I noticed there is a few knowledgeable people here on board and flushing.

I'm trying to find a solution for boarding/claddding timber ( pine ) stud frame then trowel texture coating the board to exterior.

Everywhere I look these days there seems to be fractures straight down the texture at the board joins. What causes this?

What is the best board product and method of flushing for texture coating over?

Thanks in advance

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c2=a2+b2; http://brickandstoneart.blogspot.com

Never used it myself, but I'd be checking out Hardie's site for fixing and flushing specs for their Harditex product (blue board). I'd assume that if used per specifications you wouldn't have any cracking problems. On a related subject, a mate of mine is a painter and render applicator (has about 20 blokes working for him) and he uses a lot of Quickwall"s product without any dramas.

Mick

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Thanks JM

The Quickwall product looks alright.

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c2=a2+b2; http://brickandstoneart.blogspot.com

James Hardie are saying its up to the texture manufacturer to supply the flushing technology.

Weird

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I'm in the process of cladding an external laundry with harditex and plan on using the rockcote textured system.

Is this to the external walls Emptybucketman?

Its a roll on?

I have done plenty of Texture before on rendered brick walls but never boarded.

I really need to flush the board prior to trowel on or

a. The join will definitely crack
b. Its very hard to get a consistent finish over the joins

Ive asked a couple of Gyprock guys but their work has cracked. Ill have to speak to the texture head honchos to see what they recommend.

thanks, found this
http://www.rockcote.com.au/technical/polyrender.html

it blows me away that hardies don't supply the whole solution...

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c2=a2+b2; http://brickandstoneart.blogspot.com

Rockcote have a product for board joints which is flexible and should not crack.

Rockcote Coarse Patch & Fibre Patch.
"Rockcote Coarse Patch & Fibre Patch are flexible, low-shrink patching compounds suitable for setting the joints between cement sheeting"

I suggest the patch first in the joints and then the polymer render over the lot.

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hello,

I think the issue comes down to a couple of things:

1. you never get blueboard fixed to specs, mostly the no. of nails is poor on people's jobs

2. i think the mesh needs to be bedded into the render (polymer/patch whatever) ie. render is applied to rebate and then mesh "bedded" in, this is rarely done, similar with styrene the mesh comes sticky and is stuck on then rendered over

3. you need to do rebates and wall in basically one homogenous run ie. all together, also use the same render to do any further levelling/float coats, use the same render

sure it might cost more but in the long run whats better

you will find the joint area isnt cracked but the outer coat for instance will be

myla

i would give the whole blue board thing a miss... im working for a extension builder at the moment and we only use insuclad or unitex systems now - after numerous call backs to fix cracking blue board, the set joints in blue board cant cope with shrinkage/swellage.

with these foam systems you fix plywood to ya stud wall then fix the foam boards to this then apply yer texture finish with mesh laid in it. havent seen any problems with it yet, another benifit is that it gives a reveal at windows and doors which makes it look more look real brickwork. the foam also gives thermal benefits aswell