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Stainless Decking Screws - which brand(s) to use

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  1. #1
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    Default Stainless Decking Screws - which brand(s) to use

    Hoping a can get some first hand advice on which brand of decking screws to look at for my little project I am about to start.

    I've seen screws ranging in price from $100 per 1000 to $1000 per 1000 and everything in between. I've heard stories of screws snapping causing all sorts of grief so I want to get a decent screw but as I need 2500 of them I really dont want to be paying $1 each either! I am fixing 85mm Jarrah boards into H3 Pine Joists.

    I was hoping to use a Torx style screw head and was considering the "Otter" DXES1050 or DXES1063 as a friend who is a fixing carpenter said he liked these (Reckons he has never had one snap)

    So can anyone in the know offer some advice on quality alternatives I should consider? (and possibly where to purchase)

    thanks

  2. #2
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    I would bet that screws snapping would be due to not drilling deep enough into hardwood joists. You are screwing into pine so....

  3. #3
    Novice Drboost's Avatar
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    Probably going to use bremick when I do my deck, used them in the past without issues so just a personal preference really.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by shauck View Post
    I would bet that screws snapping would be due to not drilling deep enough into hardwood joists. You are screwing into pine so....
    What she said Any screw will break if used beyond its limits. This is common with the use of power tools to

    install them. Have a practise before you start with some offcuts so you get your bit size , countersinking etc

    right before hand. Your friend has never had one snap because he is probably using them correctly

    Have a read through this threadhttp://www.renovateforum.com/f196/na...-again-101337/

  5. #5
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    Just completing a job and used POWERS Type 17 9ga Trim heads, in conjunction with #8 Smart Bit.

    These sit perfectly just below the surface and gave a very neat job, from an angle you cannot see the screws as the heads are so small so the deck looks fastener free.

    Overall the screws were good to work with, and at a good price, next time would like to try the TORX head as the square drive can slip off if the driver is not in 100%, but when this happened we just reversed it out and used a new one, I blame the driver bit more than the screw.

    Only happened for about 20 of them, which was not bad considering there was around 2000 used for the job, see pic below of how the heads sit, this is an actual picture from the job.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails trim-heads.jpg  

  6. #6
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    Always music to my ears to hear screws being put in and countersunk as well instead of &&^%##** nails. Regardless of the construction,species of timber or coating applied, the deck will reach a time where it will need tarting up. Sooner in the sun ,longer in the shade. In most cases the best starting position is to begin with a newly exposed timber only surface. As much as the paint companies try to convince the consumer that this is easily achieved with oxalic acid,sodium percarbonate& strippers it is often fraught with a poorer strarting position.

    For every 10 decks I visit and inspect 8 of them have issues with raised nail heads or screws sitting proud or flush. None of these ddecks can be sanded until these issues are addressed.

    I am a huge fan of the torx drive as they seen to handle being installed with less damage to the driver or the slot of the screw. There are a number of nice stainless screws out there. I have been using the Spax-d screw. They are sold here for 29cents per 50mm screw. They have a nice drill bit that is 4.5 mm diameter finishing at the top to 6.5mm. This drill the correct hole for the screw and leaves a 6.5mm hole several mm below the surface for the head to drop nicely into.

    There are many variables and combos to play with. Excellent advice to practice with scrap until you are comfortable with your methodology.

    Geez almost felt myself lasping into another rant but held back. Please after installing sand off the burrs standing(if any) with a quick 80 grit. I would go one step further and sand off the entire deck to 80 grit. This is fast and easy even with a small cheap orbital. If you just sand off the burrs you can have around every screw it looking lighter than the rest of the deck once coated. Better to have a totally uniform result

    best of luck

    jimj restore-a-deck

  7. #7
    Senior Member ScroozAdmin's Avatar
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    Check these new babies out, we're just launching them today, we've been working on them a long time and results have been excellent as is the price. They are designed for users who don't want to use stainless for strength reasons but still want good corrosion protection instead of gal. click the link to watch the movie Scrooz RazrDeck Hiload Ceramic Coated Decking Screws
    www.scrooz.com.au

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldie1 View Post
    Thanks all for the replies. The thread above certainly seems a good case for the Otters (which were my initial choice) I also had a look on the Scrooz website after reading another old post on here and see they have the Fisher brand (German made?) with a Torx head also

    I'm now tossing up between these 2

    Otters which are 316 Stainless @ about $280 per 1000 - Otter 316 Stainless Steel Hardwood Decking Screws 10G x 50mm Box of 500

    OR

    Fishers which are 304 Stainless @ about $190 per 1000 - Fischer Stainless Steel Star Drive Torx 20 Decking Screws from Scrooz Online Screws Fasteners and Tools 10g x 50mm


    From what I understand 316 Stainless is stronger (and the Tests form the link above seem to prove they are strong) so leaning slightly that way this morning (last night was leaning to the Fishers)

    Tonight after 6 beers who knows

  9. #9
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScroozAdmin View Post
    Check these new babies out, we're just launching them today, we've been working on them a long time and results have been excellent as is the price. They are designed for users who don't want to use stainless for strength reasons but still want good corrosion protection instead of gal. click the link to watch the movie Scrooz RazrDeck Hiload Ceramic Coated Decking Screws
    Personally I don't like the 10g head these are too big, and make too much a feature of the screw.

    I am also not a fan of no predrilling, it destroys the entry hole leaving a jagged entry point as can be seen in your video.

    For high end decks this would not be accepted, if you look at my above picture you will see a clean entry hole with no jagged bits, and a small head sitting just below the surface.

    My preference is Stainless Steel as you know it will still be good in many years, TORX is the way of the future screws if you ask me, plus if you sand over these screws you are bound to remove the armor coating and cause the heads to start rusting, not a good look.

  10. #10
    Je pense, donc METRIX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimj View Post
    Please after installing sand off the burrs standing(if any) with a quick 80 grit. I would go one step further and sand off the entire deck to 80 grit. This is fast and easy even with a small cheap orbital. If you just sand off the burrs you can have around every screw it looking lighter than the rest of the deck once coated. Better to have a totally uniform result

    best of luck

    jimj restore-a-deck
    Excellent advice, we sand them as we go using a bit of 120 pinned around a small decking offcut,it makes the finished job very neat.

  11. #11
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    I only use spax now - best I've found in recent times. ps you get what you pay for

  12. #12
    Senior Member ScroozAdmin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metrix Building View Post
    Personally I don't like the 10g head these are too big, and make too much a feature of the screw.
    Sure, it's all personal preference, I don't mind myself, depending on the size of the deck, but we do have a trimhead version, which is very popular, for customers who aren't keen.

    Quote Originally Posted by Metrix Building View Post
    I am also not a fan of no predrilling, it destroys the entry hole leaving a jagged entry point as can be seen in your video.
    Correct, that's why we still clearly recommend countersinking on the product page, no screw will create the same finish as a well cut csk as underhead ribs just rub and push the timber away not cutting and removing it like a csk.

    The movie is designed to show the strength, if we'd countersunk the board first someone would pipe up that probably cheated and predrilled it to.

    Quote Originally Posted by Metrix Building View Post

    plus if you sand over these screws you are bound to remove the armor coating and cause the heads to start rusting, not a good look.
    Also correct which is why we make a clear point on the product page that it is just a coating and not as corrosion resistant as stainless steel from which the whole screw is made.

    We're not trying to say these are a replacement for stainless just an alternative. They are designed to be a stronger replacement for standard Galv, which is basically rubbish, but still sell in massive quantities, so given the customer will be getting a far stronger fastener that lasts 6 times longer and that you can use with any treated timber (ACQ or CCA) at the same price, it's a pretty good deal I'd say.
    www.scrooz.com.au

  13. #13
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    I'm no expert but when I did my hardwood deck, I went and bought some pretty expensive ones - $90 for 250 (super shinny) They are 316 stainless and have a small head.

    What I found:

    1. Stainless snap quite easily. Really need to drill deep enough and also use soapy water.
    2. Once I oiled them, I couldn't tell the difference between quality. I could have used cheaper ones and no-one would notice.
    3. If you're doing pine, I think pine specific ones are cheaper.
    4. I've been told that bigger heads have better holding power. Don't quote me on this...

  14. #14
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    I just build a deck using the same size jarrah onto TP joists.

    Used about 2000 screws and only snapped one screw and rounded off half a dozen. I'd say these due to my laziness.

    I used Macsim s/s 10g trim heads with macsims clever tool. Worked a treat and highly recommend.

    It's all about applying the correct pressure on the impact driver and Torque/speed.

  15. #15
    Apprentice (new member) spaxpacific's Avatar
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    I would urge everyone to try SPAX screws for your next deck. It has a TORX drive and will exceed any other screw in all the aforementioned problems such as snapping screws, ease of use and attractiveness of finished job. They're all German made from virgin stainless steel so you can be sure you are getting quality. As others have said in the forum, once you try it you won't go back. You can see our range at www.spaxpacific.com

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by spaxpacific View Post
    I would urge everyone to try SPAX screws for your next deck. It has a TORX drive and will exceed any other screw in all the aforementioned problems such as snapping screws, ease of use and attractiveness of finished job. They're all German made from virgin stainless steel so you can be sure you are getting quality. As others have said in the forum, once you try it you won't go back. You can see our range at SPAX Screws Australia Stainless steel screws for timber & decking

    I was wondering where I can buy these?

  17. #17
    Apprentice (new member) spaxpacific's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr renovator View Post
    I was wondering where I can buy these?
    You can find your closest retailer on our store locator at www.spaxpacific.com/locator.html

    If you are in Queensland please call 0419 028 764 to find your closest seller.

  18. #18
    4K Club Member ringtail's Avatar
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    Fischer screws all day for me. Tried them all and they win hands down ( for me). Haven't tried the new ones from scrooz but I have no need, I'll stick to the fischers. Have never broken one and have never rounded one either.

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