I used the Macsim stainless torx screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/macsim-1...-pack_p2400118
Happy with the quality and finish, and did not break the bank.
They are not a trim head screw if that is the look you are after.
Hey guys, I've done a quick search but couldn't find what i remember reading...
I'm going to be laying 530 lineal meters of 135x19 spotted gum on the weekend, just after recommendations on what type of screw to use.
The deck is in Melbourne and not near the ocean and the subframe is 140x45 treated pine.
Thanks in advance
I used the Macsim stainless torx screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/macsim-1...-pack_p2400118
Happy with the quality and finish, and did not break the bank.
They are not a trim head screw if that is the look you are after.
yeah avoid the square drive head where possible, or throw out the driver bits that come in tub, they're rubbish.
Remember if you don't sin, then Jesus died for nothing
Thanks, shame cos i like the look of square head screws.
I've used the Scrooz ceramic coats decking screws and they are great. Square heads and don't recall when I last broke one and I've used >10,000.
Look like SS, but are much stronger. https://www.scrooz.com.au/screws/dec...hload-ceramic/
Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.
60 or 65mm and 10g for 19mm deck in TP.
I prefer Spacks screws with the small head.
https://screwsandfasteners.com.au/de...EaAjM8EALw_wcB
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I have used tens of thousands of POWERS square drive screws and have no problem with them, cheaper than Bunnings stuff and better quality.
Go to their store and get the package deals that come with smartbits, various packages depending on how many screws you want.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1000-Dec...MAAOSwe9tcboR~
I use TRIM head versions but it's up to you, wider boards might go with 10G.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2000-Decking-Screws-Stainless-Steel-304-9G-Gauge-53mm-Trim-Head-Timber-SMART-BIT-/322308688680?hash=item4b0b184b28
If you want to buy screws and smartbit separately, don't buy the Macsim countersink took, the rubber ring leaves marks on the boards for some reason, the smartbit brand does not.
Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir
Ah that's the brand i remember reading you had suggested!!
Ordered 3x of these this afternoon https://www.scrooz.com.au/mega-decki...50mm-304-st-st
Last edited by Optimus; 21st Apr 2020 at 08:05 PM. Reason: Wrong link
Yep, I used the powers ones after Metrixs recommendation. Perfect.
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Maybe that was my issue, cheap bunnings screws, with a cheap driver bit
Remember if you don't sin, then Jesus died for nothing
The Zenith brand Bunnings stock are the most crappiest square drives I have ever used,
Had a box lying around from somewhere and decided to use them just for a job that was going to get covered over, just to get rid of them.
Snapped 1 in every 10 and stripped the square drive off 2 in every ten, they were only going through pine into pine.
I don't know if they were made from paper but were completely useless, after about 50 screws I stopped using them and chucked the rest of the box out as they were just a waste of time.
The Macsim brand Bunnings sell are not too bad, still I would go for the Powers or another brand over any Bunnings supplied brand.
The Zenith are WAY too expensive, especially considering the poor quality, see below you can get the same amount of Powers with smartbit and deck hand for the less than the inferior Zenith.
I can imagine how frustrating it would be to try and put two or three thousand in a deck.
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Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir
Scrooz stuff is good quality, that bundle is good value.
Let us know how you go with them, especially the countersink bit, looks to be a EZ-BIT they are using.
Attachment 125792
Attachment 125794
Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir
Legend , will post up pics when done..
Thanks again everyone...
Is it worthwhile using the deck hand tool?
Or is there a better alternative?
I have used the deckhand once just to give it a go, and it's actually quite good, It's much quicker using the starter board method and a chalk line, I have outlined this method one here a few times.
Check here for a description on how it works, use this method if you want straight boards and no surprises when you get to the other end.
https://www.renovateforum.com/f196/y...k-deck-111835/
Use either white / purple or blue chalk, as you will be flicking it a few times, it's harder to find the white or purple chalk so blue is ok as it cleans off easily.
This is not a bad kit, Empire stuff is good quality, usually made in USA.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/empire-3...chalk_p0167623
The deckhand is good if you also have a floor cramp, I have a special deck cramp which hooks onto the joist and squashed the boards tight, but still not a quick as the chalk line method, and if your joists are out the deckhand will follow the joist.
The issue with the deckhand is because it's made from plastic the holes get chewed out after a few hundred screws, if the critical hole part was made from metal it would be a good piece of kit.
Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir
Perfect mate, thankyou.
in case you have some not-so-straight boards, these could help you with you get the gaps even:
https://www.irwin.com.au/tools/clamps/deck-tool-kit
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Any recommendations on lighting... I'm after step lights and some up lights?
Hi all - what type/length of screws would you recommend for putting 19mm spotted gum into hardwood joists?
+1 to using these. I used them for 19mm grey gum deck boards and they did great. A few snapped because I used a 1/2" 500nm impact wrench instead of a impact driver and I didn't predrill the hole enough. However none have snapped with the weathering of the boards, 4 years later. I can still remove them using the original bit. Can vouch for the maxims.