Hi there,

Long time lurker, first time poster. After lurking and researching for about a year I think I am finally ready to take the plunge and build my pergola over my xmas vacation. I am starting with what I hope will be an easy one in preparation for the "big" one. I would appreciate any opinions from informed people. So I guess I should give specifics:

The pergola is going to be 6.5 metres with a 1.9 metre span, located on a raised veranda which already has a handrail in place. It will be attaching to the timber facia of my house by joist hangers. The veranda is a thick concrete slab. I plan to have the pergola supported by 3 posts, each 90 x 90 (H4 RGH F7, from Bunnings), so there will be a gap of 3.25 metres between each post. I plan to bolt the posts to the concrete slab using pryda "Bolt Down Post Hangers" and those expanding bolt thingies (those brassy looking things with the nut - "Locksons" ?).

The rafters (there will be 12 of them) will be spanning 1.9m and I think I will use 90 x 45 or 70 x 45 ( H3 RGH F5). They will be 650mm apart and will have a 5 degree pitch. I dont know what size beam to use, the tables in my Alan Staines pergola book doesn't go down to rafter spans of 1.9m. Any recommendations?

The pergola is going to be covered in laser-lite tinted plastic, but if that introduces huge problems I am willing to use shade cloth instead but that wouldbe a last resort because shade cloth doesnt seem to be much cheaper than a rain proof roof.

So I guess I should actually ask some questions-
1) what size beam should I use
2) are my timber choices for rafters and posts correct? I don't know what the codes really mean, but I figure as long as they are "treated pine" its all good since they are not going to be anywhere near dirt or termites. The timbers I listed are just what I could find at my local Bunnings.
3) what type and size of fixings should I use to bolt the posts down?
4) do I need to do anything special to paint this kind of timber, or is it just a matter of slapping on paint until I am happy with the results?
5) the pergola will only be attached to thehouse on one side. Should I use knee braces to keep the frame sturdy?

I have attached pictures of the veranda, the facia and one of the corners I will be bolting the posts onto. If you have any comments or advice I would appreciate it.

Attached Thumbnails

     

Mr Spud,

I'm not qualified on the structural side but did have a thought on the Laserlite. Some people will recommend colourbond, I'm not a fan of it as it blocks too much light (even though you have a short span).

I have used smokey tint (VERY hot underneath on a hot day) but have found the white tint pretty good. If you read the specs I think you'll find the white tint lets in the most light and keeps out the most heat. I like it.

Murray

__________________
Remember the 7 p's.
Proper prior planning prevents piss poor performance.

I agree with Murray on the white laserlite (called OPAL), we're very happy with it.

As far as securing your posts to the concrete balcony, I would consider chemsetting them rather than dyna bolts or loxins, as these expand in order to grip, but can crack concrete when used close to an edge.

Thanks for the replies.

I will be leaving the handrail in place for the time being but I will eventually replace it when funds permit!

Thanks for the advice about the laserlite. I had assumed that the smokey tint would keep everything cool but I guess a paler colour would fit in with the paint scheme of the house anyway, so I will look into this OPAL stuff. What is meant by a combo of colourbond and laserlite? Do you mean like alternating between the two so you get fullshade/part shade/full shade and so on ?

Chemical bonding for bolting the stirrups to the concrete - Is this something I can pick up at Bunnings, or more of a specialist product? Is there a significant wait for it to set, or just overnight? I was also concerned about the concrete cracking as it will be pretty close to the edge.

I was also considering the ledger on the facia. Would it be enough to drive large screws through the ledger, into the facia and then into the end of the house rafter (I'm thinking of those long galvanised 1/4" screws with the hex-head), as well as fixing it along the facia now and then, or would I have to access the house rafter itself and use one of those brackets? I was hoping that the span was small enough to avoid having to access the house's rafters because although the roof is iron it is not the kind you can just fold back (50 years old, very thick). If I do need to add serious facia reenforcement, is it feasible to just remove the eaves linings and access the house's rafter from beneath?

Never mind, I got it finished. Here it is in all it's majesty:



For those considering a DIY pergola, I would highly recommend it. It actually wasn't difficult, but it was truly a hell of a lot of work, even for such a small pergola. But a very satisfying project.

Just a couple of questions:
1. What size did you end up using for the beams & rafters? I have a similar sized area (7.6 metres long & 2.13 metres wide with a 22 degree pitch) which I'm hoping to do soon...

2. Did you paint the timbers first or built first then painted afterwards?

3. Did you get really straight rougher header or had to hand pick from the lot at Bunnings?

Thanks for sharing the end result! Looks really good!

Thanks for the compliment!

From memory, these were the sizes I went with:
rafters : 90 x 45
battons : 70 x 35
beams : 140 x 45 (listed in my spreadsheet as 140 x 90 but I think that is a typo)

I don't know how these timber sizes measure up to regulations but the whole thing is very sturdy and it was quite happy to have my 120kg body standing on top of it without making so much as a creaking noise. I believe the beam should have been a larger size by regulations, but it really would have been overkill. I followed the advice above and spaced the rafters so that they would line up with the joins in the roofing sheets. We ended up going for corrugated zinc roofing and it didnt turn out too dark or cold, I guess because the span is so small that it allows a decent amount of ambient sunlight to still permeate the area (if you get my drift).

I bought everything from my local bunnings, just picked out the straightest sections I could find and got them to cut it. I did pre-paint everything before assembling and I think it did save me a lot of work, although in some cases I laid the pre-painted timber on the ground where I was working and sawdust got stuck to it even though the paint was dry, so be careful where you keep your painted timber. Avoid stepping on it also, I had to paint over many footprints

Here is a break down of what everything cost. I was a little over budget but for $791 I am quite happy.

Satisfyin' ain't it!

__________________
Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

hi all.. i know this is an old post and congrats on the great looking pergola!!! .. i just had a question. Im doing a similar leng 7meters. I noticed yours was 6.5.. timber yard tells me the longest beam they had was 6meters.. just wondering was your beam one piece?? or did you join it in the middle post and if so how did you join it? do you have any pics of the front side?

I guess MY question is, if my local timber yards tell me 6meters is the longest beam.. how would i attach a beam to the middle post in my case.. 2 x 3.5m beams? notch out an L shape on the post and butt them together? then perhaps use timber for bracing on either side of the post? or attach to opposite sides of the post? or perhaps use a full 6meter beam across corner and middle post but will be short by 1meter to the end post , woudl there be a way to bolt on another piece to extend that last meter.. which sounds dodgy if you ask me but it maybe an acceptable solution..

Im fixing up an existing 7 x 5.4meter carport, currently the direction of the roof sheeting is running parralel to the 7meter length .. which is a world of pain for me (wont get into details) so ive decided to run the water along the 5.4 meter side off onto the garden/grass etc.. considering the roof sheeting is 5.4 meters anyway and my new rafters are 5.4 it works out well this way also the slope will be less then over a distance of 7meters.. but now that im changing the direction of the sheeting will mean my rafters will have to run in the other direction therefore my "beams" will be along the 7meter length ... where as before my 3 beams (the thickest being in the middle) were parallel to the 5.4 meter length .. if that makes sense .. for stength im moving the frame structure inside the 7x 5.4 (so something like 6.5x 4.2) so i will have some over hang but will also shorten the rafter span in the middle and provide more strength twards the middle of the 5.4 meter length.

i prob should start my own thread but it was more a question on your 6.5 meter beam

i ordered a 7.2m F/J Pre-primed 138X42mm Treated Pine Beam from Hudsons.. So yes it is possible to get a beam longer then 6m