Hi Folks,
I am gyprocking a room and have run into a small problem undoubtably caused by my inexperience.
The gyprock sheets that I used on the walls have a rebate top and bottom, where the two sheets meet in the middle of the wall this is great, helps get the joint looking great.
The problem arises at the bottom where the trim will go. The gyprock is not flat thanks to the rebate and the trim will sit at an angle.
Do you normally fill the bottom rebate with jointing cement to give a flat surface to hold the trim or am I missing something obviouse?
Terry

Are you running a skirting board aorund the floor? Normally that would cover the rebate.

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Hi,

Yes, it is the skirting that I am worried about. The skirting won't sit flat because of the rebate.

Terry

I have found it much easier to put the plasterboard in vertically, especially on long walls where butt joints would be required otherwise. I tried it a few years ago and found it far better to handle. I reckon the plasterboard comes in ceiling height lengths for a reason. It is fine as long as you have a flat wall (makes you plane a few studs) and some joints require extra reinforcement but on the whole it is fine. I would not recommend it on unstable soils or areas of high humidity as the risk of cracking would probably be higher with less joint support but I have not had problems in years.

If you have got an issue, I guess you will have to pack out the bottom of the skirting.

Cheers
Ben

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My glue tastes funny.

USe a wider skirting board?

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terrym if your using 65 or 90 skirting it wont be a problem.
we generally get the plasterers to sit the wall sheets on 2 thicknesses of plasterboard offcut so that the sheet is 20mm off the floor & then the chippies run an offcut of plaster along the bottom plate as they fix the skirt.
if the plasters right to the floor you can use masonite packing strips on the face of the rebate- just stick them vertically on the floor against the plaster & nail the skirt. the alternative is to cut out the plaster at points & put in a full 10mm piece.(dont cut the sheet above the bottom plate)

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Peter Clarkson

www.ausdesign.com.au

This information is intended to provide general information only.
It does not purport to be a comprehensive advice.

You should hang plasterboard horizontally so that the joins are supported by the studs. If you hang it vertically, you need to back block it or it will crack.

Just fix the skirting straight over the recessed edge and pin it towards the top so that it is not pushed back into the recess. If it's pinned at the top and sitting flush on the floor it will be OK. Don't pin it near the bottom.

Yeah pinned at the top is best, use a packer if you feel you need, there is no need to nail into the packer. Try this site for more helpful info


http://www.magnetmart.com.au/images/...n2_gyprock.pdf

trade secret...

Just use a series of clouts nailed under the bottom plate, spaced around 1000mm and leave them proud around 2-3mm.
Run a bead of PVA glue along the back top edge of your skirting and nail close to the top edge into the studs (if location not marked, use a small nail tapped through the gyprock to find them, below height of skirting)

Being an extremely amateur gyprocker with absolutely no knowledge of tricks of the trade, I've cut the recess off the floor level sheets before fixing them to the wall. It's an old house with high ceilings, so "standard" wall heights don't apply.

Didn't know there were other ways of dealing with the sloping bit.

It is general prictice in the trade to remove the beveled edge. As this elemenates any chance of your skirting from rolling under, as the skirting now has a flat surface to sit against. It is also a common practice to place an off cut of the plaster board at either end of the sheet on the ground when hanging said to elevate 10mm, as this stops the sheet from rocking on a possible high spot. Fix the sheet at the top edge 1st then remove the packers. If you nail the sheet to the bottom plate the packers are hard to remove and damage to the sheet is possible.

Can't be too general, have yet to see anyone do that down here. They usually work the ceiling height to be multiples of a standard sheet width, so 2400 = 2 x 1200. If you cut the edge off the sheet, that doesn't work any more. I'll ask the plasterer next time I see him....

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"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."