Hire the best Decking Expert

Should I sand before Cutek

Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    3K Club Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Daylesford Australia
    Posts
    3,411

    Default Should I sand before Cutek

    Hi all. I've stopped hijacking another thread to ask this question.

    I have used Intergrain Nature's Timber Oil previously on my Golden Cypress decking. It lasted 4mths. Lots of direct weather.

    I would like to use Cutek CD50. When I spoke to a guy from the company he suggested sanding as the stripper product they sell requires a bit of PPE and may not be a simple method.

    I'm know wondering why he's suggesting a stripper when previous coating is an oil as is the Cutek stuff.

    Can I napisan it?

    Or

    Would sanding really be necessary?

    If so, that's ok just want the best outcome for the new product.

    One other thing, possibly not easy to answer. Anyone used walnut tint with Cutek CD50 on Golden Cypress? Wondering how that would look.

    Cheers, Su.

  2. #2
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    8,266

    Default

    If its oil based I would just napisan it off for sure.

  3. #3
    Flaccid Member - 1k Club Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Qld
    Posts
    1,239

    Default

    I'd also (and do myself) napisan, then oxalic acid it. If that doesn't bring it up new then it may need a sand but I usually only sand if needing to remove an acrylic coating or similar. I've only used the walnut on rough sawn hardwood and that comess up nice but I'd definately do a test piece first. Be keen to se the pics when done.....

  4. #4
    Golden Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Hope Island, QLD.
    Posts
    505

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    I would like to use Cutek CD50. When I spoke to a guy from the company he suggested sanding as the stripper product they sell requires a bit of PPE and may not be a simple method.
    Pardon my ignorance.... what does "PPE" stand for?


    walnut tint with Cutek CD50 on Golden Cypress?
    I normally start with the lightest tint (cedar?) -- on the principle that darkening tends to be more feasible than lightening...

  5. #5
    1K Club Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Age
    70
    Posts
    1,033

    Default

    Just to add a little more to the discusion. I would sand it as this will totaly expose a new layer of timber to be coated. You may find the napisan(sodium percarbonate) will dissolve the previous coating but no amount of napisan,scrubbing and high pressure blasting will reveal new timber. That is the starting position I get decks to before coating. I can sand a deck faster than high pressure cleaning one with a much better results and a whole lot less mess. You just need the right sanding gear. That is the biggest problem most people face.

    good luck

    jimj restore-a-deck

  6. #6
    Golden Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Hope Island, QLD.
    Posts
    505

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jimj View Post
    You just need the right sanding gear. That is the biggest problem most people face.
    If the boards are cupped, or slightly warped irregularly with respect to their neighbouring boards, do you always sand everything right down until you achieve a perfectly level surface across the entire deck? Or do you use some kind of soft sander that takes a layer off each board, but without sanding it right down level?

  7. #7
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    8,266

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by strangerep View Post
    Pardon my ignorance.... what does "PPE" stand for?



    I normally start with the lightest tint (cedar?) -- on the principle that darkening tends to be more feasible than lightening...

    PPE = personal protective equipment

  8. #8
    3K Club Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Daylesford Australia
    Posts
    3,411

    Default

    I get what your saying strangerep, about trying lighter colours first but I'm ok with dark and the colour of walnut has always been one I really like. Golden cypress when sanded is very pale to start with.

    jimj, I did sink quite a few scews too far and could remedy this with sanding if I sink the rest a bit further. I don't think there's a lot of cupping. Just one edge board is significantly raised due to different width perimeter bearer. It is past the handrail post anyway and so a big sander wouldn't be used in that spot.

    Regrading strangerep's question, what's the answer there?

    Would napisan cause staining of my shed below the deck when I rinse it off?? It's an acrylic paint, sort of a light coffee colour.

    I would like a pro to sand. Interested? It's approx 33sqm.

  9. #9
    1K Club Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Age
    70
    Posts
    1,033

    Default

    I never attempt to level the deck. That is generally achieved by intially sanding across the timber at 45degree angles like a giant X. This works well on inside timber but running a large 90 kg sander across cupped decking with gaps is like riding a bike over a cattle grid. With my large sander I only sand along with the grain. It is rare to remove all of the old surface. There is always old timber& coating left on various boards due to cupping or different levels. After using the big sander I have to sand out all of the other areas . I use a Festool Rotex 150mm orbital sander that is dust extracted. Most products and old timber can be sanded with 40-60 grit quality abrasives. The orbital sander will clean up well. I use the Festool medium soft pad . I have just sanded by hand 165 m2 of a 140mm wide South American timber called Tonka. It was too cupped to even use my big sander. The job to sand and apply 4 coats took 10 days. Was it fun NO! Achievable YES It turned out extremely well.

    jimj restore-a-deck

  10. #10
    1K Club Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Age
    70
    Posts
    1,033

    Default

    Sorry Shauck I didn't see your post. 33m2 sounds pretty good after the last deck I just finished yesterday. Would be happy to sand it if you can bring it to the Sunshine Coast. i guess it would be possible for the napisan to spot your acyrlic paint. Remember everyone using napisan makes up their own brew with various concentrations. Your metal roof may have been very hot. It is hard to say exactly. Sorry I couldn't me more informative.

    jimj

  11. #11
    3K Club Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Daylesford Australia
    Posts
    3,411

    Default

    Jeez I'm silly. Your nowhere near me. I can get a local guy to do this. Just wanted an excuse to meet.

  12. #12
    Novice
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    60
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Shauck, I have acrylic painted border around my deck, napisan cleaning has never bothered it, in fact it cleaned it. Just don't let the drips dry on it.

    Deck Clean (with oxylic acid) is another story, it marked the paint on the deck and the stainlees steel BBQ. I would cover the shed with a big tarp.

  13. #13
    Golden Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Hope Island, QLD.
    Posts
    505

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ringtail
    PPE = personal protective equipment
    Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by jimj
    I never attempt to level the deck. [...sanding method...Festool Rotex...]
    Thanks for the info. I had a feeling that "serious" sanding required "serious" gear.

    I don't have a Festool -- only a Hitachi with a 3rd-party pad (which has no holes in it, so not even a bag works). But maybe I'll try it on the smaller section of my deck while wearing a mask and see how it goes.

    Cheers.

  14. #14
    Flaccid Member - 1k Club Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Qld
    Posts
    1,239

    Default

    Sorry didnt read initial post that well. Agree with jimj, any previously coated deck = sand, or better yet, someone else sand while you stand watching with a beer. Napisan / oxalic only good for uncoated / weathered decks. I find Napisan generally doesn't stain but the oxalic acid stains like a biatch. Get it on any paintwork and be prepared to repaint.

  15. #15
    3K Club Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Daylesford Australia
    Posts
    3,411

    Default

    Maybe I'll stand round the corner with the beer so as not to upset the poor guy sanding. Thanks for all your replies. Lots of great info as usual. I was almost hoping that to sand was the right choice, now I can sort out the screw depth and my boards should last a bit longer.

Similar Threads

  1. to sand or not to sand...?
    By teela001 in forum Flooring
    Replies: 51
    Last Post: 19th Oct 2011, 04:00 PM
  2. Replies: 18
    Last Post: 13th Sep 2010, 04:00 PM
  3. Sand
    By an3_bolt in forum Brickwork
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 7th Sep 2010, 07:50 AM
  4. Plasterer's sand
    By memphis in forum Concreting
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 2nd Mar 2008, 06:48 PM
  5. Deck - To sand, or not to sand..?
    By Theremin in forum Decking
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 5th Aug 2007, 06:54 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •