I am planning the renovation of our bathroom and that includes closing off a window and other large opening in one of the walls. I thought the easy way would be to just put villaboard over the entire wall (4.2m long x 3.4m high) rather than bricking and plastering.
Will I need to put up a frame on the wall to fix the board to or can I adhere the board direct to the wall and just put a support frame in the openings I am closing? I intend to tile to 2.0 m
Is there likely to be any problem where the villaboard meets the 2 end walls?

Regards
Juan

Delete all reference.
I have spoken to James Hardie Customer support and they do not approve the direct adhesion of villaboard to masonary walls.
Cheers
Juan

But you shouldn't need a full frame ... just screw some battens to the bricks and then attach the villaboard to that? Plaster would be even easier if it's isn't in the shower recess.

that surprises me as thats exactly what they do in high rises ,using dobs of adhesive on the block walls and appling sheets directly ,they also use a long straight edge to push the sheet into the adhesive to keep the sheet flat

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kind regards
tom armstrong
www.kitcheninabox.com.au
Flat Packed kitchens to the world

We've recently done this (villaboard to masonry). According to a friend who's a tiler, if you don't want to use battens, you can join it to a(straight) wall with a series of screws in wall plugs (or spaghetti). Basically you should use as many as you would nails in battens.

I did this, and recessed the heads by lightly and partially pre-drilling with a large diameter drill bit, then drilling through this with the masonry drill bit (say 5mm). Whack a plug in, tap it into the masonry, and then insert a screw.

If you want to tile over it, or just make sure it's waterproof, buy some of the blue under-tile preparation and paint over it.

The reason you can't glue it (with stud adhesive, cornice cement and so on) is that water from the bathroom penetrates the porous villaboard and detaches the glue. Good luck with it mate.

I just lifted this straight out of the 20 page Installation Brochure....
You can download the brochure from the Hardy's website

MASONRY/CONCRETE/AAC

Always ensure the substrate is given adequate time to dry out before
installation of Villaboard lining. The wall surface must be clean, dry and
free of any material that will reduce an effective bond (e.g. dust, loose
paint, oil, drummy render, waterproofing or other agents, etc).
Chase walls, install services and secure to wall prior to fixing
Villaboard lining.

MASONRY/CONCRETE/AAC TOLERANCES

Cut Villaboard lining approximately 15mm less than floor to ceiling height
to allow for building tolerances. Ensure a 5-10mm building tolerance gap
is provided at the floor and ceiling junctions with the Villaboard lining. See
Page 10 for specific substrate requirements.

FIXING TO MASONRY/CONCRETE/AAC

Villaboard lining can be installed over masonry, concrete and Aerated
Autoclaved Cement (AAC) substrates by following the requirements in
Table 5 below.

TABLE 5

FIXING METHOD SELECTION

METHOD ____________ SUBSTRATE _________________ APPLICATION

Batten/furring channels _ Masonry/concrete AAC blocks _ Tiled/untiled wet/dry areas with flat or uneven substrate.
AAC fixing ____________ AAC ______________________ Untiled wet/dry areas.

AUTOCLAVED AERATED CONCRETE (AAC)

NOTE:

Not suitable for tiled applications.
1. Chase walls, install and secure services.
2. Install Villaboard lining, abutting edges of adjacent sheets.
3. Drive the AAC fasteners through the Villaboard lining into the wall
until the fastener head is neatly bedded below the Villaboard lining
surface.
4. Only for standard grade AAC blocks of 500kg per cubic metre density.

NOTE

Use only suitable fasteners recommended by AAC manufacturer for fixing
Villaboard lining.

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