1890s Miner's Cottage Reno

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  1. #101
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    Thanks Sundance. I reckon we could land a plane on it. I think it was about 230m2. Cost around $9,500 which included laying a row of brick edging on the left side and two gattock/linear drains. One at end of drive and one crossing from retaining wall to corner of verandah. Keith is a great guy and does great work. Highly recommend him if anyone's looking.

    Might do a go to whoa on Basalt.... Thinking about it.

  2. #102
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    Hi all. Concentrating on outside still.

    Last weekend, removed grass and dirt from side of house (hate mowing here) and transplanted it in front yard where I wanted to make a narrower edge of gravel for the driveway. It seems to be alive still (the grass). I then layed gravel at side of house (forgot to take pic). Much neater and better to walk on.

    Then I got some sleepers and offcuts of steel beams and built a platform for the bins. The driveway edge is very steep and hauling a full recycle bin (call it a "coopers green" bin) up it is tough going. I wanted a more level place for it.

    It needed to be filled so luckily we had a pile of rock and dirt under the deck return which needed to be removed anyway. This had to be dug out and hauled by wheelbarrow up the steep driveway. Me pushing and Tanya pushing me. Pretty funny to see if anyone was watching.

    This weekend, I got a few loads of Tuscan topping and edged both sides of the driveway, filled the bin platform level and put a layer under the deck return. All much neater although I probably should have put a timber edge or something along the grass. Will see how it goes and I can always change that.

    The bin platform will have to compact down a bit before it does the job properly but the tuscan topping is great stuff for that. It settles in quite hard.

    We also had a tree fall last week and that had to be removed and the other half carefully cut down around the power line. Thanks to Rob a good friend who does all the chainsaw jobs round here. So big bonfire last night. Love it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails under-deck-return.jpg   bin-platform.jpg   bin-platform-2.jpg   driveway-edging.jpg   driveway-edging-2.jpg  


  3. #103
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    Su... fantastic stuff... love it.

    Was wondering if you could PM me through Keith's details if you think he'll do work in The Marsh. We've got a very large backyard driveway which the Boss and I have been trying to decide what to do with. It's currently just compacted crush rock with Tuscan toppings (yep, it's brilliant stuff) but it eroding reasonably quickly and we're trying to decide if when we (read I) fix the drainage, we actually consider asphalting it. Not sure we want a 'road' in our backyard, so perhaps a coloured asphalt could be in order. Not sure of the size, but I imagine it'd be comparable.
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  4. #104
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    Loved reading your post. Thank you so much for sharing! I will continue to follow.

  5. #105
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    Sure Smergen. I'll contact him and see. "The Marsh"??

    Drainage.... Not a lot of fun.

  6. #106
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    Thank's Roseanm. I enjoy posting. It's part of my morning ritual, posting and reading through the forum.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    Sure Smergen. I'll contact him and see. "The Marsh"??

    Drainage.... Not a lot of fun.
    Bacchus Marsh... Drainage isn't too bad Su.

    Rule 1. Water goes down hill
    Rule 2. Don't ignore Rule 1.

  8. #108
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    He he. Yeah, my place is all hill. Drainage sucks when you dig the tranches yourself. Nutter that I am.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    He he. Yeah, my place is all hill. Drainage sucks when you dig the tranches yourself. Nutter that I am.
    You mean you can get other people to do it??

  10. #110
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    Imagine that. You hire a guy to come dig trenches and he/she turns up with a shovel.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    Imagine that. You hire a guy to come dig trenches and he/she turns up with a shovel.
    Or just a big digger
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails diggers-9_large.jpg  
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  12. #112
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    He's not comin down my driveway!!! Speaking of driveway, Smergen, have PM'd you Keith's number.

  13. #113
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    My other "bush house" project is waiting for a roof so I've been lazing about all last week. Managed to get through 4 books and spend some time concentrating on the details of my under-deck shed.

    My method of framing the walls will be a little unconventional which I'll show through pics as I go. Working out a way for the tin to go past the posts was solved finally with some good advise from a plumber friend. I came close to trashing the whole idea until running into him in the street, where he explained how to get around the problem.

    So i've ordered the timber (a local guy with small mill) and have found some reasonably priced tin and weatherboards on E**y. I was going to clad in cement sheet (painted dark) between the posts and then decking boards horizontally and spaced. I've changed all that as my deck already needs re-oiling and if I add the cladding to the regular job of it, I'll be going crazy pretty soon. Instead, I'm going to prime (oil based) and paint all the posts and rails dark (still to choose a colour) and use weatherboards instead, also painted. This will mean only the deck will need regular oiling.

    I hope that when I clean and oil the deck in the future, It wont make a mess of the paintwork??

  14. #114
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    Okay. So lucky for me Tanya has this week off so she and I gave the deck handrails and posts a coat of Dulux 1 Step Acrylic Primer Sealer Undercoat. Then two coats of Dulux weathershield. I go with Dulux because I have a trade account with them. Worth the trip to Ballarat if I'm buying enough paint.

    The color scheme is Western Myall (dark grey) for the posts and handrails, Linseed (light brown) for the weatherboards and White Duck Quarter for doors, trim, etc. Also using The Grey to paint a weathered fence next to the driveway.

    Must say, Was really happy with the coverage. Used a bit less than half a 10L tin of the top coat and about a quarter of a 10L tin of undercoat. Also it was sunny and getting a wet edge impossible. It didn't seem to matter as it looks perfect. Don't know if that's the product or the color but very happy so far.

    Best of all, It's done for quite a few years. Woo Hoo.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails undercoat.jpg   undercoat2.jpg   undercoat3.jpg   painted.jpg   painted2.jpg  

    painted3.jpg  

  15. #115
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    Looking good.

    Must say though that last step in photo 2 & 5 is a doosy
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  16. #116
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    Yes. Actually, there will be a continuation of the deck. This will bring it to almost ground level in line with the front of the house. A small step. Can't do that till I re-weatherboard and remove the tin fireplace that's in the way.

  17. #117
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    Looking great mate. How's the bitumen going ? How thick do they lay it on ? Nothing like paint on the handrails for easy maintenance eh

  18. #118
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    Cheers ringtail. Happy with the paint. I did get a couple of bubbles but hopefully won't develop more.

    The driveway is pretty good. From looking at the edge it looks like a couple of inches. I wasn't here when they laid it tho.

    There are a couple of patches that are a bit gravelly so I'm a bit concerned, especially after running into the guy who originally was going to do the drive.

    He reckons it looks great but was wondering if the stone in the mix was 7mm or larger. He told me that on a steep drive, it should be larger and that he had to re-do a job just to make sure of no future problems. That worries me a bit.

    I told Keith about the gravelly bits recently and he'll drop in at some time to check it out. It makes me uncomfortable to think he may have to fix it. Hate things going wrong for people.

  19. #119
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    Ive got a fella quoting to put it under my house to cover up some pretty feral concrete. I was going to use epoxy seamless flooring but the quotes came back at over $ 100 m2 because of the prep work. I have know idea what other product I can use and the bitumen is something I had not considered, until now.

  20. #120
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    That's a great idea. I wish I'd thought of that for the slope under my deck.

    I've started putting the roof under the deck. The battens and a few pieces of tin are up. I'ts bloody fiddly and there are cut outs to go round the posts which I want as tight as possible so not too thick an edge of silicone. It takes a bit of maneuvering to get them in place but so far it's working. The cut out around the post means that the tin that butts behind the post needs to be modified so the water can run down the valleys and out sideways. To do this, you make a T cut in the crests and fold the crest flat, overlapping and siliconing the overlap. Then silicone up the hole it creates. Will put a proper pic of this up later but here's a pic that sort of shows how. Also here's a pdf of how I flashed the wall of the house.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cgi.jpg  
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  21. #121
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    A lot of fiddly work for you with the tin. Many beers needed.

  22. #122
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    Yes. Many. Nothing new about that solution.

  23. #123
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    Tried and proven

  24. #124
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    Finished the tin on Sunday. Here's a couple of pics showing how the tin was cut round the posts.

    p8280007.jpg p8280010.jpg p8280009.jpg p8280008.jpg

    I'm not convinced it'll be 100% effective as it's hard to make it perfect considering the very small pitch but have put loads of silicone to the back and sides of the posts.

    Yesterday framed between the posts. Haven't taken pics yet. A bit more framing today and then start on installing a couple of windows and a door. Maybe even get to start cladding today.

  25. #125
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    Short day today. Had to go do tax return. Aptly named. Getting some back, woo hoo!!

    Bit more framing and built the reveals for the two windows and installed them. Still pondering what to do with the door opening. It's too wide for one large door so I thought maybe double doors??? Opinions? I have some old floorboards that I can use to make barn style doors.

    Anyway, It's beer o'clock.
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  26. #126
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    I had to take the cross bracing off to put the framing and window in. Can anyone see a way to reinstate? Looking at the first pic in the last posting, could I cross brace from the chunky beams of the framing up to the top and down to the bottom of the corner. I realise this would be going over the window but that's okay. Any ideas?

  27. #127
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    Finished most of the walls yesterday, including the wall that separates the roofed in section from the unroofed section. I didn't roof all the way as later I'll be putting a verandah over part of the deck above. The area under the deck has a wall across the long end but is open at the end still so it will be a good place for the mower, wheelbarrow, etc.

    Was intending to make door for the opening the other day, out of some stored timber flooring. As I pulled it out (sitting on the dirt, stupid me), got down to the last two pieces and termites (large intake of breath through gritted teeth). I've covered it back up and am waiting on guy to come this afternoon. Cleared everything else out from under the house and have a heavily loaded ute, waiting for the tip run. The dog had made a nest out of a partial pack of insulation. What a mess. At least I have chucked out everything I don't want anymore.

    I can see the end in sight. All my stuff neatly stored on shelves where I can get at it without crawling on my hands and knees.
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  28. #128
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    Any more recent progress Su? It's been a little while between drinks! Or are you just to busy to type?

  29. #129
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    I'm still here, wandering about and commenting in others' conversations when I can.

    I should add a couple of pics of the inside of the shed and the bench/shelves and the timber door made of floor boards and the final paint job. I do have a few finishing touches to add. Some cement sheet along the bottom edge of the walls, on the angle of the slope. Eventually I'll find time.

    I did put some sliding fly screen doors in last weekend but other than that it's mowing season. Every two weeks, half an acre of sloping block. Every other weekend, I like to have a rest.

    I have been working full time on a renovation job for a customer and they keep adding work for me to do. Most of it is painting the outside of a high and big house. Had to buy scaffolding to do this job.

    I've also been replacing windows and doors and renovating their kitchen a bit. The kitchen is to last about a year or so until they can do a new kitchen. The cabinets and benchtops are pretty manky so I sanded back all cabinets for painting and removed one length, along one wall and packed out to 600mm so new benchtops were wider. Left the other side as it involved plumbing. Reconfigured some cabinets and replaced all the benchtops. Found 4.8m lengths of Merbau, finger jointed, for $330 on ebay. Good value, I thought. As there was a decent length left over, now they want a mobile island bench. The list keeps growing every time they pop their heads in. Great customers!

    When I finish there, I hope to spend a short time at our place doing whatever time and money permits. Then I will be helping a friend to build her house and then building another bush hut similar to the last one. There are other offers of work too but we'll see what eventuates. Got a fairly full dance card. It's great.

  30. #130
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    Great to hear! It speaks volumes for the quality of your work (which is quite apparent on here) that you are getting so many requests for jobs. You should be very proud.

    Hope it all works out and I look forward to seeing some pics when you get the chance!

  31. #131
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    Cheers Smergen. Will get the camera out.

  32. #132
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    A few pics of the shed under deck painted and door made and clear coated.

    A side gate made by Nik our welder mate.

    The garden bed has taken off. May make a few alterations to it in future. Widen the front of the bed to add another row of small flowering plants of some sort as the grasses seem like they ought to not be in the front row.

    The aspen we planted in the front yard. Can't wait to see this grow big.
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  33. #133
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    That's going to be a handy little space under there Su. Does the floor stay dry?

  34. #134
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    It's very handy. Much better than under the house. Trying to get my drop saw out when bent over and crawling was bad for my back. Most of my tools are at work at the moment so it's a little empty right now but they all fit pretty well along the bench. The ground at the far wall gets a bit of water running past as the tin roof doesn't extend the full length of the deck and the ground slopes but most of the ground is dry. When I install cement sheet along the bottom edge of the walls, I'll trim some of the studs a bit as a few are too close to the ground. Don't want to invite termites.

  35. #135
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    Had to remove some broken concrete from a job I'm currently working on. They were pretty good sizes and so I decided to bring most of them home and lay a path with them.

    Surprised it only took Saturday morning to do the job. I'm no paving expert so I don't go to too much effort. All I wanted was for them to sit flush with the ground so grass can grow around the edges.

    Just dug the shapes out of the ground, left a bit of loose soil in the hole to level out the bottom and filled the edges with top soil and sometimes stuffed sods of grass back in where my cut out was a bit big. Rammed the grass and dirt around the edges with sledge hammer edge to make snug fit.

    Took all the left over soil and grass to fill a bad spot elsewhere in the front garden. I've transplanted grass before and it works pretty well. Watered everything and that was that.

    Had a huge downpour over night and was worried it might erode the soil around the paver edges but it was pretty good when I checked it in the morning. Now just have to wait for the edges to fill in with grass.

    Cost of job - nil. Yay, gotta love that.
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  36. #136
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    Got a bit done over after boxing day. Aim was to get the deck return finished sowe had to remove the tin fireplace from the side wall first and weatherboard up the space left. This went pretty well without too much stress. Always get a bit concerned when someone has to climb on the roof and ladders near objects partially disassembled. Bit of a wuss.

    Did find a weird wall at the bottom. The bearers sit on the stumps and joists on those but the wall sits independently on the stumps and the front corner stud is separated from the bottom plate. The bottom plate and a couple of stumps were pretty stuffed so I put in a couple and an replaced the bottom plate with something a bit more chunky that ran to the same stump the front stud sits on. Also meant I could chop a bit off the bottom of the studs as they were in pretty poor condition. Bit of a "she'll do" job for now. Will access the studs again when I remove all the weatherboards down the track.

    Then spent two really hot days getting the deck return finished. As usual, could always be better but hey, I'm no perfectionist. Especially when I'm dropping sweat rapidly. Just happy to have another thing off my list.
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  37. #137
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    Just love your work Su - you've really made that old place into a great home. And provided some good tips and incentive for forum members too!
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

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    Great paving job, Shauck, great BBQ!

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloss View Post
    Just love your work Su - you've really made that old place into a great home. An provided some good tips and incentive for forum members too!


    Just luv it!!

  40. #140
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    Nice job bet you find the new access handy. I put a ramp on the end of my deck and it made a huge differance.

    Did you find any old tins hidden in the back of the fireplace filled with gold nuggets?

  41. #141
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    Hey, thanks guys. I love doing this stuff. You've all been vital in my learning process.

    Denaria, the bbq/fireplace is pretty hot little item. I was given the cylinder as a present a few years ago and was shown a bit of welding and angle grinding so it was my first go at it. Vern, who gave it to me has a bush mill with loads of stuff lying around. I always get a bit excited by all of it.

    Goldie, I live in hope that a nugget passes through my hands. All that I found in the fireplace was an old rats nest. I've passed it on to Sally who I built the bush house for. She'll use it and the wood stove in a future hut or lean to. Glad it's going to keep being used.

    I figured that on such a steep block, we needed flat areas that are easy to access for anyone. Also the only way onto the deck was through my bedroom so now if we're out the back and people turn up they can just come right on to the deck without needing to walk through the house. The whole house is at reachable level from a ladder on flat surface so weatherboarding it will be a breeze too.

    Next job will be the verandah. Soon, I hope. Oh, and checking more stumps as some of them need replacing at the back of the house.

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    lol I'm sure it's a lot more reassuring that any visitors will not be appearing in the bedroom doorway anymore.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    Goldie, I live in hope that a nugget passes through my hands. All that I found in the fireplace was an old rats nest. I've passed it on to Sally who I built the bush house for. She'll use it and the wood stove in a future hut or lean to. Glad it's going to keep being used.
    .
    Wonder why Sally would want an old rats nest in a future hut? Must be a Victorian thing

  44. #144
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    It's a heritage listed rat's nest

    Would be nice if the bedroom stopped being a thoroughfare but it's the only way to the bathroom too. Ah well. Tiny houses have their drawbacks.

  45. #145
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    Wonderful work, shauck.

    I notice in your recent pics that you've put the stirrups for the verandah posts with the bolt holes facing out. Any particular reason why you did it that was instead of rotating them 90 degrees? I've done the same as you, but my chippie told me off about it (not in a "you bloody idiot" way, but said it just meant a slightly deeper notch in the posts for the beams because you can't adjust the position of the posts themselves).

  46. #146
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    Not sure what you mean. I'm still waking up, slept in. My reason for doing it this way was so I could screw all the stirrups to a length of timber and have them hang in the holes ready for the concrete pour. I'll re-read this later and see if my brain understands.

  47. #147
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    With the stirrups set the way you've got them (and same for me), the posts can be shifted slightly left or right along the verandah, but not outward or inward, which means they have to be dead accurate (and mine aren't quite). My chippie said turning them 90 degrees would have been better, as that way the position of the posts could be adjusted in or out by 10mm or so if needed.

    Probable not an issue for you, as you hung them then poured, so they'd be in the right position anyway, but I poured and placed the stirrups, and put the posts up afterwards.

  48. #148
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    Got ya. Yeah, not too out of line in my case. I didn't hang the posts, just the stirrups, in case you were thinking that.

    I was pretty keen to make the concrete pour quick and painless as I had no other hands on job for most of it till a couple of friends turned up towards the end. I also had two retaining walls to do at the same time. One with steel posts, one with sleeper posts, all of which were set in the holes with a couple of bags of rapid set each. All up about 30 holes to fill ranging from about 600 to 1500 deep. We got it done pretty quick because of the way it was set up.

    I still found my method a bit inaccurate. Trying to get the stirrups plumb by packing one side or the other before screwing to the timber length using a level off the side of the stirrup. Being a high deck in most places with posts going through to be handrail posts and some verandah posts means a bit out at the bottom, translates to more out at the top. Also the timber I had bought was pretty bowed and I couldn't get it to pull in so I have a huge curve in the handrail in one section (the side return). Looks a bit like a ship's rail. I would have liked it to be better but it's up and I'm happy enough for my first solo deck.

  49. #149
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    Bugger. Had written a longer post but lost it. Oh well.

    Spent the last few days getting the verandah framing up. Two back walls not both inline with each other and roof levels different. Main house wall is parallel to front edge of deck/posts but bathroom wall is on a bit of an angle. It was a brain strain and took a bit to work it all out but eventually got there, not without some mistakes along the way. Should I strap ends of battens as well as the batten screws or will it be ok screwed?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p2050033.jpg   p2050001.jpg   p2050002.jpg   p2050003.jpg  

  50. #150
    Old Chippy 6K
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    Su - I'd use a small triple grip or strap the battens especially the ends - and I'd put more than the single screw in each (I think I can see only a single?). In the rare high wind event it's often the ends that lift first and once that start the lot comes off - and most commonly what comes off is the roofing still attached to battens - which tells you the battens were not fastened well enough. It's a bit of extra time, but hard to do much about later and not costly. Of course nature might still do the dirty on you and trash it anyway - but in that sort of event it's mostly luck not the build quality!

    BTW - great but work as usual. If it were mine I'd 15 degree bevel off the rafter ends, but that's mostly aesthetic only (although allows water to drop off the top not run down the end grain) - and a bugger to do now they are up!
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

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