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Preparation for Bath Hob for Tiling....

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  1. #1
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    Default Preparation for Bath Hob for Tiling....

    I was told you need a "smooth finish" for tiling on the bath hob.
    Spen some time laying these bricks (pictured) but not sure if should still line with villaboard to complete and keep in line with rest of the room.
    Finish is within a couple of mm either way, but not sure if the mortar will prevent a good adhesion or not.
    I have some villaboard left over - but how would I stick it?

    b22b
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails imag0142sml.jpg  

  2. #2
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    A couple of tubes of Bostich Caulking Compound will hold it, just make the new sheet bit smaller than existing so that wen the waterproofing membrane is added it will have rounded corners and be the right measurement.
    The water proofing will add to the bonding.

    That bath looks like it's island mounted, sitting on top of an overhang. Did you manage to install a water stop around the edge to prevent water getting under the bath?

    If not you can Sikaflex some PVC angle under the edge lip by running a bead along the the inside of the angle then roll it under the lip, then drop the bath it's resting point and after the first bead of sika has cured, apply another bead along the outward facing part of the angle and spread the sika over the angle and onto the brickwork to act as a water stop. The tiles will but up the this when tiling.
    Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
    http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html

  3. #3
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    Default Are you saying.....

    My bricklaying is not up to professional standards?..;>)....or is this probably a good precaution given the possible "chalky" nature of the substrate?

    I've attached a detail schem and close up of my hob/bath construction to better explain the finish. I did stuff up a little as to get the level correct I chose (at the last minute) to turn a brick on its side and this only allowed a 20mm lip instead of a 60mm lip. Like the idea of the plastic channel and sikaflex - although given brick hob and concrete bathroom floor, a little water down the back here wouldnt be devastating.

    b22b
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails imag0174sml.jpg  

  4. #4
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    You could install the PVC angle at the inside edge of the top tile as long as the angle is higher than the tile to stop water flowing under the bath.

    Also not, the top tile should have a fall to the outside way from the bath lip.
    Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
    http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html

  5. #5
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    Default Increased bath hob and water stop installed....

    Added some more hob to extend to the vanity.
    Eurathaned all "water proof" 5mm area joints and gaps. Not sure how long to leave before going over with water based membrane. Hoping only 24rs.

    Installed aluminium water stop. Had a look at the plastic but liked the rigidity of the aluminium for settting out. Made sure all the angle was exactly the same distance from the lip of the bath, hopefully making tile cutting/placement more predicatable - as I'm going to have these tile honed on the edge and not use the standard aluminium edging. It takes 10 days to have them honed, so I need to work out how much, cut them and get them away for honing.

    Still need to eurathane the strip - since it liked to move around, couldnt until it dried.


    b22b
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails imag0186sml.jpg   imag0181small.jpg  

  6. #6
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    So the small gaps under the alloy water stops have been sealed up then?

    Also run a bead up each corner to stop and leaks if not already done.

    I like the extra width at the end, takes away the normal box look.

    Good luck.
    Growing old is compulsory, growing up is not.
    http://www.wet-seal.com.au/waterproofing/locations.html

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