| |
 | 
17th Dec 2007, 02:16 PM
|  | Truth seeker | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
Posts: 191
| | Fixing plasterboard to concrete studs <TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">I'm trying to attach plasterboard to wooden studs but they are as hard as concrete. Tried nails but they just keep bending and when you force them too hard they ruin the plasterboard. Am now using drywall screws, still hard but can be done if I drill a pilot hole. The house is old, the word is very hard, is there an easier/quicker way to attach plasterboard in this situation?
</TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> | 
17th Dec 2007, 02:23 PM
| | Former "lurker" | | Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 103
| | Possibly! You're glueing as well, aren't you? Once that goes off, it will provide a good "hold".
You might try gunning pine battens to the side of every stud. Depends of course, whether this screws up your spacing horribly.
Regards, Adam. | 
17th Dec 2007, 02:31 PM
|  | Truth seeker | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
Posts: 191
| | <TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">G'day Adam, am gluing as well. Got a couple of books out on drywall, it seems in Amercia they don't use glue much, they rely on screws mainly. Fair to say that our wood is a lot harder? I can't imagine doing a whole house with metal fasteners only.
The studs are just close enough to make pine batten addition a little difficult. Really need a right angle drill to get in there as neither of my drills fit well between the studs.
</TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> | 
17th Dec 2007, 03:00 PM
| | quality + reliability | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,976
| | Hmm very hard wood can be a pain. Are you using smooth shank nails or ring shank?
The ring shank nails bend easier than smooth shank. Lot of effort to put in pine battens. Pre drilling would be a pain as well.
Can't say I have ever found timber I could not nail to though.
If all else fails you could glue right up to the join and the edges, then use a plaster block to nail through to pin the board back to the stud until the glue sets.
The glue will hold it ok once set, although I would not recommned glueing only except in these circumstances. By nailing through the block you will not have to nail it all the way and if it bends its no big deal.
Cheers Rod
__________________ Do not use fibreglass mesh tape on butt joins, ceiling joins or fibre cement sheet products EVER GREAT PLASTERING TIPS AT | 
17th Dec 2007, 03:29 PM
|  | Truth seeker | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
Posts: 191
| | <TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">Thanks, Rod. I enjoy reading your posts as they are informative as well as helpful. The house I'm working on has some very hard timber. It is possible though that because of the angle I'm coming in on, I'm not getting enough strength behind the hammer blows. Normally I don't have any problem hammering nails into wood, but in this house, skew nailing is also impossible and hence the idea of pre-drilling. I've noticed that plasterers use a special type of hammer, would that be helpful with harder wood?
</TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> | 
17th Dec 2007, 09:32 PM
|  | Most Valued Member | | Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Timboon VIC AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,753
| | drill a pilot hole 1 size smaller than the nails and knock nails in the holes | 
17th Dec 2007, 10:15 PM
|  | Oink! Oink! | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Sydney Age: 50
Posts: 1,234
| | Just use 20 or 25mm clouts. They'll only need to go into the timber a bit more than 15mm. I'd say that the studs would have to be actually made of concrete to bend clouts that short, and there's no problem with them letting go if the timber's as hard as you say it is.
__________________ Cheers, John Short Stack (my son's band) | 
18th Dec 2007, 12:46 AM
| | quality + reliability | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,976
| | Tiger you can get 2 types of plasterers hammers both have a head that is designed to depress the nail without breaking the paper. You can get them in either a claw hammer or axe head.
While originally the axe head was used for cutting lathes now it is very usefull for levering a sheet or trimming a noggin that sticks out etc.
Unfortunately neither will allow you to knock in a nail any easier.
Cheers
Rod
__________________ Do not use fibreglass mesh tape on butt joins, ceiling joins or fibre cement sheet products EVER GREAT PLASTERING TIPS AT | 
18th Dec 2007, 05:04 AM
| | Trade Painter | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Victoria
Posts: 48
| |  what is it Petrified wood ? | 
18th Dec 2007, 01:23 PM
|  | Truth seeker | | Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
Posts: 191
| | <TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off"></TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off"></TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobba  what is it Petrified wood ? | No, it's harder than that. | 
25th Mar 2008, 11:24 AM
| | Apprentice (new member) | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Kilmore, Victoria
Posts: 19
| | Reviving a slightly old thread - since I have just discovered I have exactly the same problem!
If I absolutely can't get the nails in to the wall, is adhesive-only going to be sufficient? I have just put up the first board (and then realised afterwards that the nails won't go in) so just put a LOT more adhesive behind it, and pinned in a heap of blocks to hold it in place till the glue goes off. Will this board stay on the wall once I remove the blocks, or should I be looking at hiring a nail gun or something?
Am not going to fit any more boards until I find out whether just adhesive is going to be sufficient - what a pain!! Am starting to realise this renovation lark is NEVER easy - WHY didn't I buy a shiny new house | 
26th Mar 2008, 11:43 AM
| | quality + reliability | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,976
| | The boards will stay in place.
__________________ Do not use fibreglass mesh tape on butt joins, ceiling joins or fibre cement sheet products EVER GREAT PLASTERING TIPS AT | 
28th Mar 2008, 11:38 AM
| | Apprentice (new member) | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Kilmore, Victoria
Posts: 19
| | Well what do you know - I took the blocks out and the board stayed up! Guess I'll be gluing all round then - anyone want to buy a kilo of plasterboard nails (joke!) |  |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | |
|