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  1. #1
    wozzzzza is offline 1K Club Member
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    Default how do i replace broken T&G floor boards?

    in this old house i have tounge and groove floor boards, looke like jarrah or something like that. they are about 90-100mm wide and are broken in a few places around the house.
    what is the best method to remove and replace the broken ones??

  2. #2
    namtrak's Avatar
    namtrak is offline In with the new
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    Check Dusty, he has some great tutorials on his site

  3. #3
    Eli's Avatar
    Eli
    Eli is offline Yank Down Under
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    Are they on a subfloor? Doesn't matter but you should pay attention to the saw depth if so.

    Last time I did it, I set a circ saw for the thickness of the existing floor, cut several parallel grooves in the center body of the piece to come out.

    Attempt to avoid blind nails by staying in the center. I said that twice.

    A carbide blade can handle the stray nail, but it shouldn't be the best one you own.....

    chisel that whole mess out. Make sure you overlap well back into the good floor, so that you can interleave new and old boards. So it is a bit of chisel work. A sharp one does help. Make sure the cut end of a board is plumb or even undercut so the butt joints will have no gaps.

    I leave as much tongue on the new boards as I can, some slide in sideways but obviously the last one does not, and you must trim off the tongue. Face nail that one in.

    A fein multimaster is ace for this job.
    Do nothing, stay ahead

  4. #4
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    Eli is spot on, an old saw blade is great. You can also use a plunge router to cut the board over the joists then chisel out the corners. Bosch have a fein multimaster version which should also work pretty well (the oscillating saw blade)

    Cheers
    Pulse

  5. #5
    Eli's Avatar
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    I totally forgot the router. Top bearing bit and a template the profile of the end of the floor board, and you can really get in there. Greenies Pulse.
    Do nothing, stay ahead

  6. #6
    wozzzzza is offline 1K Club Member
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    well im going at it with a hammer and chisel and circular saw tomorrow, willt ake pics if i remember all going well, see how good a job i can do with it all.

  7. #7
    Black Cat is offline 1K Club Member
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    Fitting the new boards will require a little finessing as new boards have a thicker level above the groove than old boards do, to allow for more heavy-handed sanding. You need to cut the bottom tongue of the groove out, slot the tongue into the groove of the old board then ease the new board into position - it worked for me! As new boards will be higher than old boards you can either chisel or sand to get a matched level, depending on how great the difference is ...

  8. #8
    Eli's Avatar
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    or chuck them through a thickness planer to get close before install.......
    Do nothing, stay ahead

  9. #9
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    Ashore is offline Retired Marine Engineer 1K Club Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Cat View Post
    Fitting the new boards will require a little finessing as new boards have a thicker level above the groove than old boards do, to allow for more heavy-handed sanding. You need to cut the bottom tongue of the groove out, slot the tongue into the groove of the old board then ease the new board into position - it worked for me! As new boards will be higher than old boards you can either chisel or sand to get a matched level, depending on how great the difference is ...
    .
    Ashore




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  10. #10
    wozzzzza is offline 1K Club Member
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    yep thats what i have done, pics coming when job complete, ive rpelaced about 15 of the suckers, drill the ends, run circular saw through them, knock them out and chisel ends square and slot new board in. ive got good at doing this. no termites found yet either.

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