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Terrys multi-level low level Deck step by step, work in progress

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  1. #51
    Apprentice (new member)
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    Terry or anyone, what did you use for the pre-drilling to get the angled area where the screw head goes into the merbau?

  2. #52
    terryB
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Melbourne
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    Default Smartbit

    Hi, I used a no 8 SmartBit

    Starborn Industries, Inc. @|@ SMART-BIT® @|@ The Pre-Drilling and Countersinking Tool for Decks and Woodworking
    http://www.macsim.com.au/Products/Tools/smart_bit_drills.php

    I see you are in Malvern east closest would be to go to Bowens in Oakleigh...phone ahead they were running low last time I was there.

    If you want to buy online give ScruffyDoo a crack @ Online hardware, fasteners, tools, bolts and screws at wholesale prices for trade and DIY

    The SmartBit is idiot proof you will not be sorry.

    Goodluck.
    Terry

  3. #53
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    Hey Terry - great looking deck, and great post. I have a couple of questions:

    How did you cut your posts 'in situ' so they all aligned perfectly for your bearers? I've always struggled.

    Why use the small yellow wedges at the ends of each joist where they join the bearers?

    Keep up the good work!

    Cheers.

  4. #54
    terryB
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    Aug 2007
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    Default Cutting posts

    Quote Originally Posted by Stu_W View Post
    Hey Terry - great looking deck, and great post. I have a couple of questions:

    How did you cut your posts 'in situ' so they all aligned perfectly for your bearers? I've always struggled.

    Why use the small yellow wedges at the ends of each joist where they join the bearers?

    Keep up the good work!

    Cheers.
    Hi Stu, thanks

    Not sure I understand the question but I will have a go anyway. I bolted the stirrups then bolted the posts to the stirrups trying my best to get it all lined up but not super critical to be millimeter perfect at this point

    To get the path of the bearer correct or its supporting notch I just ran a string line across the top of all the posts. Picture should give you a rough idea.



    Then check the string along its length to make sure it is parallel with whatever line you have decided is the master...in my case that is the house. Grab a pencil and mark off the string line which now give you the horizontal (or the depth of the notch). Next is the horizontal, I simply clamped a straight piece of timber the same size as my bearer (or actual bearer) to the posts. Now just keep fiddling with the clamped bearer until you are happy it is level and the correct height. Remembering to take into account that you may have joists on or in between your bearers plus decking on top of that...dont forget.

    And please dont do what I did TWICE I put the outside bearer on the wrong side of the post. Not a crisis for some designs but if you want a surround board and facia you need the bearers or joists on the outside of the posts to simplify your life and save wood.

    As for the wedges please ignore that, that was just me being pedantitic and stupid. There were a few joists butting into the bearers with gaps around 3mm as the bearer had twisted off plumb at some point in the process. I was just trying to make it perfect...I did not realise that by hamering in the wedges all I was doing was stretching the joist hangar in the process and making more of a mess. Always better just to cut the wood with care the first time round.

    Cheers
    Terry

    PS: The images in this post also show a bit of what I was doing. I dont in any way vouch for this being the way to go about it...there has to be an easier way.

  5. #55
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    Cheers Terry, comprehensive answer (as always), but it was the next bit I was keen on hearing about - actually making the horizontal cuts. Handsaw or Circular saw with guide?

    Cheers.

  6. #56
    Old Chippy 6K
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stu_W View Post
    Cheers Terry, comprehensive answer (as always), but it was the next bit I was keen on hearing about - actually making the horizontal cuts. Handsaw or Circular saw with guide?

    Cheers.
    Generally easier to use the string line running between profiles or temporary stakes at each end, get the height and level tight (string line level is useful or the old water hose level) then simply measure down from line to bottom of bracket for each one. That way you then cut the lengths just once and can clamp the long piece you are cutting from and use a normal down cutting action or a drop saw or whatever. Should be cut a little shy of the finish height - bearers can sit higher than the posts, but it's a bugger to have to trim off the posts if too high. If you own one and are competent a chain saw is OK for this sort of stuff - never gunna be seen until it gets demolished!

    BTW - Great deck and although not always the preferred way of doing things a helpful thread for others - the end result is what is important not how you do it so much!
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

  7. #57
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    Cheers Bloss

    Again, a comprehensive answer. I'm more concerned with posts set in concrete. Agree there is less concern about the tops of the posts for a deck and a chainsaw will suffice, it's more where a rebate is to be cut for posts cast in situ - what's the best method? Is it worth doing? or will a couple of well placed galv bolts take the strain?

    I hope this (slight) deviation is useful to all - rather than a blatant post hijack!

  8. #58
    Old Chippy 6K
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stu_W View Post
    Cheers Bloss

    Again, a comprehensive answer. I'm more concerned with posts set in concrete. Agree there is less concern about the tops of the posts for a deck and a chainsaw will suffice, it's more where a rebate is to be cut for posts cast in situ - what's the best method? Is it worth doing? or will a couple of well placed galv bolts take the strain?

    I hope this (slight) deviation is useful to all - rather than a blatant post hijack!
    best to start your own thread, but for a low deck checking out isn't all that necessary - good gal bolts are fine - min M10 (3/8").
    Advice from me on this forum is general and for guidance based on information given by the member posing the question. Not to be used in place of professional advice from people appropriately qualified in the relevant field. All structural work must be approved and constructed to the BCA or other relevant standards by suitably licensed persons. The person doing the work and reading my advice accepts responsibility for ensuring the work done accords with the applicable law.

  9. #59
    terryB
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    Default Cutting posts

    Quote Originally Posted by Stu_W View Post
    Cheers Bloss

    Again, a comprehensive answer. I'm more concerned with posts set in concrete. Agree there is less concern about the tops of the posts for a deck and a chainsaw will suffice, it's more where a rebate is to be cut for posts cast in situ - what's the best method? Is it worth doing? or will a couple of well placed galv bolts take the strain?

    I hope this (slight) deviation is useful to all - rather than a blatant post hijack!
    Hi Stu,

    I gave it a go with the circular saw but I have a GMC which is a copy of the DEWALT and is huge and cumbersome so I was not to successful. In the end I bought the best saw I could find for the job from Bunnings and cut it by hand, worked a treat and went much quicker than I expected. Cutting the vertical (ripping) the saw did follow the grain a bit, but seriously a mill here or there means nothing once you bolt it tight you will never know.

  10. #60
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    Better than any DIY book on how to build a deck - inspiring!

  11. #61
    terryB
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    Greetings all,

    I got the go ahead from the boss to finally put a roof on her. The deck for the most part of summer even in Melbourne is totally un-inhabitable during the day so the roof was essential. I decided to engage Pergolas-R-Us for the task and for the most part I have been happy with the job. They knocked up this frame in less that a day....sweet!!!




    PS: Excuse the abuse of the floor I have yet to oil her this season. Yikes Feast-Watson up to $200 a tine now!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_1811.jpg  

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