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  1. #1
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    Default Decking Oil

    Greetings,

    Wondering if someone can please help me choose a good quality decking oil. I've done some searching and looks like Cutek is recommended and so is Feast and Watson. F&W seem to fit my budget so hoping someone can tell me F&W Merbau suit my deck?

    deck photos attached.
    Also any recommendations on the applicator type to use please? I'll be following the sticky how-to oil a deck thread.

    Thank you so much.

    20210403_095015.jpg20210403_095029.jpg20210403_095023.jpg

  2. #2
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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  3. #3
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    thanks Marc. I ended up getting the Aquadeck Merbau. Will post back the results.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    What has been your experience with it Marc?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hpkv View Post
    thanks Marc. I ended up getting the Aquadeck Merbau. Will post back the results.
    Remember Aquadeck is water based and is a film forming coating. Do not let it age to the point that it wears through or starts to lift otherwise it will be time to sand the deck.

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    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    What has been your experience with it Marc?
    Oiled a small merbau new deck I made for the neighbour, and I liked how it seeps in the timber. Not sure how it will do on old coating but will find out soon enough. With the price F&W is, at $200 for 10L for deckdoc, there isn't much of a difference. The Lanolin in the DD never polymerises so you use less. You could give it a light lick every 6 month with just a few litres. They must have a good deal with the lanoline supplier, not cheap. I would have chosen paraffin oil. Lanolin is so much nicer and smells like an old shearing shed.

    Funny how the reviews are either 5 stars or one, no middle ground.
    Also some ridicule aimed at the owners that are not a corporation but just a guy and his wife. Apparently reason enough to belittle them ...
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  7. #7
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    Thanks everyone. Did a scrub today with napisan and no surprise them black spots and grey drops of something remained post wash - see photos. Looks like I'd need some type of oxalic acid based prep to remove it, should I spot clean it with something like Cabot's deck clean or it be sanded?

    @droog, are you saying Aquadeck stuff only lasts few months and I will need to coat again soon? if so, do you recommend any other brand please?


    20210405_071230.jpg 20210405_071325.jpg20210405_071305.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by hpkv View Post
    @droog, are you saying Aquadeck stuff only lasts few months and I will need to coat again soon? if so, do you recommend any other brand please?
    Any deck finish needs to be maintained, the difference is that oil based coatings can be mostly removed with a nappy san wash and touch ups are relatively easy.
    Water based on the other hand is film forming, as there is tint in the film once some of it is missing any touch up will be clearly visible after a recoat. The only option is to strip the coating over all the entire deck to have a even base on which to start.

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    Ok thanks. Can you please recommend an affordable oil based brand?

    Also any tips please on how the black spots can be removed? Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by hpkv View Post
    Ok thanks. Can you please recommend an affordable oil based brand?

    Also any tips please on how the black spots can be removed? Cheers
    I use DeckDoc but there are many different opinions out there. YMMV
    https://deckdoc.com.au/

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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    Interesting product but the comparison at 1min 20secs is ridiculous...vertical coatings last far longer than what they would on the surface of a deck.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails decdoc.jpg  

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    Thanks, price wise they seem to be about the same. Can you get these at Bunnings? I prefer to walk in rather than waiting for postage.

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    This is one of those; "you get what you pay for" things. After many hours of research I found Cutek Extreme to be worth every cent if you want your deck to look good and last for many decades with minimal care. I recently only washed my verandah with warm water and dish soap and only coated a few boards around the edges after a year. You can't do that with water based. You don't have to radically clean oil base for recoat.

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    BTW, looks like the deck has already been coated, you should find out what coating is on there first.

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    The square black stains look like metal has leeched in to the wood.

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    Thanks Bushy. I thought the same when I saw water staying on top after I washed. We have no idea what it has been coated with but going to spot clean with oxalic acid to remove the black stains and then coat it with a natural oil based stain.

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    You should be able to tell if it is oil or water, water based sits on top where oil penetrates, although by the naked eye it appears to be minimal.
    Good luck.

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    I had a go at spot cleaning by scrubbing with deck clean. Some black spots have been stripped off after sanding and the grey/whitish spots are gone after just sanding - see before and after photos.

    Now the question is how to find what type of stain this thing already has? If you look at the image attached, looks like merbau stain of some kind has been applied going by the colour difference at the edge. In that case, if I decide to do an oil based stain should I should natural or merbau?

    Also is it recommended I do strip, clean, sand and apply stain? or just stain over on top provided I coat it with a merbau (matching red) oil based stain?




    Before and After Sanding:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails capture.jpg   whatsapp-image-2021-04-11-12.51.20-pm.jpg  

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    From the pictures attached I would be fairly confident that the current finish is a film forming water based one.

    Against the brickwork there is a clean break between coated and uncoated timber. Where you have sanded at the stains you can see a clear separation where you have sanded through the coating exposing the timber underneath.
    An oil based finish will not work where the existing coating is still intact, a water based one can be used but you will always be able to se the patches that have gone back to bare timber.

    If you want a good even finish over the entire deck it looks like it is sanding time.

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    thanks droog. Maybe in a years time I will consider getting a professional to sand it off and get it oil based stained. But for now, leaving how it looks aside, just to protect the timber can I just coat it with a water based one without having to any prep work? When you say patches, are you referring to the edges where the bare timber is visbile or the places where I've sanded to expose the bare timber? Right now the goal purely is to protect the timber and of course make it somewhat eye pleasing.

  21. #21
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    Yes you can re-coat over the top with water based.
    Anywhere there is a difference in colour, ie around the edges and where the coating has been sanded off, will still show through afterwards. How much it stands out is hard to determine.

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    How long does the Cutek extreme hold it’s colour before it silvers. I have a blackbutt deck that has been coated with something. I am going to clean, give it a light sand and oil it. It gets hammered by sun in Summer so thinking of Cutek but done want to be doing it every 6 months.

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    Try to establish if it is water based or oil if water based it will be cracking and/or flaking just like paint 'cause it is a paint. oil, however, will just stop beading rain/water.
    If the latter, your in luck, a good cleaning (which has been outlined here often) is all you need before using Cutek.
    On the other hand if acrylic/paint/pretendy oil....sand the whole lot back!
    "How long does the Cutek extreme hold it’s colour before it silvers" bloody long time mate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushy View Post
    Try to establish if it is water based or oil if water based it will be cracking and/or flaking just like paint 'cause it is a paint. oil, however, will just stop beading rain/water.
    "How long does the Cutek extreme hold it’s colour before it silvers" bloody long time mate.
    I have asked the builders what they used and they cant remember. I am pretty sure it was oil based as I was here when they were doing it. Whatever it was it essentially faded within 6 months. I think it will need a light sand as its been battered by the sun. I am also going to replace a couple of warped boards. Would you recommend a belt or orbital sander for the deck. Happy to buy one as I assume I will be using it every 12 months or so.

    I have sample pack from Cutek. I might try it and some of the colours on a spare piece of board tomorrow.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JS001 View Post
    I have asked the builders what they used and they cant remember. I am pretty sure it was oil based as I was here when they were doing it. Whatever it was it essentially faded within 6 months. I think it will need a light sand as its been battered by the sun. I am also going to replace a couple of warped boards. Would you recommend a belt or orbital sander for the deck. Happy to buy one as I assume I will be using it every 12 months or so.

    I have sample pack from Cutek. I might try it and some of the colours on a spare piece of board tomorrow.
    You really need to know what was applied previously because oil or water based coating are not compatible.

    If you rub it with metho and it comes off fairly easily then it's most likely water based.
    As a double check, put some napisan with hot water on it somewhere, leave it for 15 minutes, if it bubbles up and turns black then it's oil based.

    If it's oil based then use the napisan trick over the entire deck, when it changes colour blast it with a pressure washer, this will remove almost all of the oil, then a light sand and it's ready to coat.
    Make sure to wash down any surfaces around the deck afterwards as it will have dissolved decking oil over fences etc, and it will stain tyhem if left to dry.

    If it's water based the only way to remove it is sand it all off, which is a bugger of a job.

    If you don't want to sand it off, then use one of the regular deck cleaner products, or you can mix your own using oxalic acid as a base, then coat it.
    Of course this won't look as good as sanding or removing the existing coating, but it's up to you how much work you want to put into it.
    Mieux vaut prévenir que guérir

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    Quote Originally Posted by METRIX View Post
    You really need to know what was applied previously because oil or water based coating are not compatible.

    If you rub it with metho and it comes off fairly easily then it's most likely water based.
    As a double check, put some napisan with hot water on it somewhere, leave it for 15 minutes, if it bubbles up and turns black then it's oil based.
    Thanks mate. Am pretty sure its oil but will try the Napisan test you suggest. Am going to give it a light sand anyway. Would you recommend a belt or orbital sander. I have 2 decks one off the house and one by the pool both less than 30 m2.

  27. #27
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    Orbital is the go, a belt sander can be too easy to damage the boards.
    Get yourself some good quality 80 grit, to start with then a quick going over with 120 grit.

    If you can find 3M Cubitron paper it will outlast any other brand 10:1
    If its oil based you need to strip it back before sanding as it will just clog the paper up very quickly.

    Looking at the picture along side the brick, I suspect it's water based on there.
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