| |
 | 
5th Dec 2009, 03:02 PM
|  | Novice | | Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Nsw
Posts: 25
| | Exterior Gap filler hi all, just wanting to know what would be the best product to gap fill timber that gets a hiding from the sun? ive scraped the builders bog out, should i just fill again with flexible builder bog? or use a sikaflex product? gaps up to 5mm 
thanks | 
5th Dec 2009, 04:40 PM
| | | That is never going to hold. How I would do it.
Get a bit of internal plasterboarding corner. Cut to length and drill and screw the corner to the gap. Remove the corner. Now where the screws fit in the wood, countersink the holes. Now get a piece of hardwood and make a countersink hole in it. Get the corner metal and fit the hole over the countersink hole and with a large punch whack a countersink in each hole of the metal.
Check the corner fits then draw a pencil line along both sides of the strip then remove. Stick a piece of blue painters tape along the outsides of the pencil lines. Fill the crack with plumbers clear silicone and run a fine strip on bot sides about 5mil in from the painters tape.
Screw the corner on with countersunk screws. clean any excess silicone, remove tape and paint after a week.
Or theres the fancy way with say a piece 60 sq hardwood on a table saw cut a 50 X 50 out. Roundover the top corner and cove the sides. drill and pin on. | 
5th Dec 2009, 06:19 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: retired
Posts: 1,273
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by rrobor That is never going to hold. How I would do it.
Get a bit of internal plasterboarding corner. Cut to length and drill and screw the corner to the gap. Remove the corner. Now where the screws fit in the wood, countersink the holes. Now get a piece of hardwood and make a countersink hole in it. Get the corner metal and fit the hole over the countersink hole and with a large punch whack a countersink in each hole of the metal.
Check the corner fits then draw a pencil line along both sides of the strip then remove. Stick a piece of blue painters tape along the outsides of the pencil lines. Fill the crack with plumbers clear silicone and run a fine strip on bot sides about 5mil in from the painters tape.
Screw the corner on with countersunk screws. clean any excess silicone, remove tape and paint after a week.
Or theres the fancy way with say a piece 60 sq hardwood on a table saw cut a 50 X 50 out. Roundover the top corner and cove the sides. drill and pin on. | Rob's step by step detailed instructions.............are you using that old strategy of yours again, Rob?
If you haven't the spare 20 hours to follow rob's procedure.....I'd opt for the easy solution and say..........sikaflex it.
Hope that helps | 
5th Dec 2009, 06:53 PM
|  | Novice | | Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Nsw
Posts: 25
| | hahaha i think ive read that 5 times and it still has me beat.
do like the idea of a timber cover strip | 
5th Dec 2009, 07:54 PM
| | | Gees boys its simple, Internal corner strip is thin galvanised angle iron. Now you stick it on the corner with screws. As the screws need to be countersunk you got to have a method to. A / punch the steel and B/ get a countersink in the wood. Like all things if you were doing it, or had the materials, you will find each problem in that explanation is addressed as they arrive when fitting. So please in your minds eye fit the angle, see the issue with screws, see the issue with silicone. Fill that crack with any bonding agent and it will stuff up again and again. Basically this is a plasterboard fix and be treated similar.
Note for below. Agree with all of Master Splinter except the liquid nails. If that is in a frosty area liquid nails will give way in 4 or 5 years. (mirror on tin garage wall just missed my foot) | 
5th Dec 2009, 08:15 PM
|  | Golden Member | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Canberra
Posts: 863
| | I'd slap a length of PVC angle on it if I could find some to match the angle of the join. It would look good if you could match the size/thickness of the nearby window surrounds
Failing that, bend up a strip of aluminium or galvanised steel (the gal strip they sell for internal plasterboard joins might be a good start as you could flatten the bend out to match) and attach with silicone or liquid nails to one side only (leave it free to move, as it will keep doing just that).
__________________ Electrical info on domestic wiring and appliance repair to AS/NZS3000. Only for New Zealanders, as Australians aren't smart enough to do their own! | 
5th Dec 2009, 08:41 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: retired
Posts: 1,273
| | Right, gotch ya.......I now understand..........I think you tried to explain in depth too much the first time.
Probably not a bad idea. | 
6th Dec 2009, 07:08 AM
| | Golden Member | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Sydney
Posts: 650
| | Another option would be to get local roof place to fold some colorbond (same color as windows) and conceal entire corner. Just draw up a profile with dimensions and angle for them and also get them to fold the edges. Fix with pop rivets to frame. |  |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | |
|