I haven't tried the Wattyl version yet- it's been a case of when you are on something good- stick to it. I have talked to the sales people at my local Wattyl trade center about their product (which btw they don't actually market as a 3 in 1 product- just claim that it will do the same thing)
Dulux do a similar product as well but the Taubmans has
much better adhesion.
With the Wattly unproven to me, my money would go on (and continues to at the moment) the taubmans- and that is the only product that I can actually recomend. IT WORKS.
To me, smell is not a major issue. I actually like the smell of a freshly painted house (acrylic that is), and as you are talking undercoat here, then it really doesn't matter- its gonna get covered anyway. If you believe the promo that the Wattyl oil based enamel doesn't smell- well give it a try. Maybe it might smell a little less... maybe just different.
Again, I am a creature of habit, and haven't yet tried the water-based enamel.
So long as you try to do all your enamel in one or two big hits, then I don't find clean up much of an issue.
About the sanding, a lot of skirting boards I have seen with old varnish have those sort of raised burrs or spikey bits of grain coming out. You will difinately wanto remove any of these high spots as they will stand out a lot. I would have both 120 and 80 at hand, it can't hurt. With low spots and holes, well, that is where judgement and the two meter rule might have to come in- just remember that one particular hole or bump is going to look a lot nicer at 2 meters in a dark varnish that it will in a white high gloss enamel
. The level of gloss in your enamel often does dictate the level of prep- obviously high gloss is going to want a lot more prep work (I would be more inclined to a semi-gloss- but just re-read that you are using satin- so that is nice and forgiving). Whatever you do, do not skip your gap-filling along the top of skirtings, and other woodwork joins (for that matter, any cracks in corners such as ceiling features).
I use the Nordsjo fillers.
The wood filler for wood, the Uni filler or Fine filler for walls/ceilings (and then just any old gap-filler for cracks)
Don't think about getting talked into some wonder product filler that is quick dry, and/or can be used to fill everything... they are without exception in my experience a huge waste of money and a huge waste of time. I helped a mate paint his fathers house a few months ago, and in a moment of stupidity (he knew better) he used a wonder filler that apparantly could be used on anything. It never dryed properly, sanded like chewing gum, clogged up and ruined your sandpaper and tore out in chunks (requiring re-filling) and seriously turned what would have been a half days work for two into over two days of painfully redoing it.
When you say
Quote:
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Then do a quick clean/dust after sanding.
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I should clarrify what I meant.
For the old way of lots of sanding prep, oil based primer and enamel topcoats, after the sanding we would have to religiously clean and sand- everywhere, everything. Sweep and dust out the whole place completely, probably twice after the air settled again, then we would go around all the woodwork with a pile of turps wettened rags and thoroughly wipe down the lot. If it dried with dust still on it after a wipe test, we would have to do it again...
so compared to that, I describe it as 'not necessarily perfect'... I would not describe it as a 'quick clean/dust after sanding'....
this 3 in 1 coat, is after all the thing that is sticking your new paint to your old surface.
A thorough though not extremely-anal dust and wipe down would be a better description.
Anyway, good luck with it all.
ESP (Easy Surface Prep) -- really no sanding required?? 
. I always look for the easy way but will remember to do a thorough dust and wipe-down after sanding.. thanks.
