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  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian7886 View Post
    did you miss where i wrote border line?

    I would consider it in between top and 2nd tier, but its basically priced (rrp) into that top tier sort of unit. If someone offered me any of Panasonic Mitsubishi (Heavy or Electric) Fujitsu, Daikin or Lg. Lg definitely wouldnt be the 1 i would take thats for sure. Panasonic to me would probably make the best quality, lowest break down rate and best performing air con (in split systems) on the market. Thats my opinion. And i rarely even sell them anymore (only because they supply in large quantities to retailers and they sell them for less than our cost most the time). We go to 10's of 1000s of breakdowns every year on air cons, sell 1000s and install 1000s more that we havent sold every year. I know what i wouldnt want in my house.

    Saying that LG have improved a great deal in the last few years. Their 'neo plasma' era of air cons were shocking. They do have a good parts supply though, generally over night every time
    Thanks for this post and the one above - I am looking at heat pumps right now (ACT has heavy winter cooling needs only occasional summer A/C needs) and to get a 'review' from an experienced industry person is a good 'word of mouth' reference. Getting advice that isn't just a sales pitch is hard - and I no longer have my former industry links with people like you who were installing and maintaining every working day.

    Sorry for the hijack Su! )
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloss View Post
    ACT has heavy winter cooling needs
    Cooling the house, in winter, in the ACT.

    At least you won't need to worry about having a fridge. Or for that matter you probably won't need a freezer either.

  3. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloss View Post
    Thanks for this post and the one above - I am looking at heat pumps right now (ACT has heavy winter cooling needs only occasional summer A/C needs) and to get a 'review' from an experienced industry person is a good 'word of mouth' reference. Getting advice that isn't just a sales pitch is hard - and I no longer have my former industry links with people like you who were installing and maintaining every working day.

    Sorry for the hijack Su! )
    No probs. It's been an interesting thread. Keep it going.

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian7886 View Post
    I just got back from installing a 5kw fuji in the designer range. Great little unit. U will be restricted by height as when it runs the front face lifts up to allow air in and air out. Depending on what you have cornise wise this may restrict u
    Hi Brian, still wondering how much space I might need to install this above the front door.

  5. #155
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    You may struggle over a door unless you have high ceilings. Generally you want at least 150mm gap between the top of the unit and ceiling.

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    Hi Brian, still wondering how much space I might need to install this above the front door.

    https://www.fujitsugeneral.com.au/pr...cificationsTab

    well the unit is 282mm high. The face will rise between 50-70mm i think. cornice is generally enough, so mounting it 20-30mm below the corning (giving it room to get onto the bracket) should be fine. Basically if you have a bit over 300mm between corning and door frame/trim you will be sweet

  7. #157
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    If it's above a door be mindful of the external stuff, compressor, pipe and wiring ducting and how it will look.

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    If it's above a door be mindful of the external stuff, compressor, pipe and wiring ducting and how it will look.
    a good installer would still use colour bond and match it in well with the exterior of the house. Mitred corners etc etc

  9. #159
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    The install instructions for ours (Electrolux) said not to place the indoor unit above a door. Never did find out why not to, but we put it there anyway as there was really no other option for us to maximise reach in our space. We planned it while doing the extension so all pipes are concealed within the frame. No pipes looks great, but sometimes (like right now!) wonder "what if something goes wrong"...

  10. #160
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    Default Looking for aircon advise

    Or if it was not r410a/r32 rated pipe you cant re-use it on future units.

  11. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian7886 View Post
    Or if it was not r410a/r32 rated pipe you cant re-use it on future units.
    Yes, same issue here. Pipes routed through house frame and has to be replaced for any new unit. The science of understanding such contamination would be interesting.

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smurf View Post
    Cooling the house, in winter, in the ACT.

    At least you won't need to worry about having a fridge. Or for that matter you probably won't need a freezer either.
    Ah - the problem with trying to do a quick post . . . heating of course . . .
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

  13. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    Yes, same issue here. Pipes routed through house frame and has to be replaced for any new unit. The science of understanding such contamination would be interesting.
    not just that mate. Walls are thicker in the newer pipe, and newer pipe doesnt have a seam like the older r22 rated stuff. The r410a/r32 units run on a higher pressure and i have seen a fair few times people who have replaced units with the old pipes and pin holes appearing in the seams etc.

    Its like anything, if you put in a new wall oven that was rated at 32A would you leave your 20A circuit? Probably not.

  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian7886 View Post
    not just that mate. Walls are thicker in the newer pipe, and newer pipe doesnt have a seam like the older r22 rated stuff. The r410a/r32 units run on a higher pressure and i have seen a fair few times people who have replaced units with the old pipes and pin holes appearing in the seams etc.

    Its like anything, if you put in a new wall oven that was rated at 32A would you leave your 20A circuit? Probably not.
    How old is 'old'? Our extension was 2002/3. What was the standard then?

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    Quote Originally Posted by r3nov8or View Post
    How old is 'old'? Our extension was 2002/3. What was the standard then?
    thats pretty much on the border line mate. around 2002 the r410A units were starting to creep in, along with more and more inverter models. Its not hard to tell the 2 apart, a fridgey would be able to tell them apart on inspection very easily.

  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian7886 View Post
    thats pretty much on the border line mate. around 2002 the r410A units were starting to creep in, along with more and more inverter models. Its not hard to tell the 2 apart, a fridgey would be able to tell them apart on inspection very easily.
    Isn't the gas type written on the compressor, I pretty sure it is on mine.

  17. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    Isn't the gas type written on the compressor, I pretty sure it is on mine.
    yeah but if you had an air con re-installed later on you could use r410A rated pipe with r22 gas too. Just not the other way round.

  18. #168
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    Thanks Brian. Our ceilings are high enough. Haven't measured but we've got plenty of room above door. I'll get the installer specialist in and discuss the different options with him. Cheers everyone.

  19. #169
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    To update the thread, we got the air con installed today. Nice to have contacts as apparently others will be waiting quite a while. This is the one we got ASTG18LUCB FUJITSU 5.0KW INVERTER SPLIT SYSTEM "DESIGNER RANGE" It's a Fujitsu 5kw and lookin ok on the wall. Bit better than I expected. I decided to hide the drain behind the architrave so all I had to do was cut the weatherboards back a bit to fit that in. The installer ran the pipes along the underneath of the verandah roof so that's pretty good too. Cost about 530 bucks





    Come on summer....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg   image-1-.jpg  

  20. #170
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    That looks really neat Su, drain nicely hidden too. Reckon you got a good size as well

  21. #171
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    Yes, nice job. All looks neat.

  22. #172
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    Default Looking for aircon advise

    Not bad. Still not a fan of plastic trunking as it will discolour. A few saddles on the pipes wouldnt have hurt either. 530 bucks is a great price i wouldnt have done that for 530.

  23. #173
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    Thought it was a reasonable price as well.

  24. #174
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    I wont do an air con for less than 600 unless its a swap over using duct power and slab.

  25. #175
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    Almost Dentist money there.

  26. #176
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    Wouldn't say dentist money. Three guys (two being apprentices) working on it plus the electrician, because he's so busy and wouldn't have fitted it in any other way. Not sure how long it took, bit less than a couple of hours (not everyone there the whole time). I did the work for the hiding of the drain pipe.

    The electrician put a switch in and pulled wires. That was difficult for both of them due to how much insulation kept getting in everyone's way. I work with electrician on other jobs and will do so in the future so he's probably looking after me as well. The fact they all co-ordinated so quickly was awesome.

    It's country town stuff and knowing each other, me building work contacts, Tanya (property manager is her job) giving him lots of work in the past, etc. Also just nice guys.

    I know of another installation that will be done by a plumber because they can't get this guy until next January sometime. They were quoted a Fujitsu 5kw installed for $2600. Ours worked out at $2000

  27. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian7886 View Post
    Not bad. Still not a fan of plastic trunking as it will discolour. A few saddles on the pipes wouldnt have hurt either. 530 bucks is a great price i wouldnt have done that for 530.
    Do you mean the stuff over the door? I think I'll paint it the same colour as the house. Bit of undercoat first. I would have thought some sort of sleeve over the pipes but I don't know what materials you guys have available.

  28. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    Do you mean the stuff over the door? I think I'll paint it the same colour as the house. Bit of undercoat first. I would have thought some sort of sleeve over the pipes but I don't know what materials you guys have available.
    Could you cover that pipework with 10mm weathertex placing over the nearby batten, care not to force the pipes near the unit.

  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    Do you mean the stuff over the door? I think I'll paint it the same colour as the house. Bit of undercoat first. I would have thought some sort of sleeve over the pipes but I don't know what materials you guys have available.

    Yeah that stuff. I only use it in internal applications as it discolours so definitely throw some paint on it.

    Having now seen the situation id have taken the pipes through the roof/eave and down the cavity/through top plate to the indoor to avoid having anything visible at all near that door

  30. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    Almost Dentist money there.
    Not really. Unlike a dentist who used only tools, there is plenty of materials on an air con install. Pipe, trunking, wires, drain gear, plus if needed slabs brackets etc. by the time u pay out wages there is no law against earning a buck. Not to mention you cant go charging heaps more than other blokes or u dont get the work.
    And we are dual trade so do all wiring and piping unlike some who wont touch a wire and charge 500 for the install. Then a sparky 200 to run the wires.

  31. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    Wouldn't say dentist money. Three guys (two being apprentices) working on it plus the electrician, because he's so busy and wouldn't have fitted it in any other way. Not sure how long it took, bit less than a couple of hours (not everyone there the whole time). I did the work for the hiding of the drain pipe.

    The electrician put a switch in and pulled wires. That was difficult for both of them due to how much insulation kept getting in everyone's way. I work with electrician on other jobs and will do so in the future so he's probably looking after me as well. The fact they all co-ordinated so quickly was awesome.

    It's country town stuff and knowing each other, me building work contacts, Tanya (property manager is her job) giving him lots of work in the past, etc. Also just nice guys.

    I know of another installation that will be done by a plumber because they can't get this guy until next January sometime. They were quoted a Fujitsu 5kw installed for $2600. Ours worked out at $2000

    Yeah 2000 is about right. I think our most recent price adjustments saw a 5kw designer at about 1350 or so. So 650 takes up the rest

  32. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian7886 View Post
    Not really. Unlike a dentist who used only tools, there is plenty of materials on an air con install. Pipe, trunking, wires, drain gear, plus if needed slabs brackets etc. by the time u pay out wages there is no law against earning a buck. Not to mention you cant go charging heaps more than other blokes or u dont get the work.
    And we are dual trade so do all wiring and piping unlike some who wont touch a wire and charge 500 for the install. Then a sparky 200 to run the wires.
    Took it to mean pretty much around $600 for swap over with everything there already, wiring pipes etc. I know if supplying material and sparkie it has to be more. Su's deal was good.

  33. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian7886 View Post
    Yeah that stuff. I only use it in internal applications as it discolours so definitely throw some paint on it.

    Having now seen the situation id have taken the pipes through the roof/eave and down the cavity/through top plate to the indoor to avoid having anything visible at all near that door
    Do you do all jobs this way because so many wouldn't just wanting to do quick and easy. Don't you find going down the wall cavity a bit hard to do with noggins and roofing getting in the way!
    I commend you as I found myself doing this for one I have.

  34. #184
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    Every job is different. Anything where i have to go into a roof i go through cavity. Neater, easier. Not exactly faster. Ill drill down with an extension rod to get through noggins if need be.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    Took it to mean pretty much around $600 for swap over with everything there already, wiring pipes etc. I know if supplying material and sparkie it has to be more. Su's deal was good.
    As i said before, cant re-use pipe from r22 gas, you would vac it for 3 days to try to dry it of any remnents of r22. Not worth it. Unless it was chased in walls in a high rise or something that is. Then you do what you gotta go

  36. #186
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    I know I would have to replace my pipe, but some units today (cheap ones) might be replaced after 5 years, are there newer gases in this short time that mean swapping pipes.

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    The job was complete install, including a slab, pipes and wiring. Nothing pre-existing.

    In this case, choosing to go over the verandah battens was ok with me.

    To get inside the ceiling/beneath the roof, would be tricky as there is a double ceiling and other unusual aspects to the construction that existed when we bought the place. The old ceiling was left in place and a new one built below. I think obstructions would have made it a drawn out process and cost way more than I was prepared to spend or do.

    I'm happy enough. Wouldn't mind not seeing the pipes but other than that...

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    If you were fussy, you could easily install some type of lightweight angle (plastic, zinc) attached to the wall and to behind the first roof batten to hide it all. But painted up you'll probably soon forget it's there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by r3nov8or View Post
    If you were fussy, you could easily install some type of lightweight angle (plastic, zinc) attached to the wall and to behind the first roof batten to hide it all. But painted up you'll probably soon forget it's there.
    If I get bored and run out of other things to do...

  40. #190
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    Good job stu,
    I am going around in circles with A/c for our place which we are middle of building looking like 11kw ducted around 8k plus


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    I think ducted would be my preference in the new house to be built. BTW, who's stu?

    Cheers, Su.

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    Nice external paint colour shauck. It looks like a grey from the photo, is it? Got a better photo showing the colour from a distance? I'm sick and tired of trying to choose the correct paint colour for our weatheboards...!

  43. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    I think ducted would be my preference in the new house to be built. BTW, who's stu?

    Cheers, Su.
    'Su' after a brew or two . . .?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloss View Post
    'Su' after a brew or two . . .?
    More stewed then stu

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChocDog View Post
    Nice external paint colour shauck. It looks like a grey from the photo, is it? Got a better photo showing the colour from a distance? I'm sick and tired of trying to choose the correct paint colour for our weatheboards...!
    Thanks ChocDog. If you go the link, it will show you more pics of the painting stage of the reno. It's a light brown, sort of coffee coloured. Hides dirt well. It's Dulux Linseed for the walls and White Duck Quarter for the trim. So many cottages/houses using grey, I figured brown is the new grey.

    http://www.renovateforum.com/f176/18...02/index5.html

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    Stu is my alter ego. I get him to do all my heavy and hard work while I paint my nails.

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    Thanks for the info about the paint Shauck, much appreciated.

  48. #198
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    So let us all know how it works after the first time we get three or more 40+ days in a row.
    "A big boy did it and ran away"

    Legal disclaimer denying responsibility to be inserted here.

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    Sure will.

    I think I can say that after a high 30s day it worked pretty nice, especially in the lounge. We only put it on for a few hours in the late afternoon, set to 24 degrees. It didn't bring the bedrooms down as much as the lounge but I think if we put it on early in the day, it will keep the temp low to start with.

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    With only one head it takes a long time for the cooler air to circulate through a house, if you do need to cool the other rooms perhaps it's time to invest in that air transfer system.
    "A big boy did it and ran away"

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