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2nd Storey Deck

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  1. #1
    Apprentice (new member)
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    Default 2nd Storey Deck

    I am wanting to build a second storey deck onto our 2 storey beach house. The beach house consists of a double brick first storey with a weatherboard second storey. I have attached a very rough proposed plan for some alterations to the second storey and this includes a large deck we would like to build.

    This issue with the deck is i need to really minimise the amount of posts/columns and as such I would like to build the posts and bearers out of steel and use timber joists and decking. I would only like to install posts at the corners of the deck which would include 5 in total. The biggest span between posts runs along the left hand side of the deck and this is approximately 10 metres.

    I know I would need to get this all engineered in order to have it appropriately sized but am wanting to put some costs together and as such was wondering whether anyone might know a UB size that could spans the 10 metres. What sort of steel are usually used from the columns. I would plan to steel bearers between the house and the outermost bearer to allow for joists to only have to span 2400mm. What sort of material should I be using for my ledger and is it ok to just bolt this directly to the masonry wall without any additional strucural support?

    Thanks very much
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  2. #2
    1K Club Member autogenous's Avatar
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    As you probably already know steel isnt your friend direct to the sea.

    Timber is much more resilient in that environment.

    To meet Australian standards within 1km of rolling ocean your standards in steel will be very demanding on the Wallet.

    At a guess I would say 300mm high x 10mm high UB would be needed to span 10 metres fully double dipped galv.

    Being I-beam may reduce the need for cleats welded on the back to take the purloins and other beams placed.

    If you Use C-channel then you will have to weld cleats on the back.
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  3. #3
    Rigid Member UteMad's Avatar
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    I think we are venturing out of the DIY sector a Tad

    cheers utemad

  4. #4
    Senior Member brynk's Avatar
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    gday spargs

    please see the attached piccy for a slightly less desirable option that will reduce your costs considerably -

    the red square is a 6th post right in the middle of your view.
    the red line is a hot-rolled countering I-beam that will receive the ends of your joists.

    the green lines are a couple of the proposed joists - these could be timber (probably expensive - deep / hardwood to span 4 m) or cold-rolled gal steel (probably cheaper)

    the blue lines are a few of the decking boards. you'll probably want more of these than what i could be bothered drawing though

    now, if you could accomodate 2 additional posts instead of 1, you could have 2 countering beams to cut your span down to < 3m's, making the joists doable with readily available timber.

    some things to check -

    1. how much space is there between the top of your bi-fold doors and the second storey floor level? this (these) countering beams will be deep ~ 250-300

    2. the long beam that runs from the lower left to the lower right, this will be bloody expensive & heavy. can you accomodate another post in here also inline with the post that supports the change of direction on the other side of the deck?

    3. have i guessed the way you wish your floorboards to run? if it's the other way around this changes things a bit.


    r's brynk
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  5. #5
    Senior Member brynk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UteMad View Post
    I think we are venturing out of the DIY sector a Tad

    cheers utemad
    surely you can lift a ton or three? just bust out the block & tackle! ... and here's me thinkin' you were hard-core
    "Man got the opposable thumb - woman got four opposable fingers." - Rowdy

  6. #6
    Rigid Member UteMad's Avatar
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    Hard core???

    More like abused and tired!!!!

    I had a neat little crane the other week to lift a 450 x 75 ply beam up into a second storey roof which was fun .... NOT

    the day we can start building from balsa wood i'll be a happy chippy

    cheers utemad

  7. #7
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    Thankyou all for your replies,

    I was actually thinking of having the decking running parrallel with the front of the house and hence the other direction to that modified plan...

    Re: DIY or not - yes its bordering on out of the average handyman league but if its properly planned I cant see why it would be too hard. Luckily I have access to a welder and can weld so that should make the fabrication out of steel a lot easier. In terms of lifting the beams I have thought that I would add another 400-500mm on the columns and weld a temporary piece of steel off the top of the column to hold a block and tackle. With a 500 kg block and tackle at each end of the beam (ie on each column) It should be easy to lift up the beam safely and hold it there while it is bolted in place. The columns can then but cut with a grinder or an an oxy to the required height of the beam once bolted up!

    The more I have looked into steel the more expensive I have found the project so I am planning on adding more posts to the sides of the deck and probably using timber bearers at the sides. The large span at the forward most part of the deck will be able to be achieved by using steel. I am having a drafty draw up some plans so it'll be interesting to see what he comes up with.

  8. #8
    Senior Member brynk's Avatar
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    "Man got the opposable thumb - woman got four opposable fingers." - Rowdy

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