Under House Excavation

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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitey56 View Post
    Hi Bloomers
    I'm impressed greatly by your steel work and the amount of dirt you have dug by hand but Maaaate! wouldn't it been easier to move house.
    In your first couple of photo's I thought at least the digging is easy but that didn't last long hey, I have done a few under hose excavations in my 15 years as a House remover, we used a guy who had a Massey 200 drott it was about 40years old and low, I said to him one day why don't you buy a new Drott his reply was nobody makes anything that low and didn't want to loose work with a higher machine, the little Massey could dig though and just about everyone in the area used him for digouts.
    I hope the guys who did the brick laying and electrical originally are out of the game their work is just garbage.
    I love your Lathe that's the one I would buy if I ever get a lazy 3k or a good S/H Tiawanese of the same model, did that little Bandsaw cut the RSJ's a BS4 or 5 isn't it.

    Keep up the Quality work
    Whitey
    The digging was easy to start. I thought it was going to be fairly easy. When it got too hard for the bobcat things went downhill fast. Got there in the end with a bit of work.

    The bandsaw is a BS5 and comes in very handy. I had the steel delivered cut to length. I have cut an RSJ with it before. There is not enough depth for one cut and the RSJ needs to be rolled over and finished from the other side.

  2. #52
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    Hi mate, very impressive work!
    I have been planing to do something like this myself. I have a few questions that you might be able to help me with.
    What size steel beams and posts did you use?
    How did you know what to use?
    Did you follow a set of guidelines or talk to an engineer?
    when you said that it has a fall to the south are you referring to the Drainage pipe or the slab?

    cheers and thanks in advance

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronburgundy View Post
    Hi mate, very impressive work!
    I have been planing to do something like this myself. I have a few questions that you might be able to help me with.
    What size steel beams and posts did you use?
    How did you know what to use?
    Did you follow a set of guidelines or talk to an engineer?
    when you said that it has a fall to the south are you referring to the Drainage pipe or the slab?

    cheers and thanks in advance
    I started by engaging an engineer who did all the specifications and drawings. The beams are150 X 18.0 and the uprights are 90x90x5 SHS.
    The fall to the south was the drainage.

  4. #54
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Great project. Looking through the pics, was wondering how you managed the moisture barrier under all the steel posts. Did you place plastic under the posts initially and tape the final plastic layers to this? Also wondering what size footings under each post?

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    Great project. Looking through the pics, was wondering how you managed the moisture barrier under all the steel posts. Did you place plastic under the posts initially and tape the final plastic layers to this? Also wondering what size footings under each post?
    The footings were 500x500x300. I did not have any moisture barrier under the steel posts. There is a moisture barrier under the main slab. Are there any issues?

  6. #56
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    Default Under House Excavation

    I love what you have done and it is what I would like to do with my place.

    Have you worked out how much this all cost.......

    Did you get much internal damage inside in terms of cracks in walls, tiles or floorboards etc.....


    How much did the engineering cost?

  7. #57
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bloomers View Post
    The footings were 500x500x300. I did not have any moisture barrier under the steel posts. There is a moisture barrier under the main slab. Are there any issues?
    Probably no issues but may depend on how wet the soil can get. When I did the same thing I lined the post footing with plastic sheet and then poured. After excavating the surrounding area, I placed the vapour barrier and taped and overlapped that plastic. Vapour barriers are meant to be overlapped and taped so I believed this should apply under the posts as well. I am curious as to how this is typically done by others.

  8. #58
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    Bloomers, I have watched this epic throughout, logged in then logged out then logged back in many many times. A great achievement and explained and illustrated so so well. Still not totally clear on how the timber to steel beam switch out went but got a rough idea. Assuming you had many stresses throughout but definitely didnt come through in the comments and posts that you made Great to see it near on completion. I'm happy for you, its some journey

    My interest is because of this below! Look familiar??

    Some of the brick piers are not even touching the timber beams!

    But it is a great opportunity to build a car, boat, games and music room thanks to a sloping block and open access already almost right to the back of house although space height reduces the further you go back. Temp in this area is also significantly cooler so super hot day option. Drainage set up needs to be spot on as some water penertration as it is now but done right should be ok. Already a garage and workshop at the front with overhead height so starting point is good and pushback from there is very popssible

    Had quote up to $110k which is almost certainly what I call "full freight" based on working through steel costs, excavation and earth removal, block laying, plumbing, concreting and other so getting a second and possibly third opinion. May progress it in steps ie steel first, then excavation, then so on and spread the cost but suspect it may come in more around $75-80k based. Still it big bill but the area size and functionality created would make it well worth it.

    Anyway, thanks again for the step by step, live project. Has been a huge source of info and help, much appreciated.
    .
    img_1069.jpg

    img_1066.jpg

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by SirMe View Post
    I love what you have done and it is what I would like to do with my place.

    Have you worked out how much this all cost.......

    Did you get much internal damage inside in terms of cracks in walls, tiles or floorboards etc.....


    How much did the engineering cost?
    I did not really keep a tally of the cost but a quick calculation I think it would have been around 35K. Big ticket items were the steel, slab and bobcat/tipper.

    I did not crack any plaster, but I cannot comment on tiles because they were already cracked and the floor boards already creaked. There was some existing issues with water running under the house etc. The excavation work has sorted these issues so now I need to renovate the bathrooms, en-suite and toilet.

    The engineer visited, designed and provided drawings for 1K.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andiamo View Post
    Still not totally clear on how the timber to steel beam switch out went but got a rough idea.
    I laid the new steel bearer beside the line of the existing stumps. I supported the joists with a temporary bearer either side of the wooden bearer. I just put enough pressure on the jacks to raise the wooden bearer off the brick stump. As soon as I could get a hacksaw blade between the beam and the stump I stopped jacking. I knocked out the top course of bricks on the stump because the steel is taller than the wooden beam. I then cut out the wooden bearer. It was a bit hard sometimes because the joists were cross nailed to the bearer. Then through a series of lifting, temporary supports I raised the steel beam up to a height of the stumps and then on top of the stumps. That was the hard part and was made easier with a couple of mates. After a bit of jacking and packing the steel beam is in and the temporary beams can be removed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andiamo View Post
    Assuming you had many stresses throughout but definitely didnt come through in the comments and posts that you made Great to see it near on completion
    There was definitely stress especially when you are about to do something that, if it does not work, could be very expensive to fix.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andiamo View Post
    My interest is because of this below! Look familiar??

    Some of the brick piers are not even touching the timber beams!
    Very familiar, but I only had one pier where the timber did not touch

    Quote Originally Posted by Andiamo View Post
    Had quote up to $110k which is almost certainly what I call "full freight" based on working through steel costs, excavation and earth removal, block laying, plumbing, concreting and other so getting a second and possibly third opinion. May progress it in steps ie steel first, then excavation, then so on and spread the cost but suspect it may come in more around $75-80k based. Still it big bill but the area size and functionality created would make it well worth it.
    I got a quote from a builder for approx 130K. It would have gone over that because of the rock I encounted while doing the foundations. It took a long time to get the work done, but I did something every afternoon after work and at least 1 day on the weekend. As I said above, I think I spent around 35K and I have enormous satisfaction after doing the job. It is far from finished, but I am taking time off from this job to work on the jobs deemed more important by my wife.

  11. #61
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    Default how low is agi drain?

    hi bloomers - hope you're still reading this great interactive blog. I missed - how deep is your agi drain? I thought you are excavating pretty deep, under the foundations of the original house - is the agi drain working on a fall to a pit? Or is the eventual drainage point low enough that the agi drain just falls into it with any seepage it catches? (I'm curious as I have to do a similar job, but much much smaller, and want to put a sump pit inside the foundations, and use automatic sump pump to pump any underground seepage up (2m) and outside the house walls. The (very old) house is on a steep block.
    regards,
    gj

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by garryaquagj View Post
    hi bloomers - hope you're still reading this great interactive blog. I missed - how deep is your agi drain? I thought you are excavating pretty deep, under the foundations of the original house - is the agi drain working on a fall to a pit? Or is the eventual drainage point low enough that the agi drain just falls into it with any seepage it catches? (I'm curious as I have to do a similar job, but much much smaller, and want to put a sump pit inside the foundations, and use automatic sump pump to pump any underground seepage up (2m) and outside the house walls. The (very old) house is on a steep block.
    regards,
    gj
    gj

    There was already an agi drain for the existing foundation. You can see what is left of the original drain in the corner.



    This agi drain goes to the outside of the house and joins up with the storm water.



    When I re did the agi drain, I increased the size to 100mm and the drain was 250mm below the finished floor height in the corner below.




    I thought about a sump and researched the good old american basement. Most of the basements had sumps and the conclusion was not if it will one day flood, but when. Whether it is a failure of the pump or the backup battery powered bilge pump. If you have to have a sump, make sure that the design allows for easy access for maintenance.

    Glenn

  13. #63
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    Default Under House Excavation

    Quote Originally Posted by bloomers View Post
    gj

    There was already an agi drain for the existing foundation. You can see what is left of the original drain in the corner.



    This agi drain goes to the outside of the house and joins up with the storm water.



    When I re did the agi drain, I increased the size to 100mm and the drain was 250mm below the finished floor height in the corner below.




    I thought about a sump and researched the good old american basement. Most of the basements had sumps and the conclusion was not if it will one day flood, but when. Whether it is a failure of the pump or the backup battery powered bilge pump. If you have to have a sump, make sure that the design allows for easy access for maintenance.

    Glenn
    Nice work I sent you a PM.......

  14. #64
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    Wow, great jobs doing. this is exactly what i am going to do soon.
    please post more detailed steps and precautions while you were doing that.
    thanks.

  15. #65
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    Great job so far ,any chance of some up dates

  16. #66
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    Any updates?!

  17. #67
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    updates?

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrt22 View Post
    Great job so far ,any chance of some up dates
    Quote Originally Posted by duke149 View Post
    Any updates?!
    Quote Originally Posted by levinracer View Post
    updates?
    ...probably still digging))))

    I know how "easy" to do it by hands... big demo-hammer with the shovel bit is good but moving 20+ kgs tool around is a bit of a pain... in your back))) even after a few hours of digging.... after 1 week of hard digging you will be walking like a zombie!)))

  19. #69
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    Still waiting for the final photos

  20. #70
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    I think he took the film to rabbit photo ...
    Enjoy present pleasures in such a way as not to injure future ones.
    Seneca

  21. #71
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    Hey buddy
    Old thread I know, but just wanted to say congrats on such an impressive job. I'm a couple weeks out from starting a similar project.
    In hindsight is there anything you would have done differently?

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