hi,

been reading through alot of threads re: direct concrete timber flooring. i am about to stick (bostic ultra renamed) second-handies to my concrete floor and thinking about a couple of options for fixing/holding the boards (some possibly twisted) to the concrete while the glue dries.

1.) ramset nails, that stick up and can be removed after drying

2.) piling bricks on top of the boards about metre or half metre spacings


what do you pro's reccommend?


second question.

when applying the glue to the contact area, should i.

1.) apply to boards in a wave formation and around the edges or

2.) apply straight to concrete first and either wave form or spread it over the floor area evenly with a spatula?

third.

what is the best way to finish rough second hand boards to maintain that rustic look but maintian a good seal with all the cracks, holes and what not?


looking forward to picking all your brains on this one. i am first timing it with this one and will not be deterred either so dont try and talk me out of it.

mr crow bar ox:confused::eek:

G'day

1. Yep
2. Yep as well.


2.1. Nope.
2.2.Yep with a 3 mil notched trowell

Rustic sux.

Why not get the floor sanded and sealed in the normal manner.
I'm sure that there is a finisher that would charge you like a wounded bull to "Distress" your floor.
If you are going to the trouble of laying it right, why not finish it right?
Use a miosture barrier coating also made by Bostick before trowelling any glue on.

Larry, Dusty,....Care to chime in?

__________________
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

thanks for the speedy advice trev. as for the bostic moisture barrier would i need it as i am on the second floor of an apartment building and i have already sealed the concrete with an unbostic sealer?

as for your feelings on rustic. i thought about plane-ing the boards first to save me the hassle of deep floorsanding after the event and getting an uneven finish. then decided not to worry so much about an ultra modern finish and utlise the reason i got them old on the first place. isn't this the reason people pay hundreds to make thier boards look old or take to them with a chain and hammer?

... worth more for resale modern or rustic you think?

As for trowling dirst to the concrete wont this use a #### load of expensive glue?

and for sealing the modern way... what is the proffs ideas on that??. given i have soft pine and would like the hardest finish possible and dont mind the shine. i have previously used boat laquer (cant remember the name)... the stuff they use for boats and sporting courts. should i seal or teak oil to bring out the grain. or is there an all in one out there...

oh the world for an - all in one-... everything!

the crow man

Great advice from Glock, with both the laying and finishing. So use it.

There is no such thing as expensive glue. Just expensive, time wasting repairs. So don't be afraid to spread the glue as suggested.

Get the best possible sanding and finishing job you can get for the floor.

If your thinking re-sale value you'll find much more people prefer a finely finished floor over a rustic homemade looking job everytime.

Now, seeing as this is your first go at laying a timber floor to concrete, my strong suggestion is that you lean towards a low pile, wool finished with a low sheen scotchguard. In other words, carpet.

Good luck with it. Take your time and do it right.

__________________
Dusty

www.clintfudgefloorsanding.com.au

dyna bolts

To be quite honest with you , you would be better off to lay down 15mm ply first then secret nail your floor to the ply. You regret it if you direct stick it to the concrete. Trust me i know. i am laying 2800 sq/mt of it at present, and the process is not for the un skilled or even the skilled for that matter. by the time you buy the glue and with all the effort you will put in , you will get better results if you lay down ply first and use spikes to hold down the ply.

thanks gents for chiming in this one. esp dusty. cheers mate for your kind support. having faith but this is my ultimate fear. at least some sort of saving grace if i balls the whole job up, carpet will quickly cover my bad carpentry.

last question.

lots of holes and cracks in this wood. its pine, its soft but has a nice grain. what type of filler should i use to hide the blemishes and so it blends in as best possible with the wood colour??

thanks again.

Timbermate "Teak" is my putty of choice for second hand Pine.

__________________
Dusty

www.clintfudgefloorsanding.com.au