Plaster board

[sidk]

Hi guys
I am new to this so I hope Iam doing this right.
I must say I have had a lot of good info in reading the various Q&A's over time.

My question is I have been putting up plaster board, haven't done very much before & this time it was very hot. I applied the paper tape in the first coat of jointing & after it dried. I have a number of paper irregularities,where it appears to have parted company from the board.

I went to the Boral site & finally found mention of this happening in very hot weather.
I could not find solution to the problem on the site.

Has anybody experienced this before & how do I correct it
Help
thanks Sidk

[ozwinner]

Hi Sid
I have done a little plastering, not my fave' job.
Is the tape in the corner?
If so, I just cut the tape that has come away and apply more bog.
You have to give it a couple of coats of bog at least.
If its in the wall join, I always use bandage there, same thing.
Always apply a couple of coats of bog and feather it out to the edge, most times you can hide the muckups with a couple of coats.
I used to worry about plastering, but with a sanding block and more bog everything comes good in the end.

Cheers, Al the Bogger.

[silentC]

Sidk,

Assuming that you're using perforated paper tape and a powdered form of jointing cement, it's likely by the sound of it that either the jointing cement was drying out too much before you applied it, or you weren't using enough.

With the paper tape, you usually put a bed of cement over the join, then bed the tape into it with a knife, then apply another coat of cement over that, making sure you fill the recess so it's flush with the surface of the sheet. I've had the tape lift when the cement was too dry and the paper didn't bond properly to the base coat.

CSR recommend that you don't do it on a hot day. If you have to, mix up small quantities of cement at a time and you can also brush the surface with water before applying the cement.

Another alternative is to use an adhesive jointing tape which you just stick onto the join before applying the base coat.

Hope this helps.

[soundman]

Two things I have found helpfull

mesh tape behaves a lot better than paper in flat joins It is posible to put more than one layer of mesh tape in a join or a hole to provied reinforcing

pre mixed jointing paste, the correct consistancy every time & no mixing.


a couple of things I realised

If you want a realy good jointing job you may need 3 or four runs at it rather than the stated two.

one to fill the join (as recomended)

sand

one to level up (as recomended)

sand

one to level up where it sank, or you oversanded , or under filled ect.

sand

one to get it just right.

24 hours between coats

It took me a week to fix up some dodgy joints & dings in my bath room before I started painting.

Remember with plaster...... It all filler.!!!

[Barry_White]

Hi

What Soundman says is correct and the sticky mesh tape is easier to use than paper tape.

I did a 5 Bedroom 20 Square house using this method and by the time I finished I was pretty good at it.

But there is one MAJOR problem is that with the mesh tape is that you can get a fine hairline crack along the sheet join that wont occur with paper tape.

Regards


Bazza

[arose62]

When you get to sanding, an alternative is to rub gently with a damp sponge.

Nowhere near the dusty mess of using sandpaper!!!

Same tip when doing cornices - when the cement is pretty nearly set, dip a small brush in some water, and brush along the ceiling-cornice and wall-cornice joins. Smooths them out wonderfully, and again, NO DUST.

Cheers,
Andrew

[sidk]

Hi guys
Sorry i haven't been around for a while but I have been plastering walls.
Thanks for your advice
It helped greatly
I have just completed 4 rooms ( my Son & other half did help.....a bit!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
took us around 6 weeks from start to finish -fully painted.
your advice was excellent SILENTC your comments on the heat made me realize that was the problem
so for the next guy here are a few clues

#1 If hot (Bisbane in december / January)
Wet the plasterboard down with water & a Chux - use water not just damp

#2
do the same with the paper tape after you have applied it & before you have applied the over coat (still the first coat)

#3 If the paper dries up off the plasterboard, wet again prior to second coat
If ripple is still there after second coat dries, trim out & rebog.

#4 use the premix bog it is a lot better. ( Soundman recommended this also)

#5Again sound man Yes you have to do 4 coats to get a good finiish.
I am very pleased with the final finish. I have only one small (about 1.5inche0 of slight bubble after I go vicious & trimmed some of the bubbles out.


Now a few extra points I have found in this job

take care to put screw or nails in the area that the cover strips are going over ie cornices or archratraves I did miss & few & as you go to paint you have to stop & bog. A bit of care saves a lot of heartburn. It is easy to screw out to wide from the doors frames etc

If you are patching old walls to new plasterboard don't cheapskate. It take more time trying to fill & sand & trying to match than it does to cut the old board away at a convenient corner & fit new board.

Finally - when you are fitting new board It is easy to cut board so you have a sloppy fit.
BUT you have to fill this sloppiness.
So if you have big gaps at the butt joint corners you have to fill & sand & fill etc
force yourself to measure & cut to a nice neat fit it save a hell of a lot of finishing time.
& I HATE SANDING so thanks to arose 62 i will try your suggestion

So its off to the next project so you will hear more
I think I am now refurbishing an elevated concrete deck
regards
Sid

[Ivan in Oz]

Apologies for being a little further OT.
I'm not even using timber framing.
What is the Weight/M2 of 13mm Plasterboard.

I'm looking to handle 4.8M lengths, so as to do no joints.
3.6M lengths of 10mm for the ceiling were.....................
A little difficult.

The wall 'should' be easier

Thanking You.