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New deck - Sikkens or Feast Watson

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  1. #1
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    Default New deck - Sikkens or Feast Watson

    Am getting a new deck done which is 35sqm, 80% of it will be covered by the Veranda. Low level deck.
    After reading the sticky post, I wanted to go with something that did not have to sand down if I needed to recoat in a few years time.

    1) Feast Watson Decking Oil - this is the alternate version of the traditional decking oil. Does this come off with napisan clean and works like the traditional if I need to recoat?
    2) Am keen on Sikkens HLSe 1 coat and 2 coats of Cetol Deck - Does this need sanding when it comes to re-coat time in 2-3 years time? Or can I just wash and put on a new layer or 2?
    3) Is the Sikkens HLSE oil based? It says oil-alkyd resin

  2. #2
    Old Chippy 6K
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    Whether you have to sand down to re-coat is more to do with how bad you let the surface get when you decide to re-coat rather than the product you use. If you do it while the coating is still in reasonable condition then a wash down with plane water or water and a little detergent and a re-coat will be fine. If you allow it to start breaking down then sanding will be needed. If it is oil based and you use napisan you will remove oil so only do so if you have passed the ideal re-coat time. Funnily enough all the manufacturers provide instructions and information about this, but unless you are female you won't read them until after you strike a problem . . .
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

  3. #3
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    Decided to go Cutek extreme after further reading sikkens may peel/ crack

  4. #4
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    I used Sikkens once and had a big disappointment. It went black in no time. Not long after I had an email from one of those review websites asking me to give feedback, so I did, stating it was the worst product I had ever used.


    From time to time I receive an email telling me "Marc ... you have helped 100 customers!" then a few month later 200 ... etc. Last one I received said I had "helped" 5,463 ... scary !
    Enjoy present pleasures in such a way as not to injure future ones.
    Seneca

  5. #5
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    Has anyone tried this? I need about 9L for 2 coats on the deck.
    Say if i get a 10L cutek extreme with a colortone. First coat without mixing in the colortone. Only after first coat add the colortone to the half tin.. Giving it more color.

    Thoughts?

  6. #6
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    I just did two new Merbau decks with Intergrain water based "oil" I believe this is a latex base to be exact, deck 1 was 88 squ meters and deck 2 was 58 sq meters, both look great and almost like a varnished interior floor. It is early days (deck 1 was done a few weeks before Xmas ) but so far very happy with the look.

    Preped the deck Saturday by sanding away the timber burrs left around the screw holes, washing with deck clean using a stiff brush and then a final wash with a pressure cleaner, first coat went down Sunday morning about 7am and 3rd coat went down early evening around 5.30pm.

    I purchased the Natural "oil" finish thinking it would be clear but when I lifted the lid I saw it had a brown colour in it, went ahead anyway I dont think it changed the colour of the timber much at all.

    If you use this stuff be careful about applying it to a hot deck that has been in direct sun for a while it can dry while you turn your back to top up the container/tray with a fresh lot of oil, and you may see a mark where you finished and restared.

    I used a lambswool pad for the first deck and one of the Wagner Deck Mate tools for the second, it did make things easier once you get the hang of it, I'll use it again in a year or so when I recoat the deck

  7. #7
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    Deck is almost done. I noticed quite alot of burrs around the screw holes and joints. What sander did u use for the burrs in screw holes? Borrowed a sander from a friend which is rectangle at the bottom. Can i only sand around the holes or do i need to do the whole deck? Lot of work of its the whole deck. But worried if i do just the holes, it may be lighter around that area when oiled

  8. #8
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    I used a random orbital sander, carpenter that built the deck said use an orbital sander the type that takes rectangular sandpaper, I have one of these the but the paper is a PIA to replace so used the random orbital one instead, it is only a budget Ozito brand, takes 125mm round paper with a velcro type thing to hold the paper to the sander, no need to go crazy here and aim for a baby's back side finish just need to remove the bulk of the timber splinters and burrs around the screw holes so nothing is sticking up for the lambswool pad to catch on. The bits that are sanded do come out a bit lighter but after it was oiled it all looked real even, natural sun light will darken timber even through the oiled finish. On the smaller deck the carpenter hosed the deck down to clean it when he finished and he left the hose on the deck, I put the hose away at the end of the day and a mark was left on the deck by the hose where water had dried around it, I assumed this would sand off and had a go but no such luck, it was still visible and all I acheived was lighter coloured timber in the bits I sanded. It's been a month or so since this was oiled and the mark is slowly fading and barely visible now as the lighter areas of the timber darken slightly and it takes on an even patina

    It did rain a bit while the larger deck was being built and I noticed that those areas that were not under cover and had been continually wet for around 10 days had less tannin in them, so prior to oiling I hosed the entire deck down every night for a week or so brushing the water away with a broom to make sure the deck dried evenly, I noticed there was less red colour to the water each time I hosed the deck down.

  9. #9
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    I should mention I washed the deck with Intergrain Deck Clean as part of the cleaning process before oiling, this was recommended by the carpenter, not sure if it was needed on a new deck but did it anyway.

  10. #10
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    Sanding, napisan wash, oxalic acid wash then oil. From all that i read here

  11. #11
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    Looks as if you have sifted through all of the advice,opinions,suggestions etc that have been posted on this & perhaps other forums. I work on various decks professionally. Regardless of the decks age or condition from a day old to 20 years they all get sanded. A new deck is a very fast & simple circular random orbital sander with quality 80 grit paper. Once sanded I blow or vacuum up any dust. My sander is attached to a dust extractor while sanding. After the dust is dealt with I then hose the entire deck down thoroughly with just fresh water. Absolutely no chemicals or used or needed. Once the hosing of the dust is completed I blow dry the deck with a electric {Not petrol} leaf blower. The process will bring up the brightest layer of timber that can be achieved. Napisan is soap-detergent using sodium percarbonate and "deck cleaner" is an acid based product that has a slight brightening effect. The chemicals are designed to simulate trying to reach the level of timber brightness that sanding just does.
    Yes you have to get on your hands&knees and maybe a bead or two of sweat on the forehead. I deal with all of this pain & sweat at the end of the day by camping next to my beer fridge. Amazing results!

    good luck

    jimj www.restore-a-deck.com.au

  12. #12
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    Thanks Jim, i've read through alot and learnt alot from everyone, including all your posts.
    I did 1/4 of the deck, sanding yesterday with 80grit, and was easier than i thought it would be. Only smoothing the merbau out and trying to remove burrs. Doesnt take much off the layer of wood.

  13. #13
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    Absolutely. It really only removes the darkened oxidized layer along with any standing timber burrs, pencil marks etc. If after you sand it and then hose off with water I would sweep or blow off any standing puddles as Merbau is famous for tannin-bleed or stain. If you get any tannin marking once dry it will sand out easily & then vacuum or blow off that dust. Don't hose it again. Even after I use my big 90 KG floor sander I still put on my knee pads & hand sand out the entire deck regardless of size. I start with a 40 grit pad then finish the sanding with 80. I can go from 40 to 80 easily & it gives a nice & smooth finish.
    After sanding when you hose down with water it will instantly change from a light tan timber to a dark red brown that will look stunning. You have now reached the absolute best starting position to achieve the best looking outcome regardless of the product you go with. A little bit of extra effort & sweat will be forgotten once the job is completed and you are now enjoying your new deck

    best of luck

    jimj

  14. #14
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    Napisan washed and came out good. Thinking of oxalic acid wash this evening and let try for weekend oil.


    img_2337.png

  15. #15
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    I took jimj's advise and sanded down the entire deck. I bought my sandpaper from amazon in bulks of 50 mirka and bosch brand. Took me best part of a day to sand down and stain half of my deck which is 50m2 in total. Thought as it was the first stain on brand new timber, best do it properly. Sand everything down with a random orbital and stained it with a brush (also bought from amazon). Wife is saying why it takes so long and surely there's a faster way, but deep down I know it's all worth it!

    unspecified.jpg

  16. #16
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    I just recoated after a year. Cutek extreme. Happy with it so far.

  17. #17
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    well done and I have no doubts that your new decking project will turn out great. The last 3 days have seen me on my hands & knees sanding out decks & coating. Happy customers & full beer fridge !!!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by frozensage View Post
    ...Wife is saying why it takes so long and surely there's a faster way, ...
    Sure there is a faster way. If she helps! Then again, probably not

  19. #19
    1K Club Member DavoSyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frozensage View Post
    I took jimj's advise and sanded down the entire deck. I bought my sandpaper from amazon in bulks of 50 mirka and bosch brand. Took me best part of a day to sand down and stain half of my deck which is 50m2 in total. Thought as it was the first stain on brand new timber, best do it properly. Sand everything down with a random orbital and stained it with a brush (also bought from amazon). Wife is saying why it takes so long and surely there's a faster way, but deep down I know it's all worth it!

    hey mate, looks great -how's the deck going? what coating did you use? what tint? did you use a brush for the whole thing?
    freedom of expression freedom from consequences...

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