Thread: Stud framing

Hei Guys,
I am about to undertake my first job building some stud frame type walls.

What I am doing is enclosing a patio to keep a cat in, looks aren't really a consideration and the covering will just be chook wire and shadecloth.

I know that structural stud walls have the studs about 300mm apart, can someone tell me what sort of distance I can go if there's no structural load - essentially the walls are just to support the chook wire and shade cloth.

Cheers
Paul

Originally Posted by smidsy

Hei Guys,
I am about to undertake my first job building some stud frame type walls.

What I am doing is enclosing a patio to keep a cat in, looks aren't really a consideration and the covering will just be chook wire and shadecloth.

I know that structural stud walls have the studs about 300mm apart, can someone tell me what sort of distance I can go if there's no structural load - essentially the walls are just to support the chook wire and shade cloth.

Cheers
Paul

300mm?:eek: :eek: 450mm, 500mm or 600mm are the three spacings used. For chook wire go 600mm unless that leaves too much flex or play in the wire itself. If that is of concern to you, either reduce the spacing or add some horizontal battens or an extra row or two of noggings.

As it won't be structural, there is no need to go overboard with it. 70x35 would be quite sufficient but what you use will depend on what is available in your area.

HTH,

Mark.

For chook wire you could easily go to 1800mm and not worry about much flex if you stretch the wire tight to the frame. If it is only a cat and it's coming out later I'd just use pine commons 90 x 35 and space about 900mm, I'm assuming there is no load on any part of the frame. But I'm no expert, another way to stop a cat wondering is a brick and heavy bag, or a quick holiday with Wongo if you can believe some of the other threads.

Hei Guys,
From the sound of it the way to go is start at 1800 and then add more if necessary.

One last question:
A nail gun is going to cost me $95 plus a roll of nails, is there any other way to make the frames, screws I don't see as an option because of going in at an angle and I don't have the skill or stamina (I work in an office in my other life) to nail this by hand.

Thanks guys
Paul

There are a number of fasteners you can use, either 75mm phillips head or if you want plenty of bite there is a hex headed heavier guage screw which will pull things up tight. I'd drill through hte first piece and allow the screw to draw everything up tight. Really using pine a hammer is still pretty easy and wont tax your arms that much.

Originally Posted by smidsy

Hei Guys,
From the sound of it the way to go is start at 1800 and then add more if necessary.

One last question:
A nail gun is going to cost me $95 plus a roll of nails, is there any other way to make the frames, screws I don't see as an option because of going in at an angle and I don't have the skill or stamina (I work in an office in my other life) to nail this by hand.

Thanks guys
Paul

Aw, c'mon, Paul.:eek: Sounds like you've got about a dozen studs to nail, 2 dozen at most. Its not that hard, not even for a paper shuffler. Pre-drill the holes if you feel you must and remember, you'll be nailing into pine not hardwood.

I'd offer to lend you my framing hammer, but it sounds like you'd have trouble lifting it let alone hitting a nail with it.

Nah, just give it a go. I'm confident you'll surprise yourself and derive enormous satisfaction from overcoming what seems at present, to be an insurrmountable obstacle.

Cheers,

Mark.

Originally Posted by smidsy

A nail gun is going to cost me $95 plus a roll of nails, is there any other way to make the frames, screws I don't see as an option because of going in at an angle and I don't have the skill or stamina (I work in an office in my other life) to nail this by hand.l

I gather you're planning on building 'em in situ? That's the only time you'd have to stagger-nail... 'tis much easier to simply build the frames flat on the ground (driveway, patio, wherever) and lift 'em into place for final fastening. Provided you have the access, of course, and take the time to measure properly..

That'll allow you to simply drive the nails (or screw ) from the other side of the top/bottom plates straight into the ends of the studs and, as a bonus, you wouldn't see the "craters" from hammer misses once the frame is in place.

It doesn't take skill or stamina to drive the odd few nails... they don't become concerns unless you're in competition with a nail-gun.