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Recommendations for deck edging design & screw sizes?

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  1. #1
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    May 2020
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    Default Recommendations for deck edging design & screw sizes?

    Hi Folks,

    First - many thanks for previous advice provided for my planned treated-pine deck. I'm about to start laying the decking boards and have a couple more questions which I haven't been able to resolve by searching previous discussions so I thought it best to start a new thread...

    As I've said previously, my deck will be 90% under cover with some occasional rain 'splash' on the western weather end. It's being built over an existing sloped concrete slab so there shouldn't be any problems with drainage underneath. I'm using some of those KlevaKlip things to get the 90 x 45mm joist levelled properly. The 90 x 22mm boards are running parallel to the house (joists running at 90 degrees to the back wall) and just below the damp course - house wall is concrete and brick.

    1. My first question concerns how I'm going to 'edge' the deck.

    I've seen a design that cuts the board ends off level with the outside face of the deck-end joists and then has a 'face' or 'skirting' board screwed to the side and level with the deck surface, providing a framing effect. The front side of the deck (where only the ends of the joists are available for fixing to) is treated similarly but I think the face/framing board might be fastened to an extra piece of joist material fastened across the main joist ends. This extra 'joist' appears to be all about providing extra strength to the vulnerable unsupported board edge across front face of the deck.

    The other design I've seen has the board-ends overlapping by 20mm or so the sides of the joists at each end of the deck with a 'face' or 'skirting' board fastened underneath. Similar treatment at the front edge of the deck.

    Are there structural advantages of one approach over the other? The design using the 'face' board as a frame - level with the deck surface - looks neat but seems a little more likely to be prone to water damage or water collection. Yes/no? What do people recommend? And is the extra joist material across the front edge of the deck a good idea?

    2. My second question concerns the screws I've bought.

    I went with the Scrooz Razr HiLoad ceramic-coated 10 gauge recommended in previous discussions. However I've realised that I've bought the 50mm length when I see at least one recommendation that 65mm be used when screwing into treated pine joists! Should I try to return the (unopened) 50mm screws and ask for 65mm replacements or will the 50mm be OK?

    3. My third question concerns screw placement.

    Is 'straight' in-line alignment across the board OK or should a stagger each pair of screws by maybe 10mm or so? There seem to be concerns about joists splitting when screws are inserted in-line, although with pre-drilling I can't really imagine this would be a problem. And staggering sounds like a bit more work. What's the general recommendation please?

    Thanks, Sam.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Queensland
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    267

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Savvas View Post
    Hi Folks,

    First - many thanks for previous advice provided for my planned treated-pine deck. I'm about to start laying the decking boards and have a couple more questions which I haven't been able to resolve by searching previous discussions so I thought it best to start a new thread...

    As I've said previously, my deck will be 90% under cover with some occasional rain 'splash' on the western weather end. It's being built over an existing sloped concrete slab so there shouldn't be any problems with drainage underneath. I'm using some of those KlevaKlip things to get the 90 x 45mm joist levelled properly. The 90 x 22mm boards are running parallel to the house (joists running at 90 degrees to the back wall) and just below the damp course - house wall is concrete and brick.

    1. My first question concerns how I'm going to 'edge' the deck.

    I've seen a design that cuts the board ends off level with the outside face of the deck-end joists and then has a 'face' or 'skirting' board screwed to the side and level with the deck surface, providing a framing effect. The front side of the deck (where only the ends of the joists are available for fixing to) is treated similarly but I think the face/framing board might be fastened to an extra piece of joist material fastened across the main joist ends. This extra 'joist' appears to be all about providing extra strength to the vulnerable unsupported board edge across front face of the deck.

    The other design I've seen has the board-ends overlapping by 20mm or so the sides of the joists at each end of the deck with a 'face' or 'skirting' board fastened underneath. Similar treatment at the front edge of the deck."

    I like overhang as a nice and protective finish, more than 20mm though, as fascia, or as i used the same deck boards are already 22. You should also cut a "drip edge" 5mm in. Mine are structurally very sound....but hardwood.

    "Are there structural advantages of one approach over the other? The design using the 'face' board as a frame - level with the deck surface - looks neat but seems a little more likely to be prone to water damage or water collection. Yes/no? What do people recommend? And is the extra joist material across the front edge of the deck a good idea?

    2. My second question concerns the screws I've bought.

    I went with the Scrooz Razr HiLoad ceramic-coated 10 gauge recommended in previous discussions. However I've realised that I've bought the 50mm length when I see at least one recommendation that 65mm be used when screwing into treated pine joists! Should I try to return the (unopened) 50mm screws and ask for 65mm replacements or will the 50mm be OK?"

    They recommend 60-65 for pine.

    "3. My third question concerns screw placement.

    Is 'straight' in-line alignment across the board OK or should a stagger each pair of screws by maybe 10mm or so? There seem to be concerns about joists splitting when screws are inserted in-line, although with pre-drilling I can't really imagine this would be a problem. And staggering sounds like a bit more work. What's the general recommendation please?

    Thanks, Sam.
    Again not sure about pine but i pilot drilled the whole length of screw as some here fear my old reclaimed HW joists would split. However straight line are easier and look better imho.

  3. #3
    Novice
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Default

    Thanks Bushy, your experiences are much appreciated! I hadn't thought about a drip-edge - makes sense, thanks for the tip!

    I have sent the 10 x 50 Scrooz back. They were very good about swapping them over for the 10 x 65!

    Sam

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Oct 2015
    Location
    Queensland
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    Default

    Good, best of luck.

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