Activity Stream

It is very common for water pipes to be a disturbance as water rushes through them. Simply a matter of isolating the pipes to whatever they are held against.

If you cannot see it then you cannot be sure that there are no flow restrictors or other devices producing the noise. Use a stethoscope to pinpoint source of the noise, then borescope to investigate.

If you can't access the source of the noise I don't know how you will isolate it.

looks ok to me, once grass grows no dirt will go in there.

no idea its in a gyprocked stack.

Hi there, I used a product recently which sounds like it could be pretty similar. The product I used was Shower Plug, which is used for sealing showers/tiles/grout/masonry/concrete - it is applied, then any excess is meant to be wiped off. If not wiped off it can apparently form a white residue, which they advise can be removed with mineral turpentine.

tkx, you got me thinking...so back of envelope calcs from Robot Trading published prices seem to come out at approx 4k cheaper before further trade discounts are applied. 8x4m shed, pitched roof @15degrees, 3m high walls with a 4m 5 degree awning out the side. Kit price is ~13k delivered (most well known shed kits are all within $500 of each other) DIY calcs: Framing (posts, top hats, C section top beam): Shed $2100 Awning: $1050

Is the 3/4 hard saddled. Isolating the fix off may help.

Mikaile, please change your profile location, state level as a minimum, it helps with member advice.

I have just priced out a small car port using gal posts and insulated roof deck and the cost of the steel for the posts is same as buying the posts made to order and the steel for the beams is within $10/length of aluminium prices, and the colorbond beams from Stratco are way cheaper than buying steel then painting. So do the sums first, it may be just as frugal to buy the shed kit.

Ended up giving the windows 3 coats of paint. They look great, but there is a new thin piece of timber that the windows slide over which i have not painted. They stand out like dog's balls. If i watered down some paint and gave them a wash, just to take the wood colour off, do you guys reckon they would effect the movement of the sashes? Also still looking for a product or method to clean off old paint from the brickwork. The previous job was horrendous in some parts.

Back up Droogs comment. Have zero experience but talking to another car resto enthusiast who sand blasted a holden EH 1963, the process stuffed the panels requiring crap load of work to bring them back to original....and those panels are thick metal.

My question related to the "design" of the wiring side of some "old" Australian socket-outlets as compared to the North American design of their socket outlets up to the present day. The photo on the left shows an Australian socket outlet in a double gang "wall plate", which is of the same dimensions as some used in North America to this day. The "single gang" wall plate used in both Australia and North America today can accommodate two "Dual" Socket-Outlets. However, the...

thanks for the advice... I'll go with the sanding, Raptor advice. (Very stained, more than dirty, a bit of light scratching, happy to leave the idea of shot blasting to professionals). Thanks a lot.

Thanks Droog. Do you glue and screw the joint? I gues screws would be in the top down through the stilles. Can you please provide a diagram if possible. Thanks.

Give it a good sanding with 120 grit then apply some Raptor - https://raptorcoatings.com/aus/en-aus#.YosSwKhByUk It's expensive, but a very good product.

Have you ever used blasting equipment before and do you have experience with auto blasting ? Dont personally know Mahindra's but being a modern vehicle I would expect thin sheet metal, it is easy to warp flat auto panels with blasting if you are not careful. And what is the problem that you need to address with blasting ?

Rebate joint, usually the depth of the stops machined into the frame. If using a sloping outside sill then deep enough for the stile to be cut horizontal on the bottom for a neat fit. Edit: The stile is rebated into the sill and top but the stops in the frame are rebated the opposite with the stops from the sill and top being rebated into the stops in the stiles. Tried to find a photo of what I mean but cannot locate one. If my explanation is not clear let me know and I will draw a...

apart from dust Do you need to worry about ventilation, damp, mould ...

If you not too worried about approval by the sounds of it, I'd just purchase materials and build yourself, if you do want approval, you just would need to see/contact and engineer after doing your research and send design/drawing etc for them to review and approve if it is adequate before doing your build, then have if privately certified.

At no point have you mentioned testing the base/membrane nor have you stated if the shower is step down with/without hob or sloped floor. This is important. Test the base by placing glad wrap over the waste/grate area and fill to about one inch of water and look for leaks Also look very very carefully for leaks where the glass meets the walls/floor/hob as I have had to repair a lot of these in my time. How was the piping pressure tested i.e did you cap off the shower head then...

I did yellow tongue flooring 400mm wide strip down the centre before the plaster went up, 3 or 4 batton lights and some other pieces of yellow tongue to sit stuff on. Didnt worry about dust control...there is sisialation under the tin like in your photo and after 8 years isnt really an issue.

...simular situation to my 2 failed showers less than 6 years old. The end result was I'd demolished the shower and had the builders rebuild....just finished the tiling so shower head fitoff, paint and shower screen is all thats left to do before I demolish the ensuite and do all over again. EDIT: after seeing Cyclic's points, remembered I'd checked the taps and filled the base with water to test and proved it leaked with the builders. End result was it came through the external wall...

Will be interesting how long the heatpump HWS will last as in the past, there has been quite a few issues I beleive. Perhaps another option to consider is either a wetback wood heater that circulates water from your HWS to the heater and returns it hot. WOuld be great in the winter and these systems are common in NZ and Europe. Another option is to perform a DIY with copper pipe aroind the flu or look at the "Axeman" flue baffels.

What type of join do you guys use for the timber window frame? Just butt joint with screws / mortise and tenon?