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Baemar TH320 in lockout 2

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  1. #1
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    Default Baemar TH320 in lockout 2

    Hi Guys,


    This morning was a bit cold in Melbourne, I tried to turn on the central heating, it seems like its not coming on.
    I usually hear the unit running the in the roof cavity, but this time nothing is happening.
    I have a analog thermostat so I don't have digital code error reading. I tested the thermostat, seems to be working.
    Using a multi-meter I can check the two terminals closing and opening when I turn the thermostat dial to lowest and highest setting
    I opened the unit in the roof cavity, I have a TH320G and was installed around 2010.
    I can see the Power LED solid Green and the ON LED is flashing red. Two flashs then pause, I believe it means lockout 2.
    The Fenwal unit Diagnostic LED is OFF
    The return airfan is spinning freely when I spin it manually.


    Any idea in this situation? Any help is greatly appreciated


    I tried the reset of
    Off On Off On with 5s interval on each
    I powered off the unit for more than 10 mins I believe while I was disabling the ducts







    Thanks again

  2. #2
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    Diagnostic code 2 for TG is P-100 failed to close

    The TG series is slightly different to the TH, but I believe the diagnostics are pretty close.



    Does the combustion fan run ?, if so check the tubes from the fan shroud to the pressure switch for cracks.

    Note: If you are unsure of the requirements for making the unit safe and ready for maintenance then you would be best calling a service agent.

    If it is in lockout two the manual states an SCC Thermostat is required to reset it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dc2.jpg  
    Last edited by droog; 6th Apr 2020 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Additional information

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    If I'm not mistaken, the P100 is the temperature switch in the Heat Exchange chamber?
    In my unit, I just checked this using a multimeter, its closed at room temparature.

    No fan is running... even if I power cycle for the GPO.

    I'll try to upload a video if it helps

  4. #4
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    I believe the P100 is the switch temperature sensor in the Heat Exchange Chamber.
    I measured that using a multimeter, and its closed state.
    No Fans are running even if I power off then on in the GPO

    Droog, inyo your opinio what would be the best option, buy the PCB board or buy the SCC Thermostat if they are priced similar?
    is the SCC Thermostat easy to install, just plug in the SCC port?



    Thanks

  5. #5
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    The page of the diagnostics I put up is about the pressure switch that detects if the combustion fan is running. P100 is the pressure switch linked by rubber hose to the combustion fan shroud.

    So if you power reset the unit, then set the thermostat does the heater attempt to start ?
    Here is the startup checklist.
    startup.jpg
    I would not be purchasing a PCB, the most likely fault in all electronic devices is a mechanical part, eg sensor, switch etc
    The SCC should come with a cable and just plugs in

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    Its the white/clear hose right? no I have not checked that. will try to remove it and blow into it. I don't hear the unit on top of the Heat Exchange whirling or whining...


    Video of my unit
    https://youtu.be/_A290u9kCCQ
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2020-04-05-15.34.32.jpg  

  7. #7
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    What is the normal status of the
    POWER
    ON
    GAS

    if the thermostat is OFF / OPEN?

  8. #8
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    Yes the clear hose, dont bother blowing into it if the unit on top of the Heat Exchange is not running. That is the combustion fan and it is the first thing that starts running when heat is called for even before gas or spark. An error 2 occurs when there is no pressure from the fan but the fan has to run first.

    Do a power reset on the unit, when the thermostat calls for heat the combustion fan should run, after there is pressure from the fan the gas valve will open and then the igniter should fire.

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    Will a Spektrolink help me in this scenario?

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    Follow the startup checklist as above, the Power led should be green with power on. The ON turns red when heat is called for.

    Cant see a GAS led in the checklist but would assume its when gas is called for so off until after the combustion fan is detected running via P100

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    I believe you can do everything except reset a lockout 2, and it makes it easier to read the codes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    Follow the startup checklist as above, the Power led should be green with power on. The ON turns red when heat is called for.

    Cant see a GAS led in the checklist but would assume its when gas is called for so off until after the combustion fan is detected running via P100
    When I reset the power from the GPO, the POWER comes GREEN SOLID, but the ON LED starts to flash straight away


    I should be able to measure 24V AC in these two terminals on the combustion fan right?

    2020-04-05-15.34.32.jpg

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    Unfortunately I think you have gone as far as you can and a SCC is needed. The ON led should not flash straight away. Maybe it is in lockout 2.

    Not sure of the voltage but I suspect it would be 240 volt not 24

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    I climb up again to check the voltage... 0V on the muilti meter.

    Thanks again droog to a very prompt response. I really appreciate it.
    Let me see if I can source a SCC

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    Hi Droog,

    Are there different models of the SCC? I can see model but looks the same
    SPECTROLINK 077314
    SPECTROLINK 093086

    I was told the 093086 is not compaitble with TH3

  16. #16
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    Sorry out of my league to comment on. Not aware of different models.

    Just checked the doco I have which was for the TG series, spectrolink model 076010, not sure on compatibility of the SCC models.

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    Update... I replaced the board... now my fan blower isn't spinning
    Capacitor or the fan motor itself?

    https://youtu.be/xcLEiG19Rxk

    EDIT : I took out the capacitor... I don't have a MFD tester so I just use ohms test. I test it using the 2 leads on the two terminals... I get OL... then I swap the leads I get 0.0 then OL... then swap again I get 0.0 then OL...
    my capactor "maybe good"?

  18. #18
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    Replaced the CAPACITOR and still have that whining sound and the fan still not spinning.

    How to test the motor?

  19. #19
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    The noise sounds like it is trying to run the blower fan.

    Can you spin the blower fan ? If so it’s not jammed. What happens if you spin it when it is making the sound ?

    If you had the spectrolink controller you can put it into setup mode and run the fan by itself to set its maximum speed.

    Edit, startup checklist you are at 8
    clipboard01.jpg

    Winding resistance
    clipboard03.jpg
    Last edited by droog; 28th Apr 2020 at 09:11 PM. Reason: Added checklist

  20. #20
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    I bought a Spectrolink second hand... I was able to turn on the heater from the SCC and OFF.

    I even put back the original board to reset it but either my SCC is not functioning well or the board is stuff and needs Braemar because I can see the Wrench Icon
    With the DOOR Open, when I push the RESET button it turns ON the heater and then OFF... instead of resetting it. Is that normal?
    Saw in the document that code 19 should be reset in Service Mode.. will try that as well

    I'll check the fan tomorrow... in the FAN Loom there are three wires... Black, Blue and Brown. I'm assuming the 75V AC is from the Blue and Brown?
    If I'm facing the fan wherein the HEAT Exchange is on the left the blower on the right, how does the fan rotate? clockwise or counter?

    I replace the Capacitor with the same Capacitance 15uf 450VAC

    This is me trying to reset the LOCKOUT2
    https://youtu.be/dOUAW3HTW7w

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    Hmm... My previous was delete... My mistake maybe.
    Anyway, I've climb back up again. Tried again and measured the volatag across the Blue and Brown Wire on the Fan leads. I'm getting 100V AC
    I also tried to spin the fan clockwise while I'm hearing the winning noise. Still did not help.

  22. #22
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    Voltage sounds fine, trying to spin the fan takes the start winding and capacitor out of the equation.
    Did you measure the winding resistance ?


    Page 31 of the service troubleshooting gives you the info for code 19.
    Did you do a reset from service mode

    Also noticed your board appears to have trim pot for max fan speed adjustment, page 14 of the system install.

    Section8_ServiceTroubleshoot.pdfSection5_SystemInstall.pdf

  23. #23
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    Winding resistance... I forgot about that will check tomorrow.

    So I put back my old board just to try to reset it wih SCC
    I pressed the zone 3 for 5 sec, I got a F01 with 19 at the bottom and the RESET. At this point I'm expecting the RESET to blink, but its not blinking. So when I press the RESET button it goes back to main menu I think. RESET with Wrench Icon with 19 error code. I tried this several times but no luck.



    I tried another way of reset, I pressed the Zone 3 for 5 sec. Next screen was F01 with code 19 and RESET. I pressed the FAN for 5 sec. it cleared the 19 to --



    But when I press RESET it goes back. I thought it reset it. But the WRENCH icon went back, RESET and the was now 00



    My Trim pot is all the way to the right
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails capture.png   capture2.png   capture3.png  

  24. #24
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    Winding resistance

    Black and Brown 1 ohm
    Brown and Blue 11 ohms

    Black and Brown is the culprit? easy fix? Replace motor?

    Where is it best to remove the fan housing? From the side or the front where the motor is.

    Tnx

  25. #25
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    I think it is from the side, the system install manual has the process for swapping the inlet / outlet side, once some of the panels are removed it becomes obvious.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    I think it is from the side, the system install manual has the process for swapping the inlet / outlet side, once some of the panels are removed it becomes obvious.
    Yup, I was able to take it out from the side.

    What do you think? its motor problem?
    Black and Brown showing 1 ohm instead of 24-26 ohms

  27. #27
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    Can only go with the documentation, if it’s supposed to be 24-26 and it is 1 then that is a big issue.
    Double check the reading before spending money, assume you are checking with the motor disconnected so there is no external factors.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    Can only go with the documentation, if itís supposed to be 24-26 and it is 1 then that is a big issue.
    Double check the reading before spending money, assume you are checking with the motor disconnected so there is no external factors.
    Thanks so much for the help. I really appreciate it.
    Cheers

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