Hire the best Decking Expert

Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

Results 1 to 42 of 42
  1. #1
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    I am designing a ground level deck to go over the top of our existing concrete patio slab. The slab is too small and not regularly used for this reason so we want to improve the look and function with a larger deck that extends beyond the slab into our yard. Attached are a couples of photos of the space.

    For the part that’s over the slab we only have limited clearance (approximately 100mm minimum from the slab to the finished level that the top of the deck needs to be). I am planning to use KlevaKlip Adjustable Joist Hangers for the extent on the slab to avoid the need for bearers over this part: KlevaKlip Systems Pty Ltd - Merbau - Products

    The adjustable joist hangers bolt to the slab with dynabolts and are designed to be used with 70x45mm MGP10 joists (or 90x45mm joists where clearance permits) so this is perfect for our situation given the limited clearance.

    I have been using the span tables here:http://www.chhwoodproducts.com.au/us...e%20Set(4).pdf
    I understand I can go down to 70 x 45mm (MGP10 or F7) because the deck is less than 1m off the ground?

    For the rest of the area there is greater clearance to the natural ground level (at least another 60-70mm at the highest point so approximately 160mm+ in total to the finished level of the deck – the natural ground falls away from the house so clearance increases at the outside perimeter of the deck). For this part of the deck beyond the slab I plan to use 2/120x45mm F7 or MGP10 for bearers and 120x45mm joists. Due to the limited clearance I plan to support the bearers directly by post support stirrups (with no posts).

    Attached is a sketchup file showing the preliminary design for the framework (all the decking boards will run in one orientation so I have left these out). The space is a bit tricky so there are some non-uniform angles needed for the bearers in parts. I would appreciate advice on how best to hang the joists at these angles. The cylinders shown are just indicating where the stirrups might go in the ground.

    I would appreciate any comments including opportunities for efficiencies or improvements. Feel free to make any edits to the file and repost as well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20131026_152432.jpg   20131026_152059.jpg  
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default

    I have extracted some images from the sketchup file with dimensions.downstairs-deck-v4.pngdownstairs-deck-perspective-v4.png

  3. #3
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default

    I guess people who already know how to build decks that comply don't browse this forum? I noticed a lot of other unanswered posts as well.

  4. #4
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Psych101 View Post
    I guess people who already know how to build decks that comply don't browse this forum? I noticed a lot of other unanswered posts as well.
    i've been reading this forum for a while now and have gleaned alot of useful information. some posts seem to get a heap of attention and others nothing or next to nothing - not sure why this is

    maybe the best you can hope for is the obligatory 'buy Alan Staines book' reply. yes it's good advice (and has been very helpful as well), but this is a forum where you'd think like minded people can ask further questions/share their own unique designs etc.
    Last edited by gyddyup; 1st Nov 2013 at 11:12 AM. Reason: typo.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    108

    Default

    I've followed this thread with interest - i'm no expert although it seems you've improved your plan a lot off back of some expert input

    i'd say go for it based on your latest plan - looks much improved and a go-er

  6. #6
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, north
    Posts
    16,353

    Default

    The lack of response might be because of the trickiness of the design. You are playing with non-standard angles. From what I see you are running your joists into a doubled bearer. Can you reconsider this aspect. Would sleepers or other H4 treated timber bedded into the ground under your joists help. That way the critical angle of the joist is no longer depending on a support member. I like the joist supports you are using on the concrete, though it may be cheaper to pack it out by other means. Where you are building over the grassed area, it might be worthwhile to weed-mat and road-base the area to keep weeds, grass and moisture under control.

  7. #7
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gyddyup View Post
    i've been reading this forum for a while now and have gleaned alot of useful information. some posts seem to get a heap of attention and others nothing or next to nothing - not sure why this is

    maybe the best you can hope for is the obligatory 'buy Alan Staines book' reply. yes it's good advice (and has been very helpful as well), but this is a forum where you'd think like minded people can ask further questions/share their own unique designs etc.
    I have Alan Staines's book (5th edition). Yes it is useful but only really covers stock standard designs and not my less regular circumstances.

    Quote Originally Posted by robjer View Post
    I've followed this thread with interest - i'm no expert although it seems you've improved your plan a lot off back of some expert input

    i'd say go for it based on your latest plan - looks much improved and a go-er
    I haven't had any expert input at all which is my reason for posting here. I want to make sure this is going to work and comply with Australian standards and building code. There are so many different versions of span tables out there and I am not sure what is up to date and what is not.

    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    The lack of response might be because of the trickiness of the design. You are playing with non-standard angles. From what I see you are running your joists into a doubled bearer. Can you reconsider this aspect. Would sleepers or other H4 treated timber bedded into the ground under your joists help. That way the critical angle of the joist is no longer depending on a support member. I like the joist supports you are using on the concrete, though it may be cheaper to pack it out by other means. Where you are building over the grassed area, it might be worthwhile to weed-mat and road-base the area to keep weeds, grass and moisture under control.
    That is an interesting idea. Would using sleepers in the ground meet the relevant standards though and what would be the lifetime on this? Would you use triple grips or something to attach the joists? I'm not sure whether this approach would be any less work though. Are there joist hangers that can do non-standard angles other than 45 degrees?

  8. #8
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default

    I have made some revisions to the design since my original post as attached. For part of the angled section of the deck I have changed the orientation of the joists to be perpendicular to the bearers. This will reduce the number of non-standard angles joining the joists and bearers and allows an opportunity to include a change in direction in the decking for interest and to define an entry/exit to the yard from the deck.

    I have a few questions about the current design:

    1. The finished level of the deck will be about the same level as the internal house floor level. Are there any problems with this? (I don't really have a choice due to the limited clearance to the concrete slab). I note the Allan Staines book says to make it a minimum 12mm lower but I don't think I can achieve this.
    2. I plan to do a picture frame board around the perimeter of the deck and between the sections of decking having different orientations. How is the picture frame border normally done in terms of the framework beneath it?
    3. I also want to install some deck lights along the far top edge of the deck away from the house. I suppose these would need to be setback from the outer edge because the bearers will be in the way. Are there any design considerations in allowing for deck lights?
    4. I have used the span tables to work out bearer and joist spans and roughly how many in ground anchor supports are needed. Have I done this right based on the dimensions in the sketchup file?
    5. I have one section where a ledger would be bolted to a rendered blockwork wall (at the corner of the external walls of the house). I have been reading mixed advice about ledger boards and whether they are okay or should be avoided. The alternative would another bearer and two post supports for a tiny section of the deck up to this wall.
    6. Is H3 treated pine okay to use this close to the ground?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails downstairs-deck-v5.png  
    Attached Files Attached Files

  9. #9
    3K Club Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Daylesford Australia
    Posts
    3,411

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Psych101 View Post
    I have made some revisions to the design since my original post as attached. For part of the angled section of the deck I have changed the orientation of the joists to be perpendicular to the bearers. This will reduce the number of non-standard angles joining the joists and bearers and allows an opportunity to include a change in direction in the decking for interest and to define an entry/exit to the yard from the deck.

    I have a few questions about the current design:

    1. The finished level of the deck will be about the same level as the internal house floor level. Are there any problems with this? (I don't really have a choice due to the limited clearance to the concrete slab). I note the Allan Staines book says to make it a minimum 12mm lower but I don't think I can achieve this.
    2. I plan to do a picture frame board around the perimeter of the deck and between the sections of decking having different orientations. How is the picture frame border normally done in terms of the framework beneath it?
    3. I also want to install some deck lights along the far top edge of the deck away from the house. I suppose these would need to be setback from the outer edge because the bearers will be in the way. Are there any design considerations in allowing for deck lights?
    4. I have used the span tables to work out bearer and joist spans and roughly how many in ground anchor supports are needed. Have I done this right based on the dimensions in the sketchup file?
    5. I have one section where a ledger would be bolted to a rendered blockwork wall (at the corner of the external walls of the house). I have been reading mixed advice about ledger boards and whether they are okay or should be avoided. The alternative would another bearer and two post supports for a tiny section of the deck up to this wall.
    6. Is H3 treated pine okay to use this close to the ground?
    Honestly, speaking only from my point of view, it is a design that requires a fair bit of attention before commenting on it so I put it aside until I have idle time to look at it. Also your posts are very wordy with lots of questions and that's fine but again, not until I have spare time. Can't speak for others tho.

    Anyway. Looking at the first design because I've looked at that one and can "reasonably" tell from all your measurements that it is generally pretty good as far as spans/spacings go. Probably the only change to that I'd make would be to put another post support in for that right side, middle bearer run. It's a bit overspan as far as I can see.

    Floor height being the same as house can mean wind blown water coming in but you have sliding doors/a channel for the door to slide in and this will help with that.

    You can get angled joist hangers.

    Let someone else comment on the border because I've not done much of that and I'd be making it up. Something like doubled up timber with 20mm spacer where it's a joist such as that right wall. Perhaps tripled up timber where you bearers or you could do bearers with spacers but then you'd have to rethink your footings so get your double bearers up and nail on an extra piece of 70x45. Doesn't have to be 120x45 as it's not part of the structural deck. Oh well, I guess I did comment on the border.

    I prefer the first plan. All the joist are in the same line so fixing of screws will be inline too. That's just one good thing. If you start using borders and change the direction of decking refer to above (where I wasn't going to comment) and you'll need to do a lot more of this. Too much stuffing about. Keep it simple, I reckon.

    There's lots of posts on deck ledgers if you have a bit of a look you'll find some answers. I'm no expert on it so I won't comment (this time I won't)

    H4 would be best for durability. It is for inground although I heard it said for close to ground use, it's also preferable. Your choice on that one.

    Don't know anything much about deck lights.

    That's about it really. Hope it helps a bit.

  10. #10
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, north
    Posts
    16,353

    Default

    Using sleepers in-ground (on edge) as bearers is fine but select a quality sleeper unlikely to twist and warp and use while still wet. I have done this before by setting them onto concrete pads. It is a compromise but when building a deck so close to the ground, a means needs to be devised. The joists are skewed nailed to this sleeper. H4 timber is best for the close proximity joists but may be difficult to get in certain areas. I can get mine out of Sydney but it isn't structural grade though it is dried. Even though it is a more rubbish timber compared to more local H3, I prefer it for very close to ground use and I discard anything that is twisted or badly knotted. When using H4 timber, check if it is wet or dry timber. H4 is generally a wet timber and will shrink a certain percent over time. A few mm should be allowed for this. Also when you get your timber keep it strapped, dry and supported level above the ground until you are ready to use it. Use it quickly and don't let it sit around (even a day in the sun can bend a straight length). You will get a much better job this way, with straighter and better aligned timbers. Really tired of comments that pine decking is all over the place. Built properly you will end up with a straight and good looking deck. I also paint the top of the joists for less water penetration, don't like the rubber type strips as these hold condensation. I cover the bearers with alcor. These are my idiosyncrasies!

  11. #11
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Thanks for the comments and advice.

    In relation to the change in orientation of the decking I agree with comments this may be over complicating things. Does anyone know where I can get skew joist hangers that are adjustable for angles other than 45 degrees?

    I am also thinking of using a kreg deck jig to fasten decking: Deck Jig

    Does anyone have any experience with this and what are your thoughts? I am concerned with the pocket holes being angled down and water pooling in them. I also don't know how you would fasten the edge of a decking board where it is abutting the house wall or at the far edge of the deck where there is an overhang.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    gold coast
    Posts
    346

    Default

    Here is my multi level multi angled deck I did nearly two years ago. Still as good as the day it went down and I wouldn't have change anything
    http://www.renovateforum.com/f196/ne...earers-101534/

  13. #13
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default

    I have made some changes to the design and progressed work on the deck in the attached photos.

    I have read some posts in this forum now and note that some people lay down black plastic (looks like) and gravel on top over the site area. Can some explain whether this is necessary for me and what I need to do / products to use? If I need to do this I want to it soon while I still have good access.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20140108_181402.jpg   downstairs-deck-v9-2.png   20140108_175522.jpg   20140108_175535.jpg   20140108_181338.jpg  

    downstairs-deck-v9.png  

  14. #14
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by Psych101 View Post
    I have read some posts in this forum now and note that some people lay down black plastic (looks like) and gravel on top over the site area. Can some explain whether this is necessary for me and what I need to do / products to use? If I need to do this I want to it soon while I still have good access.
    Does anyone have any comments on this? I would appreciate any advice.

  15. #15
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, north
    Posts
    16,353

    Default

    Personally I would place weedmat and roadbase, or do anything else to discourage weed growth if any sunlight can get underneath to the soil.

  16. #16
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    Personally I would place weedmat and roadbase, or do anything else to discourage weed growth if any sunlight can get underneath to the soil.
    Thanks for the reply. Can weeds still grow with the deck over the top? How thick does the gravel layer need to be?

  17. #17
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, north
    Posts
    16,353

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Psych101 View Post
    Thanks for the reply. Can weeds still grow with the deck over the top? How thick does the gravel layer need to be?
    Your deck should have open gaps and this means some sunlight and moisture. I can't assume your situation, but I have seen some weed/grass growth happen. Also if your deck is close to the ground then it can only benefit by anything that keeps the moisture down. Understand that builders plastic/concrete plastic will break down after a while if not covered.

  18. #18
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    Your deck should have open gaps and this means some sunlight and moisture. I can't assume your situation, but I have seen some weed/grass growth happen. Also if your deck is close to the ground then it can only benefit by anything that keeps the moisture down. Understand that builders plastic/concrete plastic will break down after a while if not covered.
    Thanks for the tips. Will look into this.

    I suppose bunnings would have weed matting. Any tips on what to get?

    And how much road base should I put on top?

  19. #19
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, north
    Posts
    16,353

    Default

    I think any weed mat is fine, and suggest a min 10mm cover of roadbase, crusher dust etc. , whatever is cheap (not sand)!

  20. #20
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    I have added the weed mat and drainage gravel now.

    Just wondering now whether I need another bearer between the outside and middle bearers. The span is about 2.050m and the allan staines book I have says 50 x 100 f17 joists can span up to 2.4m single span. Is my 2m span okay or will it be too bouncy? I am using F17 spotted gum 100 x 50 joists between bearers. uploadfromtaptalk1390724637428.jpguploadfromtaptalk1390724661203.jpg

  21. #21
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Psych101 View Post
    I have added the weed mat and drainage gravel now. Just wondering now whether I need another bearer between the outside and middle bearers. The span is about 2.050m and the allan staines book I have says 50 x 100 f17 joists can span up to 2.4m single span. Is my 2m span okay or will it be too bouncy? I am using F17 spotted gum 100 x 50 joists between bearers. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1390724637428.jpg 
Views:	191 
Size:	171.0 KB 
ID:	100037Click image for larger version. 

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1390724661203.jpg 
Views:	182 
Size:	97.9 KB 
ID:	100039
    Can someone who knows please comment on whether 2m single span for 100x50mm F17 joists is okay?

  22. #22
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, north
    Posts
    16,353

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Psych101 View Post
    Can someone who knows please comment on whether 2m single span for 100x50mm F17 joists is okay?
    I can advise you that a 90x45 F17 KDH will not do it. 1700 is max for single span. My tables for older 100x50 aren't handy at the moment.

  23. #23
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, north
    Posts
    16,353

    Default

    100x50 F17 unseasoned HW for a normal single span joist max's out at about 2100mm. I am assuming 450mm spacings.

  24. #24
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    100x50 F17 unseasoned HW for a normal single span joist max's out at about 2100mm. I am assuming 450mm spacings.
    Yes I will have them at 450 spacings. My allan staines book must be a bit out of date as it states 2400. Does being close to the maximum span have any undesired effects.

  25. #25
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by Psych101 View Post
    Yes I will have them at 450 spacings. My allan staines book must be a bit out of date as it states 2400. Does being close to the maximum span have any undesired effects.
    Could I just reduce the spacing in this part of the deck to firm it up a bit more? I will be using deck max biscuits so I don't have to worry about joists and fixings being in line with the rest of joists.

  26. #26
    3K Club Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Daylesford Australia
    Posts
    3,411

    Default

    My span tables for unseasoned hardwood F17 with zero roof load, spaced at 450mm, is max span of 1900. These are the latest span tables. The 2400 max span is for 300 spacing. You could use that spacing but if you can go up to 125x50 the max span is 2500.

    For seasoned hardwood using the same details as above, 90x45 300mm spacing is max 2100 and 450mm spacing is 1800. 120x45 at 450mm spacing is max 2400

  27. #27
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    My span tables for unseasoned hardwood F17 with zero roof load, spaced at 450mm, is max span of 1900. These are the latest span tables. The 2400 max span is for 300 spacing. You could use that spacing but if you can go up to 125x50 the max span is 2500.

    For seasoned hardwood using the same details as above, 90x45 300mm spacing is max 2100 and 450mm spacing is 1800. 120x45 at 450mm spacing is max 2400
    Thanks for that. I will need to reduce the spacing in that case. I think this is easier than putting in another bearer at this point.

    I can't go to 125 joists due to the design and clearance issues.

  28. #28
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default

    I have now put in the pine joists over the concrete slab section of the deck. I thought I was using H3 treated MGP10 but it turns out I have bought just plain old structural pine.

    Are there any options to adequately treat the timber now it is in place?

    The worse case is I have to remove it but not sure how I will remove the nails/joist from the adjustable joist hangers and framing brackets (they are Pryda timber connector nails 35 x 3.15mm galvanised).

    Pretty shattered I made such a stupid mistake. Any suggestions appreciated.

    Addendum:

    I have a bosch multi-tool (pmf180e) and I have a wood and metal plunge cut blade that I have tested and it cuts through the nails like butter. This means I can at least remove the timber fairly easily but if there is another option to treat it in place this would be preferable.

  29. #29
    3K Club Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Daylesford Australia
    Posts
    3,411

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Psych101 View Post
    I have now put in the pine joists over the concrete slab section of the deck. I thought I was using H3 treated MGP10 but it turns out I have bought just plain old structural pine.

    Are there any options to adequately treat the timber now it is in place?

    The worse case is I have to remove it but not sure how I will remove the nails/joist from the adjustable joist hangers and framing brackets (they are Pryda timber connector nails 35 x 3.15mm galvanised).

    Pretty shattered I made such a stupid mistake. Any suggestions appreciated.

    Addendum:

    I have a bosch multi-tool (pmf180e) and I have a wood and metal plunge cut blade that I have tested and it cuts through the nails like butter. This means I can at least remove the timber fairly easily but if there is another option to treat it in place this would be preferable.
    There are paintable products out there. The problem with some is they need to be reapplied at certain time intervals which is impossible to do once it's all covered up and you don't have access to underneath. Perhaps you will find a product that doesn't need reapplication. Not sure. Also you won't get it down into joints and cut ends as it's already assembled. Here's a link to a web page that may be of use.

    Osmose Preservation Technology at work: Timber preservatives for treated timber, treated wood, treated pine, Protim Timber Care

    Removing and replacing is ultimately the best option.

  30. #30
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, north
    Posts
    16,353

    Default

    You may need to revisit things here. I thought you were thinking about about F17 but you are now using pine which won't be F17! It is possible to get the connectors away, just not easy for the first few nails, or as you suggest cutting off with a metal cutting blade.

  31. #31
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    You may need to revisit things here. I thought you originally asked about F17 but you are now using pine which won't be F17! It is possible to get the connectors away, just not easy for the first few nails, or as you suggest cutting off with a metal cutting blade.
    There are pine joists for the extent over my existing concrete slab where I have used kleva klip adjustable joist hangers designed to be used with 70 x 45 material (see start of thread). F17 has been used for the bearers and will be used for all other joists.

  32. #32
    3K Club Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Daylesford Australia
    Posts
    3,411

    Default

    If you use an old chisel or screwdriver and hammer you can get it behind the head of the connector nail so that it sits proud of the joist hanger then use pincers/fencing pliers or whatever you call them, to remove. You should be able to do this without damaging the joist hangers.

  33. #33
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    If you use an old chisel or screwdriver and hammer you can get it behind the head of the connector nail so that it sits proud of the joist hanger then use pincers/fencing pliers or whatever you call them, to remove. You should be able to do this without damaging the joist hangers.
    Yeah thanks. That's exactly how I did it (screw driver). Was surprisingly easy and only took about 45 minutes to remove all the nails (I had started cutting the nail heads off and punching them in but this was way too slow going). All gone now and ready to do the job right.

  34. #34
    3K Club Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Daylesford Australia
    Posts
    3,411

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Psych101 View Post
    Yeah thanks. That's exactly how I did it (screw driver). Was surprisingly easy and only took about 45 minutes to remove all the nails (I had started cutting the nail heads off and punching them in but this was way too slow going). All gone now and ready to do the job right.
    Good one. Worth the effort.

  35. #35
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Some progress pics. All pine is now H3. uploadfromtaptalk1396138072822.jpguploadfromtaptalk1396138106332.jpg

  36. #36
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Started laying the decking uploadfromtaptalk1398512729847.jpguploadfromtaptalk1398512669257.jpg

  37. #37
    Community Moderator phild01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, north
    Posts
    16,353

    Default

    Looking good, take care the gaps aren't too tight. Suggest 4mm min especially in exposed areas.

  38. #38
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Re: Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by phild01 View Post
    Looking good, take care the gaps aren't too tight. Suggest 4mm min especially in exposed areas.
    Thanks.

    4mm is the gap I am using. It is a bit tighter (3.5mm) in that shot of the corner and a bit further apart at the other end (5mm) as the first house wall is not parallel to the next little wall as I get round the corner so I had to adjust a bit.

  39. #39
    Novice
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    33

    Default

    I may have missed this, but what did you end up painting over your slab/ timber to protect it?
    what size boards did you use?

  40. #40
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by mjhnoudis View Post
    I may have missed this, but what did you end up painting over your slab/ timber to protect it?
    what size boards did you use?
    Just exterior paint. It wasnt to protect anything but just to use a dark colour that didnt show up between the gaps in the decking. Decking is 135mm spotted gum from memory.

  41. #41
    Apprentice (new member)
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Criagieburn, VIC
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Hi. Just found this thread. I also have a section of decking to do over an existing slab.
    I like the way you have done yours. Where did you buy the galvanized supports used on the slab? Is it the kleva klip adjustable joist hangers you mentioned ealrlier?
    Did you end up using the kreg jig or something else?

    Great job.
    Cheers

  42. #42
    Novice
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    25

    Default Ground Level Deck Over Concrete Patio Slab - Design Advice Appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by kma_jg View Post
    Hi. Just found this thread. I also have a section of decking to do over an existing slab.
    I like the way you have done yours. Where did you buy the galvanized supports used on the slab? Is it the kleva klip adjustable joist hangers you mentioned ealrlier?
    Did you end up using the kreg jig or something else?

    Great job.
    Cheers
    I did use the kleva klip joist hangers which i bought from masters. The fixing system i used is called deck max (see google) which uses plastic biscuits that fit into slots in the sides of the decking. Very time consuming to cut the slots and lay the decking but it looks great with no visible fixings.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 3rd Jan 2013, 03:50 PM
  2. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 29th May 2012, 01:17 PM
  3. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11th May 2011, 09:24 AM
  4. New Ground Level Low deck
    By andrewbailey1 in forum Decking
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 28th Mar 2009, 02:52 AM
  5. Ground level near concrete slab?
    By tripitaka888 in forum Concreting
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 13th Jan 2008, 01:39 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •