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Spotted Gum choice

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  1. #1
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    Default Spotted Gum choice

    Hi there!

    A quick question.
    Spotted Gum decking material is available in 136/19 and 136/32
    Is it worth the extra money for the thicker one?
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

  2. #2
    Hwd Flooring Manufacturer glock40sw's Avatar
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    G'day.
    The width to thickness ratio is better with the thicker material.
    136x19 may tend to cup if weather exposed.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor
    Grafton

  3. #3
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    Hi Mr Glock, thank you for you reply.
    So 32mm is worth it.
    Do you supply decking material in this size? I am getting asked $10 and more for 136x32 SG. Some ask for $12 and I need some 550 m

    By the way I favour Colt Government model wide frame in 45 over the glock 40 every time, particularly with the extended barrel.
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

  4. #4
    TIMBER FLOOR CONTRACTOR Larry McCully's Avatar
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    By the way I favour Colt Government model wide frame in 45 over the glock 40 every time, particularly with the extended barrel.[/quote]
    WOW

  5. #5
    Hwd Flooring Manufacturer glock40sw's Avatar
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    45 long slide was too unwieldy for IPSC. The G35/40 was a very good size. 15 in the mag & 1 on the pipe. Fit Arredondo +2 pads and have 18 on the gun.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor
    Grafton

  6. #6
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    I like the balance and feel of a 45 Government Model, except when the hammer pinches your hand. ACP ammo is very gentle on the recoil and if you have a 6" barrel accuracy is very good. If you want magazine capacity the Llama .45 wide frame takes 13 rounds of 45ACP. It's not the LAR 45W Magnum but who wants that cannon for anyway?

    Ok, enough of the gun talk or we will scare the customers away.
    If I recall from your responses you are in the milling trade but in Queensland, right?

    Bottom line, I have to replace 15m x 5m treated pine deck boards and would like to have a nice hardwood deck.
    A) I like the wide boards.
    B) I like the nail/screw free look.
    C) Seen a few wide board decks that have cupped and 14 gage batten screws could not hold them down.

    1) You say 136 x 19mm may cup, go for 32mm. Fair enough will do. Is the idea of ripping a 5mm cut on the underside a good or bad idea?
    2) Any thoughts on a method of fixing the boards with no top nailing? The one comercialy available I have seen are on the flimsy side. I thought of cutting 2" pieces of L profile steel bar to screw from under the boards and to the side of the Joist.

    Any thoughts appreciated
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
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  7. #7
    Hwd Flooring Manufacturer glock40sw's Avatar
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    We are in Northern NSW and don't do wide decking.
    I know that Dale & Myers in Maryborough, QLD do a wide decking board out of Spotted Gum.

    As for fixing without nails or screws showing, I think you would be pushing Schit up-hill.

    Ask Utemad. he is the decking bloke.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor
    Grafton

  8. #8
    2x4
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    Any thoughts on a method of fixing the boards with no top nailing? The one comercialy available I have seen are on the flimsy side. I thought of cutting 2" pieces of L profile steel bar to screw from under the boards and to the side of the Joist.
    I too got excited over the no nail decking systems. But in the end I put it in the too hard and expensive basket.
    Went with square drive s/s screws instead. Was worried initially about the look, but once all the boards were down (800l/m + 4500 screws) it looked quite smart
    You may find that the oil / whatever you use, will also blend away the shiny screw heads


    Oh yeah......almost forgot




















    My personal favourite.
    I might be rough.....but at least I'm expensive

  9. #9
    Hwd Flooring Manufacturer glock40sw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2x4 View Post
    I
    Oh yeah......almost forgot
    My personal favourite.

    Mmmm.......Happiness is a warm beltfed
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor
    Grafton

  10. #10
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    OK, only speculating at this stage right?

    I realise that top screw or nail is the easy way. I have built my share of decks and done hand nailing and gun nailing so far. Never done the big 14g top screw or any other size for that matter and never the hidden fix.

    The attraction of hidden fix is that besides the looks, you have the option of sanding it. Perhaps not perfect since one would lose the pencil edge, but in a case of cupping or a very tired look, it would give a new lease of life. A chamfered edge could be achieved with a square stick and sandpaper if one wants it badly enough or even with a trimmer, a 45 degree bit and a guide to keep the cutter centred between the boards.

    Besides the idea of cutting little pieces L shaped and pre drilling them, I could fix L profile along the joists. This way I will need a lot fewer screws and holes to fix to the joist since one screw every second board is probably plenty.
    If I only pre drill one side the one that goes against the joist, I could then drill the two holes for each board as I go using a template. I first thought of pre drilling them both sides but I will never get the position of the holes right for the boards. Someone here said he had done it this way?

    I can imagine this will add some extra work and some more money for the L steel but it may be well worth the results.
    I have to keep an eye out for a good deal in hardwood. Greys online will be probably the place to start.
    e-bay has someone selling SG cheap but it turns out it is not dry and only rough sawn.

    PS
    My personal favourite is a Winchester lever action 1894 model in 3030 calibre and no scope. Unbeatable for short range pig hunting.
    Long range, Steyr-Mannlicher Stainless Synthetic 24"barrel in 308W
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

  11. #11
    Hwd Flooring Manufacturer glock40sw's Avatar
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    Parker-Hale 308Win or M17 25-06 Custom.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor
    Grafton

  12. #12
    Hammer Head - 1K Club Member
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    We are doing 7000m2 of 90mm decking with no top fixing;
    we tried a number of systems being
    deckmax
    architdeck
    Tiger claw TC1
    Prestige no nail

    In the end we went with prestige no nail, tiger claw TC1 came in second but is over $10.00m2 more expensive to buy. The deck max is to slow to install and the gaps between the boards vary.

    The prestige gives us a neat 5mm gap which happens to be required in a bush fire zone.

    The decking we are using is pre-grooved, but a router with slot cutter will make easy work of the 3.5mm grove required.

    I’ll take some pics in the New Year.<O</O
    <O</O

    PS the no nail fixings end up cheaper to buy then using 10g Stainless steel screws.

    http://www.nonaildeck.com.au/store/index.asp<O</O

  13. #13
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    Hi Gaza.
    Interesting product.

    I have some questions.
    You say you used pre grooved boards.
    - Does it mean that you have a 3.5 slot all along the edge?
    That can not be good long term if the deck is exposed. It would collect water and dirt galore (?)
    If one would use a biscuit jointer as suggested in their website, (I never used one) my question is,
    - can you cut the slot with the BJ over the joist or do you have to move the board to one side?
    If the BJ guide sticks out under the cutter more than the required 10mm, stopping you from slotting whilst in position on the joist, it would be a pain to mark and cut every slot in the exact place all along.
    - If you forget one cut you are screwed?
    Of course you could cut a longer slot to have a bit of room for adjustment and then end up with a lot of dirt and water pocket to spoil you deck.
    - If you have to adjust the size of the gap to correct for alignment, how do you get your boards closer ?
    - If you ever had to replace one board how would you do it?
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

  14. #14
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    Hey Marc,

    Have you decided on what you are going to oil the Spotted Gum with and if you need to weather it at all?

  15. #15
    Hammer Head - 1K Club Member
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    see answers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Hi Gaza.
    Interesting product.

    I have some questions.
    You say you used pre grooved boards.
    - Does it mean that you have a 3.5 slot all along the edge?
    That can not be good long term if the deck is exposed. It would collect water and dirt galore (?)

    i think it sgould be ok, our decks are inclosed so weather is not an issue.

    If one would use a biscuit jointer as suggested in their website, (I never used one) my question is,
    - can you cut the slot with the BJ over the joist or do you have to move the board to one side?
    If the BJ guide sticks out under the cutter more than the required 10mm, stopping you from slotting whilst in position on the joist, it would be a pain to mark and cut every slot in the exact place all along.

    biscut cutter shall do fine, you can pre-cut the slots using a jig if all your joists are at the same centers, which they should.

    - If you forget one cut you are screwed?
    Of course you could cut a longer slot to have a bit of room for adjustment and then end up with a lot of dirt and water pocket to spoil you deck.
    - If you have to adjust the size of the gap to correct for alignment, how do you get your boards closer ?

    You need to rip boards down which you will not notice. the gaps can be spaced out larger by a mm or so.

    - If you ever had to replace one board how would you do it?

  16. #16
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by russall View Post
    Hey Marc,

    Have you decided on what you are going to oil the Spotted Gum with and if you need to weather it at all?
    Hi Russall, early stages, haven't even bought the timber yet. SG is rather oily... I haven't thought about weathering before oiling yet. Knowing me, (ADD) I'll probably wait something like one day after finish.

    I suppose that oil should be clear something that lately is hard to come buy, all the decking oil seem to have tint even the "natural" one. I did my share of experimentation with making my own decking oil with some success. Use to buy boiled Linseed oil diluted 60/40 with turps first coat and 40/60 second coat, always with 1.5% terebene wipe off excess, and Bob is your uncle. Lately boiled Linseed oil is sold in medicine size bottles at astronomical prices. Must be the new fashion in Oxford street for rubbing their backside.

    I tried the raw linseed oil and it takes far too long to dry. I wonder how Tung oil would do on a deck in the open.
    I could boil my own oil with a steamer and a copper pipe...Nee forget it!

    Found this for whoever is interested in making his own decking oil.
    ALIS Decking Oil
    INGREDIENTS
    Linseed oil, wood oil, linseed oil - wood oil - stand oil, orange oil, Isoaliphates, linseed oil - stand oil -
    natural resin ester, earth - and mineral pigments and drying agents free of lead.

    I'm not sure whats the go with the grammar in this formula, but the ingredients are there for experimenting.

    We know what linseed oil is.

    Wood oil is Tung oil.

    Stand oil is a mixtrue of both linseed and tung oil boiled at high temperature, it would precipitate the oxidation process of the oil.

    Orange oil seems to be a bit of a luxury for a decking oil. Smell some lavander in stead.

    Isoaliphates are the tree hugger solvent of choice.
    So it seems that to our Linseed /Turps/ Terebene mixture all is required to improove it is some Tung oil and a mold retardant of some description. Mick told me once it's called mouldcheck or mouldguard.

    I havent seen Mick for some time now is he still aorund?
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

  17. #17
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    Hi Trevor.
    What do you think of cutting a V groove on the underside of a wide hardwood board to avoid cupping?
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

  18. #18
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    Thanks Marc, Good luck with your deck mate.

  19. #19
    Hwd Flooring Manufacturer glock40sw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Hi Trevor.
    What do you think of cutting a V groove on the underside of a wide hardwood board to avoid cupping?
    Would probably make it worse by creating a weak point as well as a moisture trap.

    Remember, the wet side will bend around the dry side. so, the wet lower face will cup up as the dryer upperface gets the sun.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor
    Grafton

  20. #20
    4K Club Member Marc's Avatar
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    OK, I do not intend to answer my own question, but there is some merit in grooves on the underside of wide boards, I just don't know if for decking floor material.

    If you build rustic furniture with cheap and thick wood, the only way to avoid cupping is by cutting the boards along the grain in a couple of places 1/3 of the thickness.

    I have installed several Jarra lintels 200 mm wide and cut grooves on the underside of them to avoid precisely what you describe. The underside does not get the benefit of the sun and tends to swell. If part of it is cut by the groove, it's swelling does not produce the cupping effect.
    Now I also know that old Ciprus pine floor boards use to have a V groove along the underside and I suppose it was for the same purpose. Not really sure. I've seen some with two V grooves.

    I intend to do some experimentation the following way:
    Get floorboard off cuts.
    Cut different depth V grooves, singe and double on one side and live some with no groove.
    Place some in a tray with some water groove down, others on concrete in the shade, some on dirt, some on concrete in the sun, others on timber in the sun.
    See what happens.
    Science is never settled,
    it advances one funeral at the time.
    Max Planck

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