Go Back   Renovate Forums > HOME RENOVATION > PLASTERING
Register All Albums FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

USEFUL LINKS

Woodwork Forums

Woodworking Australia

FORUM SEARCH

MY LINKS


FORUM SPONSORS


U-BEAUT POLISHES


IDEAL TOOLS


Professional Wood-

work Supplies


MAKA


C
arroll's Woodcraft
Supplies


Perth Woodschool


STU'S SHED

 

Australian Woodcraft
Galleries

 











Reply
 
LinkBack (2) Thread Tools
  2 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1  
Old 5th Dec 2009, 02:02 PM
Lakeside's Avatar
Novice
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Nsw
Posts: 23
Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future
Default Exterior Gap filler

hi all, just wanting to know what would be the best product to gap fill timber that gets a hiding from the sun? ive scraped the builders bog out, should i just fill again with flexible builder bog? or use a sikaflex product? gaps up to 5mm



thanks
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 5th Dec 2009, 03:40 PM
rrobor
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

That is never going to hold. How I would do it.
Get a bit of internal plasterboarding corner. Cut to length and drill and screw the corner to the gap. Remove the corner. Now where the screws fit in the wood, countersink the holes. Now get a piece of hardwood and make a countersink hole in it. Get the corner metal and fit the hole over the countersink hole and with a large punch whack a countersink in each hole of the metal.
Check the corner fits then draw a pencil line along both sides of the strip then remove. Stick a piece of blue painters tape along the outsides of the pencil lines. Fill the crack with plumbers clear silicone and run a fine strip on bot sides about 5mil in from the painters tape.
Screw the corner on with countersunk screws. clean any excess silicone, remove tape and paint after a week.
Or theres the fancy way with say a piece 60 sq hardwood on a table saw cut a 50 X 50 out. Roundover the top corner and cove the sides. drill and pin on.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 5th Dec 2009, 05:19 PM
Headpin's Avatar
Super Genius
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bellmere, Qld
Posts: 908
Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrobor View Post
That is never going to hold. How I would do it.
Get a bit of internal plasterboarding corner. Cut to length and drill and screw the corner to the gap. Remove the corner. Now where the screws fit in the wood, countersink the holes. Now get a piece of hardwood and make a countersink hole in it. Get the corner metal and fit the hole over the countersink hole and with a large punch whack a countersink in each hole of the metal.
Check the corner fits then draw a pencil line along both sides of the strip then remove. Stick a piece of blue painters tape along the outsides of the pencil lines. Fill the crack with plumbers clear silicone and run a fine strip on bot sides about 5mil in from the painters tape.
Screw the corner on with countersunk screws. clean any excess silicone, remove tape and paint after a week.
Or theres the fancy way with say a piece 60 sq hardwood on a table saw cut a 50 X 50 out. Roundover the top corner and cove the sides. drill and pin on.
Rob's step by step detailed instructions.............are you using that old strategy of yours again, Rob?

If you haven't the spare 20 hours to follow rob's procedure.....I'd opt for the easy solution and say..........sikaflex it.

Hope that helps
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 5th Dec 2009, 05:53 PM
Lakeside's Avatar
Novice
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Nsw
Posts: 23
Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future Lakeside has a brilliant future
Default

hahaha i think ive read that 5 times and it still has me beat.

do like the idea of a timber cover strip
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 5th Dec 2009, 06:54 PM
rrobor
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Gees boys its simple, Internal corner strip is thin galvanised angle iron. Now you stick it on the corner with screws. As the screws need to be countersunk you got to have a method to. A / punch the steel and B/ get a countersink in the wood. Like all things if you were doing it, or had the materials, you will find each problem in that explanation is addressed as they arrive when fitting. So please in your minds eye fit the angle, see the issue with screws, see the issue with silicone. Fill that crack with any bonding agent and it will stuff up again and again. Basically this is a plasterboard fix and be treated similar.
Note for below. Agree with all of Master Splinter except the liquid nails. If that is in a frosty area liquid nails will give way in 4 or 5 years. (mirror on tin garage wall just missed my foot)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 5th Dec 2009, 07:15 PM
Master Splinter's Avatar
Golden Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Canberra
Posts: 664
Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future Master Splinter has a brilliant future
Default

I'd slap a length of PVC angle on it if I could find some to match the angle of the join. It would look good if you could match the size/thickness of the nearby window surrounds

Failing that, bend up a strip of aluminium or galvanised steel (the gal strip they sell for internal plasterboard joins might be a good start as you could flatten the bend out to match) and attach with silicone or liquid nails to one side only (leave it free to move, as it will keep doing just that).
__________________
Electrical info on domestic wiring and appliance repair to AS/NZS3000. Only for New Zealanders, as Australians aren't smart enough to do their own!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 5th Dec 2009, 07:41 PM
Headpin's Avatar
Super Genius
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bellmere, Qld
Posts: 908
Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future Headpin has a brilliant future
Default

Right, gotch ya.......I now understand..........I think you tried to explain in depth too much the first time.

Probably not a bad idea.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 6th Dec 2009, 06:08 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 457
cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future cherub65 has a brilliant future
Default

Another option would be to get local roof place to fold some colorbond (same color as windows) and conceal entire corner. Just draw up a profile with dimensions and angle for them and also get them to fold the edges. Fix with pop rivets to frame.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.renovateforum.com/f208/exterior-gap-filler-84071/
Posted By For Type Date
Exterior Gap filler - Woodwork Forums This thread Refback 9th Dec 2009 11:44 PM
Master Builders Association NSW | Addictomatic This thread Refback 8th Dec 2009 09:46 AM

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Filler for Blueboard? Fr_303 PLASTERING 4 21st Nov 2008 05:08 PM
Flexible gap filler? BigCal FLOORING 5 21st Feb 2008 09:59 PM
Gap Filler Shrinkage Wassy DOORS, WINDOWS, ARCHITRAVES & SKIRTS ETC 14 4th Nov 2007 10:00 AM
Sealing Norsjo Exterior Filler on weatherboards... The Apprentice PAINTING 1 16th Jul 2007 12:56 PM
wood filler db21 GENERAL ODDS N SODS 5 14th Apr 2004 05:05 PM



Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.1