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brivis he30i and 10ft ceilings

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Queanbeyan (ACT)

    Default brivis he30i and 10ft ceilings

    hey guys how will this work out if i put a he30i in a place with 10ft ceilings? it'll make the job so much easier if it goes in the ceiling

    under the house there is room for the unit near the manhole, the duct could be run under the house but will be a real pain.

    if ideally i choose to go under the house can the heating unit be placed under there instead of the ceiling space, provided its off the ground a bit

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2008


    can't speak for HE30i but have a HE30e here with ducts under-floor in melbourne.

    when its installed there are settings on the controller in the main unit that the installer can use for setting rate of airflow etc.
    it can really push the air if you want it to - if your ducts are up to it.

    reality is that there are lots of variables - # of outlets / rooms, how good the ductwork layout is in minimizing air restrictions, size of the outlets themselves.

    i would not consider 10ft ceilings to be an issue with vents in the ceiling if that is what you are asking. whether the ducts are in the floor or ceiling you will naturally end up with more heat higher up - so may want to consider ways to address that anyway - e.g. ceiling fans.

    if you are looking for a unit to go outside, why not use the right unit for the job though - HE30e as opposed to HE30i???

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Queanbeyan (ACT)


    thanks for the reply, its going to be about 12 points. the owner builder has already purchased the unit. so with the varible speeds on the networker it would be no dramas with the 10 ft ceilings

  4. #4
    Old Chippy 6K
    Join Date
    Mar 2007


    Doesn't matter so much about the brand - the unit needs to be sized correctly for the area it needs to heat. That will vary if it is ceiling mounted as opposed to floor mounted. Queanbeyan is a cool temperate climate and heating supplied from above will be significantly more inefficient than from below - and more importantly will not feel as comfortable and even by the occupants (the whole point of heating & cooling).

    So as a general principle heating should come from below and cooling from above. Noise can often be harder to restrict in ceiling mounted units too - sitting on a concrete plinth on the ground the main noise will be from the fan although people in a bedroom above or near and adjacent wall can hear fan and burner noise - which can be disruptive and noticeable and irritating even when within the legal specs.

    In a ceiling the unit's regular noises can be amplified because it sits on the timber frame will be hard to isolate (most installers do not even do the minimum such as the purposes built isolation mounts that are optional from most manufacturers). So those regular burner and fan noises can often seem louder and be heard more easily throughout the house than underfloor or externally mounted units and other noises such as vibration can be transmitted through the timber roof structure (can be worse in metal framed houses).

    Having covered those general issues the ceiling void space and access is more important than ceiling height. The 3.6m ceiling height means that the problems that occur from roof supplied heating even on a standard 2.4m ceiling are made worse. So proper (and professional) system design and vent placement is even more important and use of ceiling fans for winter air circulation might be valuable. And pay the extra at installation to have the system zoned - most houses will benefit in comfort and energy costs by having two zones and many with three or more (if large). You have a little control with vents, but the air is already heated and sitting in the ducts. Zones means those areas are shut off unless needed.

    For fans remember that they work in two different ways - in summer the fan needs only to be on when there are people in the room as they cool by evaporating moisture on human skin - the room itself and the furniture and fittings etc at whatever temperature they are at - the fan does not 'cool' it just moves air. In winter the fans can be used to get a more even supply of the warm air through an area - even with fan forced heating - if the room have high ceilings or odd shapes. In winter fans can be on when the room is unoccupied and off when they are (although not for extended periods like overnight) as the same principle applies to how the people feel - in summer they feel cool as the air moves, in winter they feel the same thing as cold drafts!

    If you do have ducting installed then make sure the ducts are not simply connected and sealed using 'duct tape' - funnily enough the plastic 'duct tape' not really the proper tape for ductwork. You should use thermal aluminium duct tape. Make sure you insulate any ductwork that is exposed - such as plastic or metal fittings (junctions etc) using foil blanket strips. Also seal gaps where the vents come into the room so that all the heated air goes inside the houses not back into the floor or ceiling voids. These simple things done once correctly will repay for the system life in better system performance, greater comfort and lower bills. The evidence suggests that around 20% of system heat is lost from thermal leakage in the system - mostly ductwork. That's money straight onto your bill.

    In summary unless you have no option do not roof mount heating and heating outlets (there are newer renewable systems that mount externally, but vents are low down - I refer here to fossil fuel systems). That'll make the house more liveable and comfortable and will save you money on your energy bills. Oh, and make sure you have draft proofed and insulated the house, have heavy curtains and pelmets (closed unless sun is streaming in) and so on or you really will be just burning cash through your new heater.
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

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