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Another Braemar TH3 in Lockout 2

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  1. #1
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    Default Another Braemar TH3 in Lockout 2

    My Braemar TH3 packed up on Monday morning. It went into Error Code 10 (Lockout 1) then after 10 minutes or so into Error Code 19 (Lockout 2). I found a Service Manual and held down Zone 3 to reset and I cleared the Error 19 in the Log. That was the only Error listed.

    I've also taken the OT2 Thermostat out and tested it with a digital multimeter. It had slightly high resistance but the contacts needed a clean and then I got a low reading.

    I'm not sure which is OT1 - is it the one on the Heat Exchanger with a Manual override? If so, I tested that and it's also fine.

    So the weird thing is that the Controller now shows Reset but the code is '00'.

    When I power on, the Red LED pulses twice with a 1 second interval indicating it's still in Lockout 2.

    I'm stumped as to how to get it to start even if it goes back into Lockout 2.

  2. #2
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    After looking at the wiring diagram I've realised that OT1 is on a long piece of metal that goes down into the air chamber. I've just tested that and it's closed at room temp.

  3. #3
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    geez, join the club. What type of controller do you have connected to your TH3? Do you have a photo? Maybe one from the internet? Would be interested to know how you progress it.

  4. #4
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    I am sure that I already replied but it seems to have disappeared.

    The error codes are correct for OT2 and OT1 and maybe they just needed cleaning as you have done.
    As you obviously have the SCC controller Have you pressed and held "Reset" until reset disappears from the display ?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    I am sure that I already replied but it seems to have disappeared.

    The error codes are correct for OT2 and OT1 and maybe they just needed cleaning as you have done.
    As you obviously have the SCC controller Have you pressed and held "Reset" until reset disappears from the display ?
    Yes, unfortunately Reset doesn't ever disappear. I tried holding down Zone 3 until the spanner disappears but as soon as I press Reset, the spanner returns and the Error Code is '00'. Have you ever seen that before?

    I tried ringing Braemar Tech Support. The guy was helpful and said that I could try disconnecting the Controller and putting a link wire across a couple of pins labelled T/Stat. Then try starting - he said it should run but obviously without any temp control.

    The other thing I thought about was using a Telephone wire to connect the SCC locally to the TH3 as it's outside. I did do a Comms check and it said 'yes' so I know the wiring is OK, but would be nice to check it all in one place.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rzkman View Post
    geez, join the club. What type of controller do you have connected to your TH3? Do you have a photo? Maybe one from the internet? Would be interested to know how you progress it.
    I do have the SCC and I saw that you had similar problems but you can't reset yours because you don't have the SCC. I'll reply back here if I find out anything useful that might help you.

  7. #7
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    OK, I bit the bullet and called out a service company that had the SCC controller. The error codes pointed to overheating. My return air vent is far too small for the unit. And I had a filter covering it too, which restricted the airflow even more.
    $245 later...but at least they fixed the issue. I might look at investing in an SCC controller so I can also have fan mode in summer. Good luck with your issue Alan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rzkman View Post
    OK, I bit the bullet and called out a service company that had the SCC controller. The error codes pointed to overheating. My return air vent is far too small for the unit. And I had a filter covering it too, which restricted the airflow even more.
    $245 later...but at least they fixed the issue. I might look at investing in an SCC controller so I can also have fan mode in summer. Good luck with your issue Alan.
    Hi Ray

    Out of curiosity, who did you call out? I have a call in to Coldflow who are coming out tomorrow morning

    Alan

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    All climate solutions in Mulgrave. What's the call out rate for Coldflow out of curiosity?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rzkman View Post
    All climate solutions in Mulgrave. What's the call out rate for Coldflow out of curiosity?
    $250 for first half hour and $30/15 Mins thereafter.

    Many others I phoned could not attend until next Tuesday

    Plus Coldflow are well respected and I'm sure will be able to work out the problem

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan111S View Post
    $250 for first half hour and $30/15 Mins thereafter.

    Many others I phoned could not attend until next Tuesday

    Plus Coldflow are well respected and I'm sure will be able to work out the problem
    I just hope their service team is better than their sales. I had them quote for a a/c system to cool the entire house. The guy came but I never received the quote back. Maybe they could sense already that the central system they suggested was going to cost a lot more than the multiple split systems I eventually went with...

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    So had an engineer out from Coldflow. Very good guy with 36 years experience mostly with Braemar. The code 00 needed a trick to reset it - he went into the Fault List with F01 showing, pressed the little reset button with a pen, (the one where there used to be a lug on the door that would press it when closed) and pressed the Reset button at the same time.

    Fired up the furnace and it ran OK for a minute or so then the PCB started making the fan run fast then slow, with the result that the whole furnace was shaking. The voltages coming out of the PCB were fluctuating heavily. The engineer jumper wired the fan and proved that the fan could run smoothly with constant voltage. So the long and short of it is I need a new PCB.

    I'm trying to decide whether I get one myself and install it or wait for the engineer to come back. Next callout is just parts and labour. But in case there are other issues wrong with it. It was running OK apart from the fluctuating voltage to the fan. And obviously the fact that the fan wouldn't run is what caused the Over Temp switches to trip out.

  13. #13
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    Any progress with your heater Alan? Curious to know what was the cause and outcome.

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    Hi Ray

    Coldflow quoted me $550 Parts and Labour to replace the PCB. I knew that this included 1 hours labour which is $120, so they were charging me $430 for the board. In the meantime, I had found that Reece plumbing have a few outlets that do HVAC parts and so I bought the PCB from them for $220 including GST (almost half the price). I also went to Jaycar and bought a 4 wire RJ11 phone handset lead, complete with curled wire so I could connect the controller outside - was only $9.

    I came home and took many photos of the board installation so I was absolutely sure which wire went where. Then I simply switched off but left the plug connected (for earth) and swapped the board out. On my old board the fan adjustment was set to Max so I did the same on the new board.

    The first five minutes running was a little nerve racking - I just prayed there wasn't anything else wrong, but it was fine. Since then it's been working great.

    Alan

  15. #15
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    Great outcome Alan! Thanks for posting this, it will now be there for further webs searches

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan111S View Post
    Hi Ray

    Coldflow quoted me $550 Parts and Labour to replace the PCB. I knew that this included 1 hours labour which is $120, so they were charging me $430 for the board. In the meantime, I had found that Reece plumbing have a few outlets that do HVAC parts and so I bought the PCB from them for $220 including GST (almost half the price). I also went to Jaycar and bought a 4 wire RJ11 phone handset lead, complete with curled wire so I could connect the controller outside - was only $9.

    I came home and took many photos of the board installation so I was absolutely sure which wire went where. Then I simply switched off but left the plug connected (for earth) and swapped the board out. On my old board the fan adjustment was set to Max so I did the same on the new board.

    The first five minutes running was a little nerve racking - I just prayed there wasn't anything else wrong, but it was fine. Since then it's been working great.

    Alan
    This is awesome Alan! I applaud you for hunting down the parts from Reece! Who would have thought! I will see if they can sell me a Spectrolink controller at a decent price.
    So you are saying the 'loom' that they try to sell for $70 is just a 4 wire phone lead? Wow! That's good to know too!

    Chilly morning in Melbourne today! Glad both our Braemars are running normally now! Cheers!

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