- 31st Mar 2013, 12:01 PM #1
Terrified! Can't bring myself to apply Monothane 45 Gloss to pine floors
I had my pine floors sanded some months ago, and since then have been avoiding the tin of Monothane 45 Gloss that sits unopened in the corner.
The instructions on the tin say to apply three coats with a mohair roller. I feel extremely unsupported by these meagre instructions, and can't muster the confidence to start. I assume I use a regular painting tray with the roller? What else do I need to know? The tin also mentions that thinning may be required, but what are the products that I can use to achieve desired consistency?
Any tips/things I need to know? Someone please give me a hard shove in the right direction!!!
- 1st Apr 2013, 02:18 PM #2
Applying poly to your floor is not that difficult if you follow a few basic rules.....
Ensure floor is clean and dust free,cut in along the length of a single board against the wall and across 2-3 board ends,use your roller to fill in these boards over their length,then repeat for the rest of the room.I would use a new roller sleeve for 2nd and 3rd coats to avoid any dirt pickup.The thinning agent will be the same as the recommended clean up solvent referred to on the can instructions.
If in doubt ring the manufacturer for additional advice (number should be on the can).
- 4th Apr 2013, 10:42 AM #3
Hi Hulbs, We are here to help. Most of all DONT PANIC, WE can do that for you as well LOL.
Coating a floor is not as hard as you may think. You will need some basic tools.
- 1 x 230mmwide Mohair paint roller (Bunnings or paint store)
- 1 x 230mm roller cage (Bunnings or same paint store)
- 1 x painters pole (This will screw onto the handle of the roller cage so that you van stand up while coating the floor. (Timber one is good)
- 1 x 70mm cutting in paint brush. ( They are called cutters or simply cutting in Brush)
- 1 x cleaners plastic bucket
- 1 x 2 lt Plastic milk bottle cut like this:This will be used to hold your brush while you are cutting in the edges of the rooms.
And you will need some minerial turps. About 5 Lt is good.
- The first thing you do is to vacum the floor at least twice to make sure that there is no dust on the floor.then
- Pour about 3 lt into the cleaners bucket and about 1 lt into your cut down milk container, then
- You and your friend will go to the first room at the Furtherest point in the house. You will be working toward the exit .
- Then either you or your friend will dip the brush into the urethane in the milk carton and paint around the wall very quickly and about 100mm wide. It is the same as if you were going to paint a wall. The you take your rollet with the pole attached and dip it into the cleaners bucket that has the urethane in it. Start against the wall and paint the floor the same as you would a wall. Starting at one end and painting with and along the grain.
- Do the same process for each room. At this stage you can leave the windows open so you have ventalation.
- make suse there are no puddles, and be neat when you paint the floor.
- When you are all done. Pour any left overs back into the tin and then
- Wash your Buckets, roller and brushes in the turps. When the are sort of clean, then pour about 1 lt int the cleaners bucket and soak the roller and brushes while the first coat is drying. It will take about 5 hours to dry.
- After it is dry, repeat the same process of Vacumming and coating as you did before. Dont worry about sanding in between coats at this stage. Just coat over the top of the other one. Allow to dry over night.
- The next day is going to be a big one. You will need :
- 1 x random orbital sander ( 150mm dia) hire shop or friend
- at least 30 sanding discs (120 grit) to fit the orbital sander.
- Get down on your hands and knees and lightly sand the whole floor. Dont press to hard, you dont want to remove any layers. You only want to lightly sand it, so the next coat will grip .
- Then once you have done that. , close the windows so there is no airflow, then vacumm three times and coat the floor as you did as the ones before.
- Your finished now, Let it dry for one day before walking in.
- 4th Apr 2013, 11:14 AM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2008
Not meaning to cut in on Hulbs thread but just have a question in relation to this.
Larry can you use this technique when using Synteko Classic?
I mainly refer to cutting in around the whole room first. When using Synteko Classic do you have enough time to maintain a wet edge?
Also would you modify this if working alone?
- 4th Apr 2013, 12:01 PM #5
Hi , yes you can, but i would use a chem mask when using clais for the first time, it is very strong in toxic fume. If your working alone, then its best to only cut in about a metre along the wall at both ends only, that will give you time to coat that section without any wetedge markes forming. It may be also best to include a wetting agent or a wet edge extender to help prolong the drying so that it is easly worked with. I still use Wet edge extender sometimes. And i am very fast at coating, but i still do use it.
- 4th Apr 2013, 12:43 PM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2008
Out of interest, I know with the classic its about 24 hours after last coat before light use of the floor again but is this enough time allowed when bringing young children back in (9 month old)?
Wife wants me to finish floors at home but bit worried about the little boy!
- 4th Apr 2013, 07:20 PM #7
Yes, 24 hours is fine but if you can leave it another day or so with windows open, that would be better.
- 4th Apr 2013, 08:13 PM #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2008
- 5th Apr 2013, 10:27 PM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
How does this product compare to Integrain Ultrafloor (water based polyurethane)?
- 6th Apr 2013, 08:25 AM #10
We always specify Intergrain 2 pak waterbased, dries very quick, finish is fantastic and no toxic chemicals like the non water based coatings.
Do a google search and you will find many article relating to this.
- 6th Apr 2013, 03:48 PM #111K Club Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Melbourne east
Another thing to check for before the final coat as well as closing the windows is gaps under
external doors where dust can blow under into the wet finish. If necessary seal them of with door
snakes or masking tape.
- By Hulbs in forum FLOORINGReplies: 2Last Post: 30th Dec 2012, 06:02 PM
- By jessytiger in forum FLOORINGReplies: 7Last Post: 9th May 2011, 11:02 PM
- By joy.rob53 in forum FLOORINGReplies: 6Last Post: 21st Nov 2009, 09:07 PM
- By colonel1 in forum FLOORINGReplies: 4Last Post: 18th Sep 2008, 09:25 PM
- By JontyG in forum FLOORINGReplies: 4Last Post: 21st Sep 2007, 07:27 PM