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some of my leadlight windows bow slightly if you press on them

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  1. #1
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    Default some of my leadlight windows bow slightly if you press on them

    I've just bought a 30s weatherboard house with some night leadlight windows

    some of the leadlight windows particularly in my bay window at the front of the house bow when you press on them, others are rigid in their frames.. there is quite a substantial amount of rot to the bottom rail of the top sashes (which hold the leadlight) which I will eventually have to sort out but the problem worries me

    thansk for any information

  2. #2
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    If the lead light bows then the putty in the came is most likely broken and or falling out.
    The putty in the came is important to the stiffness of the entire panel.

    Large lead light panes will usually have stiffening bars if it is large enough.

    Picture tell a thousand words.

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    oh right thanks I will take some photos tomorrow... wow so you have to what desolder it to repair it if that is the case? I suppose theoretically to replace the bottom sash rail its not that much bigger of a job to remove the glass.. wow

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    No de-soldering required.
    The putty for the came is just pushed into the came to take up the gap.

    If you need to repair the sash the best option is to take the lead light pane out totally, with the pane on a firm flat surface force new putty into the gaps between the glass and the came. Of course do any repair work on the pane to replace glass or re-solder any broken joints first.
    Tips:
    The putty is linseed oil putty, get some linseed oil to freshen old putty even old dry putty in the pane.
    For lead light use black putty, can be made by adding black oxide to normal putty, or a glazier will do this for you.
    Get some calcium carbonate (powder Polly filla), add to putty if too wet or use after putty-ing to clean the glass just dust on brush off.
    Do not use flux core solder for lead light.
    Re-soldered joints will need to be patina’d to age them.
    Use stove polish to blacken old lead came.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    If the lead light bows then the putty in the came is most likely broken and or falling out.
    The putty in the came is important to the stiffness of the entire panel.

    Large lead light panes will usually have stiffening bars if it is large enough.

    Picture tell a thousand words.
    You obviously know of what you are speaking so could you please explain what is "the came", in lead light panels.

    While I have no immediate use for this information, I would be interested to extend my knowledge.

  6. #6
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    Came is the name for the lead sections between the glass sections and around the outside, it can also be brass in some cases when you need to stiffen the panel such as large panes or on the edge of lead light lampshades.

    https://www.theleadlightworkshop.com...metalsleadcame

  7. #7
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    The putty is a mix of portland cement, whiting and linseed oil, generally not coloured as it's not seen, and if there is some the polish will fix.
    My wife does a lot of this, and to date has not been happy with just trying to add new putty. The lead came stretches with age and (ab)use. Sometimes we have been able to get the panel onto a bench and gently close the came and then add new putty, but only when the "damage" is minimal. The most successful repairs have been through recreating the window with new lead and then cementing, and the old cement does not come out easily. Expensive? Absolutely, but the best way to ensure the window stays uncracked and solid into the future.door.jpg
    And.....your point is.....what exactly?

  8. #8
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    Interesting the differences of products used in other states and area’s. Over here the putty used is just normal glaziers putty (calcium carbonate and linseed oil) and black oxide. What ratio of cement do you mix with the putty and is there a limited working time ?

    With decent stove polish being hard to come by what do you use for the polish ?

  9. #9
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    1 part Portland Cement

    2 parts Plaster of Paris
    4 parts powdered whitings (Chalk, calcium carbonate, or athletic field marking lime)

    Liquid..
    50% Gum Turpentine
    50% Boiled Linseed Oil

    Make cement to the consistency of peanut butter; apply with a scrub brush using circular motions to get into and under lead came flanges; remove excess; clean and dry and polish with a second scrub brush and several applications of powdered whiting.

    This you can make quite thin to assist in getting under the came, and it dries hard overnight...

    We just use shoe polish, essentially is almost the same.


    And.....your point is.....what exactly?

  10. #10
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    Great information here guys thanks!

  11. #11
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    We just use shoe polish,
    Obvious now, but never thought of it before.

    Thanks for the tips.

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