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S/Soldering Copper pipes

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  1. #1
    "PHIL 'L FIXIT" ptrott's Avatar
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    Default S/Soldering Copper pipes

    Does anyone know the best silver solder flux to use on copper pipes,
    and best way to clean the inside of flared ends prior to s/soldering (0.5" pipes) ?

    Also, should the flame be slightly oxidising, slightly corbonising or neutral? (oxy & lpg)

    Thanks.
    Phill.

  2. #2
    gasfixeruperer
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    You don't need flux for brazing copper pipes together. Flux is only required when joining copper to brass. ideally you would heat the joint to not quite cherry red and the silver solder should run around and inside the joint. If it's sticking to the pipe like bird @@@@ then the copper's not getting hot enough. Oxy/LPG is fine. Good luck

  3. #3
    "PHIL 'L FIXIT" ptrott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peeeeda View Post
    ...... Flux is only required when joining copper to brass.

    There will be some of that combination too, so what brand is best?

    Cheers.
    phill.

  4. #4
    China
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    The outlet where you purchase the silver solder will have the flux, brand is not a big issue flame should be slightly carburisng, clean the cut ends with a pipe reamer most pipe cutters have one attached. I would not flare the end, I would expand the end or use a joiner. I strongly suggest that you practise on some offcut first to get the feel of it.

  5. #5
    "PHIL 'L FIXIT" ptrott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    .... I would not flare the end, I would expand the end or use a joiner....
    My bad choice of wording. I have expanded the ends, not flared them.
    Thanks to all for the tips.
    Cheers,
    Phill.

  6. #6
    Retired Marine Engineer 1K Club Member Ashore's Avatar
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    Get some stainless steel wool and clean inside and outside, in other words wherever you want the silver solder to flow should be absolutely clean.
    Using oxy , use a small tip and tip of the flame about 5-8mm , don't have a it too oxy , if you do use flux it will change colour to a green tint
    Keep the silver solder rod out of the flame as much as possible , when the copper is at the right temp touching the rod at the joint and the rod will melt and flow into the joint
    For a sliding fit , tube into expanded tube, you don't need a bead around the joint , you rely on the solder getting between the two surfaces

    and as china said practise first with and without flux

    but remember with silver solder cleanleness is next to .............
    Ashore




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  7. #7
    "PHIL 'L FIXIT" ptrott's Avatar
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    Thanks Ashore.

  8. #8
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    Flame should be neutral.
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

  9. #9
    China
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    wonderplumb I stand corrected, I was told 30 yrs ago, flame should be slightly carburising by a boilermaker for silver soldering copper plates and assumed it would be the same and it is how I always s/s copper pipes.

  10. #10
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    Your boiler maker friend is correct, however it's an entirely different application.
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

  11. #11
    2K Club Member barney118's Avatar
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    Use a flux its like a white paste and you get it from the same place you get the silver solder sticks a plumbing supplier. It helps with the flow of solder and cleans the pipe too. Add some flux put the connections together heat then add solder (after giving it a dip also in flux) at the join moving the flame away from the join as the solder will follw the heat/flame in a capillary action. You know when its hot enough as when you add solder it turns to liquid if you get blobs and it falls off its not hot enough, when heating the join stroke the heat left to right etc and the solder will follow.

  12. #12
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    Only use flux when joining two dissimilar metals, eg; copper to brass. Flux is not needed when joining copper to copper.
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

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