Thread: Kickboard install

Hi Everyone,

We are finalising which kitchen company to go with for our new kitchen.

The mob we prefer uses plastic legs and end panels at the end of a run of cabinets. They say that they don't find the clip on kicks substantial enough, so they also screw them down from the top as well as clipping them in. Is this going to stop movement?

Also is is standard practise to scribe the kickboard to the floor and seal it with silicone to the floor? I don't want silverfish and cockroaches living under the kitchen kicks. Am concerned that if there is movement in the clip on kickboard that the silicone will dislodge and there will be gaps?

I like the clip on kicks / feet incase the kitchen floods, but would really prefer ladder kicks made from ply, however in Brisbane I have not found anyone who makes kitchens this way? Anyone?

frog_hopper

Plastic legs are great but I'm not as big a fan of the clips.

The design of the leg is such that the mounting block is the same diameter as the foot, which gives you two equidistant points to butt the kickboard up against.

Using the leg as a backstop we then screw down into the kick - and yes, a bead of silicon along the bottom edge to moisture proof the board and seal the (scribed) gap.

Cheers,

Earl

Thanks Earl. That really helps me understand how the legs / kickboards work.

Another thing you might be able to help me with; Looks like the company we most like uses end panels to the ground at the end of a run of cabinets. I am guessing that this is because they can then butt the kickboards up against the end panel. Is this a good idea? I'd like the end panels cut to cabinet height. Would the kicks at the corner point where two kicks join at 90 degrees be less stable when installed in conjuntion with adjustable legs? Is mitreing the end point or but joining the two kick boards in the absence of an end panel better / more stable?

Thanks
frog_hopper

I personally only do end panels to the top of the kicks unless the client specifically wants them all the way to the floor as I think seeing the kick all round gives a cleaner and lighter look to the cabinets - also I have a tendency to catch my toes on full length end panels which really annoys me...they are also harder to clean around with a broom, providing just another corner to have to sweep out.

It can be said that taking the ends to the floor is quicker and easier (for lazy installers) because, as you said, the kicks only need to be butted up to the board.
Strength and stability of joins are not really an issue here if the kicks are fixed up tight to the legs nothing is going to move.

Exposed kick ends can be either mitered or butt joined - I think mitering is tidier looking and any installer should have the equipment and nous to perform a clean miter join - if you want this look I would be pushing for it.

Cheers,

Earl

Thanks again Earl. Your feedback has been most useful. I'll push for the shorter end panels. Regards, frog_hopper