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Deck Oil - Cutek vs Aussie Clear

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  1. #1
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    Default Deck Oil - Cutek vs Aussie Clear

    Hi all,

    Trying to choose a quality oil for our (almost completed) tallowwood deck.

    I've seen many recommendations and read great things about Cutek Extreme CD50 (mostly on these forums). But the hefty price tag and ongoing maintenance costs has prompted me to find some decent quality alternatives that might yield better value for money. At the end of the day I understand that you get what you pay for and I'm prepared to fork out for Cutek, but before I do I'd at least like to know that I've explored some alternatives.

    I've come across several recommendations for Aussie Clear and was particularly drawn to it for it's comparatively low price. But I'm curious to compare the ingredients in both so I know what I'm paying for.

    Questions
    1. Does anyone have first hand experience using both oils and care to comment?
    2. Can any knowledgeable peeps or industry gurus help analyse and compare the ingredients of both oils (below)
    3. Can anyone recommend another decent quality oil more reasonably priced than Cutek?


    Cutek Extreme CD50 Ingredients
    Naphtha petroleum, heavy, hydrotreated 10-30%
    Phosphoric esters <10%
    Copper 8-quinolinol <1%
    Xylene <1%
    Paraffinic distillate, heavy, hydrotreated (severe) 30-60%
    4,5-dichloro-2-octyl-3(2H)-isothiazolone <1%

    cutek-cd50.png


    Aussie Clear ingredients
    Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated light 3050%
    Alkyd Resin 1030%
    Mineral Turpentine 1030%
    IPBC <0.5%
    Ingredients determined not to be hazardous - Proprietary to 100%
    aussieclear.png




    BTW what is the difference between Cutek Extreme, Cutek CD50 and Cutek Extreme CD50?

    Thanks heaps

  2. #2
    Senior Member DEMAK Timber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuckster View Post
    BTW what is the difference between Cutek Extreme, Cutek CD50 and Cutek Extreme CD50?

    Thanks heaps
    G'day Stuckster,

    We sell heaps of Cutek, I can help you with the last question.

    CD50 was recently discontinued because the Cutek Extreme was just a better product over all. (Including better colour retention.) "Extreme" has been rebranded "CD50 Extreme" just to keep the popular CD50 name in it still.

    https://www.demak.com.au/brands/cutek/

    Cheers,
    DEMAK Outdoor Timber & Hardware

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEMAK Timber View Post
    CD50 was recently discontinued because the Cutek Extreme was just a better product over all. (Including better colour retention.) "Extreme" has been rebranded "CD50 Extreme" just to keep the popular CD50 name in it still.
    Thanks. Thought it must have been something like that.

  4. #4
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    Can anyone comment on the ingredients or have any experience using both products?

  5. #5
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    CUTEK = Heavier Naphtha and less of it is better than light distalates.
    Phosphoric esters have components that are hydrophobic (repel water)
    Copper 8-quinolinol repels bugs.
    All round best ingredients I have found in Oz.

    Aussie clear; light Distillates, Alkyd resin is a drying agent that makes some think it's better.

    No wonder it's cheaper, up to 30% Turps.

    You are right Stuckster, you get what you pay for!

    In my opinion Cutek will end up cheaper over time as, if applied correctly, lasts an awfully long time.















    9repel

  6. #6
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    Thanks Bushy.
    I wonder if Cutek with the heavier naphtha will be good for Tallowwood, being a very dense wood. Is it possible that a lighter oil with more thinners might have better penetration?

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    Well Spotted Gum is also very dense and oily and I couldn't be happier with my results and the products longevity, Think Cutek underestimates recoat time to avoid any comeback, but I am amazed how long it lasts.

  8. #8
    Jon
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    Default Deck Oil - Cutek vs Aussie Clear

    What is the drying time of Cutek in real life? We don't stand a chance of keeping the dog off the deck and get him boarded overnight when recoating with Cabots oil.
    I am not happy with yellow tinge the Cabot's has and considering trying something different next time.

    Sk

  9. #9
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    I believe it's about 5-7 days depending on the temp. It's probably one of the slower drying oils out there.

  10. #10
    Jon
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    Default Deck Oil - Cutek vs Aussie Clear

    Quote Originally Posted by Stuckster View Post
    I believe it's about 5-7 days depending on the temp. It's probably one of the slower drying oils out there.
    There is no way that would work for the dog, he would not cope being locked in the back yard away from the rest of the family for that long.
    He pretty much lives on the deck, dozing where he can keep an eye on us.

    Sk

  11. #11
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    As much as Cutex seems to be a good product from users report, with the long open time and the cocktail of toxic ingredients, I would go for the cheaper yet safer alternative.
    Check the safety data on the 3 component that are at 1%.

    Aussie Clear has a small amount of isopropyl butylcarbamate, that is also mildly toxic for fungicide, but compared to xylene and the other two biocide, it's a boy scout.
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon View Post
    There is no way that would work for the dog, he would not cope being locked in the back yard away from the rest of the family for that long.
    Sk
    Yep. I guess you might have to go with a faster drying product or oil the deck just before you go on holidays or something. ?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Aussie Clear has a small amount of isopropyl butylcarbamate, that is also mildly toxic for fungicide, but compared to xylene and the other two biocide, it's a boy scout.
    Thanks for pitching in Marc.
    The better brands all seem to contain some form of biocide. Dunno if there are any effective, non-toxic alternatives out there?
    Also recently painted our entire pool using xylene as the thinner. Pretty full on stuff, but I was also wearing a respirator. Are you mostly concerned with exposure to these chemicals in the application stage or longer term through skin absorption etc?

  14. #14
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    All deck oils have fungicide, because they all have vegetable oils in the mix, and vegetable oil promotes mould. It's a matter of choosing the less toxic considering you will eventually lay on the deck with your bare back.
    Cutec is made with paraffin oil that is mineral and therefore does not polymerise and needs to rely on the weather allowing the wood to suck the stuff in, since it will never dry otherwise. Why would they add a cocktail of fungicide of that nature to an all mineral mix is beyond me. The oil does not oxidise. However the longer the open time the more the chances of someone to get in contact with the product in liquid form.
    But that is just my opinion

    PS
    If someone believes his deck needs a fungicide, buy a cheap pot of 4L 30 second roof treatment that contains ADBAC, spray, and oil the next day. You could even spray top and bottom
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
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    Many decking products (including ours from Boral) have already been treated with ACQ which contains a fungicide and pesticide. Therefore is there any need to add more chemicals into the mix with the deck oil? What is the effective life of ACQ treatments?

  16. #16
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    If you use treated pine, surely don't need more treatment, I was under the impression you were using hardwood.

    As for how long is a piece of string ... it depends of level of treatment, quality of the timber used, climate, exposure, surroundings, method of construction etc

    ACQ is applied at pressure but is soluble in water. The compound is stable but will wash away from the exterior layers. When I have seen CCP TP under cover that is 30 years old, I have demolished a few that did not make it to 10 years. ACQ? who knows.

    However most TP this days is LOSP that is copper naphthenate and pyrethroids in turps.
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    If you use treated pine, surely don't need more treatment, I was under the impression you were using hardwood.
    Thanks.
    We are using Tallowwood. 😉

  18. #18
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    THen it is not pressure treated, they may apply a lick of ACQ to avoid mold when in the pack.
    Tallow is good stuff.
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    THen it is not pressure treated, they may apply a lick of ACQ to avoid mold when in the pack.
    I wondered the same thing, so I sent Boral an email specifically asking to clarify the treatment applied.
    This was their response.

    "Hi,

    Tallowwood decking is H3 ACQ treated"


    Do you think the person who responded may have got it wrong?

  20. #20
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
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    Maybe ask method of application.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    Maybe ask method of application.
    Yeah I just called them again this morning to double check and they confirmed that their tallow decking is H3 pressure treated (mainly for the sap) the same way TP is.
    So I guess that's a good thing. The only downside is I can't use the offcuts for firewood

  22. #22
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    Hardwood class 1 for in contact with soil, is pressure treated by the good folks at Boral. You always learn something new.
    I wonder how many know of this pearl of wisdom?
    Yep, don't burn the offcuts if it is from Boral.

    https://www.boral.com.au/sites/defau...ed%20SDS_0.pdf

    It says tongue and groove flooring not decking, but I suppose if they poison flooring that is for indoors, they will even more liberally for outdoors.

    Swell, I can feel inhaling large amounts of Permethrin in my sleep
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

  23. #23
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    Well it seems that Boral recently sold their timber business to Pentarch. So with new owners who knows what will happen. Guess it pays to double check before buying your next batch!

  24. #24
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    Can you check if the timber is stamped, tagged or the treatment level otherwise identified? I doubt very much that they can sell treated timber without disclosing where it was treated, chemical used and level of treatment.
    https://www.madeoftasmania.com.au/tr...reated-timber/
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Can you check if the timber is stamped, tagged or the treatment level otherwise identified?
    Our treated pine has a small printed 'ticket' stapled to one end of every board. Untreated, the grading is printed directly onto the board every few metres

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Can you check if the timber is stamped, tagged or the treatment level otherwise identified?
    Good point. Our decking came in a bulk lot all wrapped in plastic with labels etc but unfortunately all the packing has since been discarded. No markings or stamps on individual boards though ?

  27. #27
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    Something is not right
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
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  28. #28
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    To get back to the subject of comparing the two oils...

    Quote Originally Posted by Bushy View Post
    CUTEK = Heavier Naphtha and less of it is better than light distalates.
    Phosphoric esters have components that are hydrophobic (repel water)
    Copper 8-quinolinol repels bugs.
    Aussie clear; light Distillates, Alkyd resin is a drying agent that makes some think it's better.
    No wonder it's cheaper, up to 30% Turps.
    I recently heard back from Preschem, the manufacturer of Aussie Clear regarding the ingredients;

    Distillates are the solvent. The Mineral Turpentine is a mistake. It's no longer an ingredient and needs to be updated. We now use a narrow cut kerosene. Alkyd resin is the resin in the product. This resin is derived from soy protein. If you don't have the resin then what happens is it will look dry and hungry in no time flat once the solvents have evaporated.
    So for the sake of clarity, it seems that the distillates are the solvent. Bushy, since you were comparing the light distillates with the heavy Naphtha petroleum in Cutek am I right in thinking that the heavy naphtha is also a solvent? And why is it necessarily better to have a heavier solvent?

    The Alkyd resin is a soy based resin, but unsure whether it is also a drying agent? Bushy what did you mean when you said that this makes some think it's better?

    The turps has been switched for narrow cut kerosene which is similar to many of the other oils out there.

    Then the IPBC is the fungicide. By comparison Cutek has Copper 8-quinolinol and 4,5-dichloro-2-octyl-3(2H)-isothiazolone which are also fungicides. Unsure of the benefits of one over another.

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