Baemar TH320 in lockout 2

If I'm not mistaken, the P100 is the temperature switch in the Heat Exchange chamber?
In my unit, I just checked this using a multimeter, its closed at room temparature.

No fan is running... even if I power cycle for the GPO.

I'll try to upload a video if it helps

I believe the P100 is the switch temperature sensor in the Heat Exchange Chamber.
I measured that using a multimeter, and its closed state.
No Fans are running even if I power off then on in the GPO

Droog, inyo your opinio what would be the best option, buy the PCB board or buy the SCC Thermostat if they are priced similar?
is the SCC Thermostat easy to install, just plug in the SCC port?



Thanks

The page of the diagnostics I put up is about the pressure switch that detects if the combustion fan is running. P100 is the pressure switch linked by rubber hose to the combustion fan shroud.

So if you power reset the unit, then set the thermostat does the heater attempt to start ?
Here is the startup checklist.

I would not be purchasing a PCB, the most likely fault in all electronic devices is a mechanical part, eg sensor, switch etc
The SCC should come with a cable and just plugs in

Its the white/clear hose right? no I have not checked that. will try to remove it and blow into it. I don't hear the unit on top of the Heat Exchange whirling or whining...


Video of my unit
https://youtu.be/_A290u9kCCQ

What is the normal status of the
POWER
ON
GAS

if the thermostat is OFF / OPEN?

Yes the clear hose, dont bother blowing into it if the unit on top of the Heat Exchange is not running. That is the combustion fan and it is the first thing that starts running when heat is called for even before gas or spark. An error 2 occurs when there is no pressure from the fan but the fan has to run first.

Do a power reset on the unit, when the thermostat calls for heat the combustion fan should run, after there is pressure from the fan the gas valve will open and then the igniter should fire.

Will a Spektrolink help me in this scenario?

Follow the startup checklist as above, the Power led should be green with power on. The ON turns red when heat is called for.

Cant see a GAS led in the checklist but would assume its when gas is called for so off until after the combustion fan is detected running via P100

I believe you can do everything except reset a lockout 2, and it makes it easier to read the codes.

Originally Posted by droog

Follow the startup checklist as above, the Power led should be green with power on. The ON turns red when heat is called for.

Cant see a GAS led in the checklist but would assume its when gas is called for so off until after the combustion fan is detected running via P100

When I reset the power from the GPO, the POWER comes GREEN SOLID, but the ON LED starts to flash straight away


I should be able to measure 24V AC in these two terminals on the combustion fan right?

Unfortunately I think you have gone as far as you can and a SCC is needed. The ON led should not flash straight away. Maybe it is in lockout 2.

Not sure of the voltage but I suspect it would be 240 volt not 24

I climb up again to check the voltage... 0V on the muilti meter.

Thanks again droog to a very prompt response. I really appreciate it.
Let me see if I can source a SCC

Hi Droog,

Are there different models of the SCC? I can see model but looks the same
SPECTROLINK 077314
SPECTROLINK 093086

I was told the 093086 is not compaitble with TH3

Sorry out of my league to comment on. Not aware of different models.

Just checked the doco I have which was for the TG series, spectrolink model 076010, not sure on compatibility of the SCC models.

Update... I replaced the board... now my fan blower isn't spinning
Capacitor or the fan motor itself?

https://youtu.be/xcLEiG19Rxk

EDIT : I took out the capacitor... I don't have a MFD tester so I just use ohms test. I test it using the 2 leads on the two terminals... I get OL... then I swap the leads I get 0.0 then OL... then swap again I get 0.0 then OL...
my capactor "maybe good"?

Replaced the CAPACITOR and still have that whining sound and the fan still not spinning.

How to test the motor?

I bought a Spectrolink second hand... I was able to turn on the heater from the SCC and OFF.

I even put back the original board to reset it but either my SCC is not functioning well or the board is stuff and needs Braemar because I can see the Wrench Icon
With the DOOR Open, when I push the RESET button it turns ON the heater and then OFF... instead of resetting it. Is that normal?
Saw in the document that code 19 should be reset in Service Mode.. will try that as well

I'll check the fan tomorrow... in the FAN Loom there are three wires... Black, Blue and Brown. I'm assuming the 75V AC is from the Blue and Brown?
If I'm facing the fan wherein the HEAT Exchange is on the left the blower on the right, how does the fan rotate? clockwise or counter?

I replace the Capacitor with the same Capacitance 15uf 450VAC

This is me trying to reset the LOCKOUT2
https://youtu.be/dOUAW3HTW7w

Hmm... My previous was delete... My mistake maybe.
Anyway, I've climb back up again. Tried again and measured the volatag across the Blue and Brown Wire on the Fan leads. I'm getting 100V AC
I also tried to spin the fan clockwise while I'm hearing the winning noise. Still did not help.

Voltage sounds fine, trying to spin the fan takes the start winding and capacitor out of the equation.
Did you measure the winding resistance ?


Page 31 of the service troubleshooting gives you the info for code 19.
Did you do a reset from service mode

Also noticed your board appears to have trim pot for max fan speed adjustment, page 14 of the system install.

Section8_ServiceTroubleshoot.pdfSection5_SystemInstall.pdf

Winding resistance... I forgot about that will check tomorrow.

So I put back my old board just to try to reset it wih SCC
I pressed the zone 3 for 5 sec, I got a F01 with 19 at the bottom and the RESET. At this point I'm expecting the RESET to blink, but its not blinking. So when I press the RESET button it goes back to main menu I think. RESET with Wrench Icon with 19 error code. I tried this several times but no luck.



I tried another way of reset, I pressed the Zone 3 for 5 sec. Next screen was F01 with code 19 and RESET. I pressed the FAN for 5 sec. it cleared the 19 to --



But when I press RESET it goes back. I thought it reset it. But the WRENCH icon went back, RESET and the was now 00



My Trim pot is all the way to the right

Winding resistance

Black and Brown 1 ohm
Brown and Blue 11 ohms

Black and Brown is the culprit? easy fix? Replace motor?

Where is it best to remove the fan housing? From the side or the front where the motor is.

Tnx

I think it is from the side, the system install manual has the process for swapping the inlet / outlet side, once some of the panels are removed it becomes obvious.

Originally Posted by droog

I think it is from the side, the system install manual has the process for swapping the inlet / outlet side, once some of the panels are removed it becomes obvious.

Yup, I was able to take it out from the side.

What do you think? its motor problem?
Black and Brown showing 1 ohm instead of 24-26 ohms

Can only go with the documentation, if it’s supposed to be 24-26 and it is 1 then that is a big issue.
Double check the reading before spending money, assume you are checking with the motor disconnected so there is no external factors.

Originally Posted by droog

Can only go with the documentation, if it’s supposed to be 24-26 and it is 1 then that is a big issue.
Double check the reading before spending money, assume you are checking with the motor disconnected so there is no external factors.

Thanks so much for the help. I really appreciate it.
Cheers