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New Deck in Tiny Courtyard

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  1. #1
    Apprentice (new member)
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    Default New Deck in Tiny Courtyard

    Hi all,

    I'm a long time reader, but first time poster.

    I am undertaking a deck (3.6 x 2.7m) in my teeny weeny Apartments courtyard (6 x 2.7m). As so far, the old wobbly job of the sandstone pavers have been removed, and the post holes dug at 1500 x 1400 spaces distances (9 in total), due to the building itself having structural 'issues' (as discovered in the Bathroom Renovation from Hell of 2011) I am reluctant to fix timber to the brick wall, but cantilever the joists (90x45 F7 TP) 300mm from the bearers (90x90 F& TP) to make up the gap.

    managemet.jpg
    Hoping this pic comes out alright, this arvos job includes removing the dirt from site while 'management' in the top left hand corner spends her time kicking the dirt back in the holes!

    It is a very low level deck, approx 70mm from the existing ground level at the east side and 130mm from EGL from the west side. There has been a discovery of existing 'mystery' footing which I am screwing a Post Stirrup into this arvo (I have dug around it and it looks like an old strip footing that has just been left there in the 'too hard basket'). This will set my levels for the rest of the Post Stirrups (which are considerably deeper for the 300 x 600mm footings)

    set-out.jpg
    (anyone know how to rotate the photos? )
    My question is as follows; (knew I'd eventually get there );

    I have seen a few examples of people who bolt their beams directly to the stirrups prior to concreting the stirrups in, I have also seen examples of where people strongly recommend against this because of sinking issues. Which to be honest, would be rather annoying seeing as I am hoping to get this deck square (even though the rest of the apartment to my dismay at cartoonish angles ).

    I would really appreciate your opinion on this! I'd like to get it started and finished in time to use my new Webber BBQ (xmas prezzie) before summer ends!

    Any help would be much appreciated!

    Jac

  2. #2
    Flaccid Member - 1k Club Member
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    Default

    once the cement has gone off it wont sink

  3. #3
    2K Club Member
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    Default

    Do you mean the weight of the bearer causing the stirrups to sink while the concrete is wet?

    The bearers are leveled and temporary supports are used until the concrete sets

  4. #4
    Apprentice (new member)
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    Default

    Stevoh741 - got that bit, just curious about fixing the beams first or last with temporary supports etc.

    goldie1 - in the end I set up the levels bolting the beams in first, then constructing the temp supports using the fixed "discovered" slab as a guide before concreting the posts in.

    Recommendation - this is a two person job. Seriously; doing it on your own- not as much fun as it seems.

    Tomorrow - joists going in! In and around a pub lunch. It will be Sunday after all.

    Thank you for your help! I'll keep updating with progress, hopefully it will all turn out ok!

    PS - any tips on creating a straight edge deck against a wobbly brick wall? Would you rip the leading edge to make the remaining straight?

  5. #5
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    How wobbly is the brick work? You can normally allow for that using the gap between the first decking board and the

    brickwork. The first gap can vary quite a bit and still look ok. Lay your first decking board out and adjust it a bit to see how

    it looks then fix it to a stringline and set the other boards of that. If the bricks are very bad scribe to the bricks and plane it

    to suite. If you are nailing screw down the first board to allow for termite inspections and leave a gap between the end of your

    joists and the brick

  6. #6
    Flaccid Member - 1k Club Member
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    remember also to start your decking with a full board furtherest from the house and lay the decking boards so the last one is against the house. If your lucky the last one will be full and leave a bit of a gap against the house, otherwise you will have to rip it or scribe it.

  7. #7
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    With a small deck like yours and a bit of measuring you should be able to adjust before you start so you end up with a full

    board against the house or allmost a full board with a bit planed off. The gaps can be adjusted eg 10 boards at 1mm gives you

    10mm adjustment. The boards shrink at differant rates so the gap amount isn't super critical.

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