently showing on the K4W unit and my heater is not turning on. I've checked the pilot light is on and have pushed the "Manual" switch on the heater unit on. This successfully turns on the fan (I don't get hot air though which I think is normal?). I have checked that I have 24vac on the control unit coming from the heating unit which is why I'm suspecting the Thermostat unit is the issue (again though I'm not very familiar with any of this).

  34. #34
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    64

    Default

    If you want to test if the problem is a faulty thermostat or not, just bridge the 2 wires from the heater (connections R & W on heater) going to the thermostat together. This should cause the heater to fire up the burners, if it fires up you having themostat probs, if not you have control board problems.


Similar Threads

  1. Brivis ducted heating wall control Not working
    By busylion in forum Heating & Cooling
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 5th Aug 2011, 03:05 PM
  2. Why is the fan on our ducted heating going on in summer?
    By frazzlerock4 in forum Heating & Cooling
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 31st Dec 2007, 06:56 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •