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With photos - Questions on sand & stain recycled & new merbau 90x19 / Cutek Extreme

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  1. #1
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    Default With photos - Questions on sand & stain recycled & new merbau 90x19 / Cutek Extreme

    BACKGROUND
    So I dug out 5 tonne of dirt and installed soak wells and a raised subframe under this deck that previous owners had: laid on the dirt, used nail gun, boards upside down.

    Despite all the well intentioned advice on this forum to avoid deck and lay concrete, after pricing that up I decided to go for deck (yeah I'm ready to install vents in the wall if needed for airflow).

    I started before Christmas and mostly did it during the little fella's naps so its taken about 6 months (as per my usual) and all the recycled boards that I had beautifully sanded back with a belt sander up on a bench have weathered.

    I want the fresh wood look so am going to sand all with 80 grit 150mm random orbit sander as per advice by Jimj on this forum. With the weathered stuff I think I'll try starting with coarser grades.

    QUESTION 1: any advice on grades of sanding discs to use? And any tips on getting into the nooks?

    i wasn't paying attention while staining the underside of some of the new boards and gave the top side one coat.

    QUESTION 2: is a standard dust mask with the charcoal cartridges ok for sanding back these 12 new boards with the Cutek Extreme stain on them, or do I need to sand them back at all?

    QUESTION 3: Cutek states that this stain can go straight on new merbau (they don't mention it needing to weather out the tannins first) can anyon comment on that from experience?

    i think I'll contact Cutek on 2&3 and report back but any tips are appreciated.



    image.jpeg ?image.jpg

  2. #2
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    Well done on getting this built in between the ankle biter sleeps. Personally I would just sand the entire deck with 40 grit to start off with. This will take all of the weathered & stained timber back to a new surface. Then repeat with 80 grit. I could sand this deck in say 3 hours with 40 grit & less than 1 hour with 80 grit. Then just hose off all remaining dust , let dry & do the coating. Don't worry about ant weathering comments. The weathering concept IMO is just someone's fantasy idea written down on some label that someone thought was necessary . Someone read it & thought this sounds good & then all of a sudden it became gospel.

    I have yet to find anything written for HOW a deck weathers when built under a roof. I have seen a lot of decks "weathering" but loyal homeowners that are just a mess. Grease stains from the puppies bone, grease from dad drinking to much beer while not concentrating on the cooking-burning meat.Wine stains, icecream stains etc.


    Wear any dust mask you are comfortable wearing. I would try & rig a vacuum hose to the sander direct. Getting into nooks can be a little challenging like corners. Just get a small cork block & wrap sandpaper around it & use some muscles

    Good luck

    jimj restore-a-deck.com.au

  3. #3
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    Excellent! Just what I needed to hear thanks jimj. So I'm returning back my unopened 60 grit (every penny counts!).

    Yeah I did start on it in Bubs nap today, got two hours and a lot done. Thankfully I went with 40 grit which I'm glad was the way to go! and had a shop vac bodgied up to the sander with some tube and a zip tie, love that setup!. Did start in on some of the new planks also with the 40 grit and both the new and the new with stain went to a blond colour whereas the silvered old stuff went to the nice red I remembered.

    QUESTION: what's up with the new stuff sanding back to a blond colour? Here in this picture the red stuff in the middle around the pole is unsanded new stuff, then at the front is sanded new planks that had one coat of stain, kind of dirty blond in colour. You can see clearly what I mean at the ends of the red stuff where my border sanding got the ends of the unsanded new stuff a bit. Down the back is all old wood that I've sanded the borders and left side.


    I get what you mean about messing the deck before the stain goes down (Edit: Oh! I see! Ha ha all the mess you can see on my boards is the Cutek stain where I had the boards flipped for doing the bottoms and sides). When I called Cutek, like you, they said new merbau didn't need to weather or leach out the tannins as their product 'locked in the tannins' maybe that applies to all oil based stains or water based as well? I did speak to another guy today who hasn't stained his deck and it has leached out tannins onto his limestone pool paving, wonder if his builder said 'have to let it weather before "you" stain it and I'm gone' like tilers say on the way out 'yeah you ought to put sealer on the grout' and it never gets done (at least in our case!).

    also after experimenting with the square drive Bunnings screws and cutting wood plugs, although that was fun from a woodworking point of view I figured I didnt have the time and went with the spax deck screws as per your comments elsewhere here. Funny story the local Perth agent had no idea about them and tried to charge me $800 for something that I ended up getting for under $150 direct from Brisbane (they even had a neat kit on offer with drill bit, drive bit, spacers and fixings) despite the agents best efforts to put me off I am sticking with them, they are a great fixing!

    thanks again!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpeg  
    Last edited by MaxBor; 28th Jun 2017 at 11:28 PM. Reason: Edited for clarity

  4. #4
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    The colour variation may have more to do with natural variation in the timber, a.k.a. cut from a different tree. More than likely over time the variation will fade but an oil with a Merbau tint will hide most of the difference. Deck looks good, I like the double picture frame border.

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    Ok thanks JohnC, yeah I had wondered if they were even the same wood! Thanks for explaining.

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    Merbau is like Alpine Ash, in both cases a mix of similar species so yes almost certainly not the same wood but close enough to get a decent outcome.

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    Great to hear all is working well. I am a huge fan & user of Spax-d screws.

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    Wow didn't know that about a mix of similar species JohnC, had been thinking it must have been from different age trees or different parts of the log. Will see how it goes with the Cutek Extreme Oil, I'm prepared for it to be a bit different colour showing through on the lighter and darker boards as its so distinctly different in the raw still. Point taken about it aging to a closer match. All up it took me about 6 or 7 hours to sand it back 40 & 80 grit with a Bosch 300watt 150mm ROS. Dreamed of a gutsier sander throughout! This is a photo after hosing it off.

    QUESTION
    We are forecast a lot of rain tomorrow. Will all that moisture make the fibres in the grain stand up? I'm wondering if I'll need to give it a quick once over with 80 or 120 grit before applying the oil. Fortunately after tomorrow it should be a dry week here.

    I MIGHT TRY A DARKER TINT TO REDUCE THE VISIBLE DIFFERENCE OF THE LIGHT AND DARK BOARDS
    My first 4 litres of stain is almost all used up coating the undersides and sides so I thought I could do a trial of a few of the darker and lighter planks with the existing tint to see if the colour variation is acceptable. Might do that with off cuts tomorrow. Then decide if it needs a darker tint on the next tin to better hide the colour difference. The 'Autumn' tint I already have is one of a couple recommended for merbau that is not as heavy/opaque so the wood features can still be seen well.

    Thanks again guys it's great for home gamers like me that you are generous with your knowledge.
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    Last edited by MaxBor; 1st Jul 2017 at 02:37 PM. Reason: Edit: 4ltrs not 10!

  9. #9
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    well done!!

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