Thread: Vulcan Quasar 40 wall heater
- 4th Sep 2009, 10:36 PM #1Apprentice (new member)
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Horsham, victoria
Vulcan Quasar 40 wall heater
I hope I am in the right area. I so need help with learning how to clean my wall heater. It is getting hot near the louvers, I think it is because it needs a clean as I can see lint and dust inside. My question is, how can I take off the front louvre cover to get inside and vacuum the dust and clean it? Can the louvre part be unscrewed for access? and if so, where are the screws??? I want to learn how to do this and would appreciate anyones advise..
Also,I resprayed the louvers with stove paint and it just flakes off when the ehater gets hot. This paint is meant to be for hot areas. I am assuming I may have needed to prime it or that the heater is heating too much in the middle louvres where the flaking is only happening..
- 5th Sep 2009, 10:30 AM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Country West Oz
Welcome to the Forum, you will find lots of uesful (and useless) information here.
I don't know that heater, but sounds like it might be getting too hot if it flakes the paint.
They always seem to find new and innovative ways to hide the attachment screws/clips or whatever on these sorts of things.
Make sure you have switched off any power to the unit before removing any covers etc.Regards Bradford
- 5th Sep 2009, 08:12 PM #31K Club Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
As for the paint, I've painted wood stoves in the past and there were two temperature ratings on the paint available at the hardware store at the time. One was significantly higher than the other, something I learnt about the hard way when I'd used the wrong one and ended up with a house full of smoke (from the paint) and the paint blistering like crazy when I lit the fire. No such problems with the higher grade paint, but it was only available in aerosol when I bought it so had to be careful doing the job since it was inside.
- 7th Sep 2009, 01:12 AM #4
The paint will be flaking off due to lack of surface preparation - unless its getting searingly hot (250 degrees or more), which I doubt. (if you can rest your fingers on it for a few seconds, its not going to be more than about 70 degrees).
The original finish is most likely to be a powdercoat; a light sand with 180 grit should help new paint stick. Make sure that the whole thing is clean - soaking it in Tricleanium will help shift years of dust and grot from it.
If I was trying to spruce it up like new, I'd take it to a sandblaster and respray the whole thing from bare metal - but that is going to rapidly get into the realm of 'is it cheaper to replace than repair'.DIY electrical wiring to AS/NZS3000 - details here - http://goo.gl/9d33T (PDF file)
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